This was longer than I planned, but hopefully I covered most of the front loaded questions.
I've been a long time lurker (and TFP method follower) but this is my first post, and I'm undertaking a complete pad redo. I've done the occasional pipe repair, which worked well, but this is the first time I'm doing it all. I'd rather teach myself and learn through doing, than pay someone, so I'd appreciate any feedback on my layout choices and decisions.
This is coming to a head as the pump is leaking from the top (previous home owner appeared to have used sealant as a temp fix), costs $$ to run 24/7 in the winter, the pump is old and loud, the filter leaks and the bottom plug is fused, and I want to transition to a SWG! Of note you will see a heater - that is currently a rodent haven and I am removing, but not replacing.
A few facts:
18-20k Pool
Elevated Spa
North Texas (why is it so Dang cold atm!)
Pool and Spa Lights (controlled via wifi smart switch)
This is the current pool pad:
Equipment:
Intelliflo3 3HP
RJ60+ SWG
Crystal Water Waterway 425 Cartridge Filter (saw good reviews on here)
Plan:
Electrical - Will replace the current 2 gang box with one that isn't held together by electrical tape, and replace existing switches that have broken plastic and metal exposed!
Pump - The intent is for the pump to run 24/7, at the lowest RPM needed to maintain flow for the SWG. As such, it will be directly wired to a switch removing both the timer and freeze protection. Ideally, I would want 240v smart switch that I could remotely shut off, if needed, and at the same time notify me if it goes offline (and indicates a problem) - but it seems most smart switches/plugs are 110v (research continues).
SWG - As above, RJ60+ running as low % as possible, to maintain chlorine levels. I am really looking forward to this, as my wife has had enough of my 'nice' clothes being covered in bleach spots.... As far as protection, it comes with a flow value to shut off in the event of reduced flow, and will be on the same circuit as the pump. Would this seem sufficient? I guess the risk is both the pump fails and the flow sensor fails, at the same time?
Filter - seems simple. May change to a 30lb reader due to low flow levels, but we can see.
Pipework - This is the interesting part. Basically, it all needs to be redone as the pump inlet is higher than the current pump, and there just isn't room to cut and adjust. I'm thinking the current setup seems fine but will likely put a two way Jandy value on the spa 'in' and then replace the current three way with a two way Jandy - unless otherwise suggested. On the out, will keep the current structure but will add a check value on the spa - the spa is elevated and when the pump is off, it drains backwards into the pool ands plaster is exposed.
Some thoughts in my head:
1) It is worth going up to 2.5inch pipe for the pad, even if the pool piping is 2inch. Does this help reduce head (that is friction, right) within the pad equipments and turns?
2) The SWG can run at 110v, and therefore can be wired into a 110v smart switch - is there any downside to this?
3) Post filter, the water goes 50/50 into the spa and the pool - is there any risk here of over chlorinating the spa (which waterfalls into the pool).
4) Any need for a flowmeter?
5) Am I a buffoon for attempting this?
Thanks, and again sorry for reading this essay.
Ash
I've been a long time lurker (and TFP method follower) but this is my first post, and I'm undertaking a complete pad redo. I've done the occasional pipe repair, which worked well, but this is the first time I'm doing it all. I'd rather teach myself and learn through doing, than pay someone, so I'd appreciate any feedback on my layout choices and decisions.
This is coming to a head as the pump is leaking from the top (previous home owner appeared to have used sealant as a temp fix), costs $$ to run 24/7 in the winter, the pump is old and loud, the filter leaks and the bottom plug is fused, and I want to transition to a SWG! Of note you will see a heater - that is currently a rodent haven and I am removing, but not replacing.
A few facts:
18-20k Pool
Elevated Spa
North Texas (why is it so Dang cold atm!)
Pool and Spa Lights (controlled via wifi smart switch)
This is the current pool pad:
Equipment:
Intelliflo3 3HP
RJ60+ SWG
Crystal Water Waterway 425 Cartridge Filter (saw good reviews on here)
Plan:
Electrical - Will replace the current 2 gang box with one that isn't held together by electrical tape, and replace existing switches that have broken plastic and metal exposed!
Pump - The intent is for the pump to run 24/7, at the lowest RPM needed to maintain flow for the SWG. As such, it will be directly wired to a switch removing both the timer and freeze protection. Ideally, I would want 240v smart switch that I could remotely shut off, if needed, and at the same time notify me if it goes offline (and indicates a problem) - but it seems most smart switches/plugs are 110v (research continues).
SWG - As above, RJ60+ running as low % as possible, to maintain chlorine levels. I am really looking forward to this, as my wife has had enough of my 'nice' clothes being covered in bleach spots.... As far as protection, it comes with a flow value to shut off in the event of reduced flow, and will be on the same circuit as the pump. Would this seem sufficient? I guess the risk is both the pump fails and the flow sensor fails, at the same time?
Filter - seems simple. May change to a 30lb reader due to low flow levels, but we can see.
Pipework - This is the interesting part. Basically, it all needs to be redone as the pump inlet is higher than the current pump, and there just isn't room to cut and adjust. I'm thinking the current setup seems fine but will likely put a two way Jandy value on the spa 'in' and then replace the current three way with a two way Jandy - unless otherwise suggested. On the out, will keep the current structure but will add a check value on the spa - the spa is elevated and when the pump is off, it drains backwards into the pool ands plaster is exposed.
Some thoughts in my head:
1) It is worth going up to 2.5inch pipe for the pad, even if the pool piping is 2inch. Does this help reduce head (that is friction, right) within the pad equipments and turns?
2) The SWG can run at 110v, and therefore can be wired into a 110v smart switch - is there any downside to this?
3) Post filter, the water goes 50/50 into the spa and the pool - is there any risk here of over chlorinating the spa (which waterfalls into the pool).
4) Any need for a flowmeter?
5) Am I a buffoon for attempting this?
Thanks, and again sorry for reading this essay.
Ash
