Cloudy Water

[puppycrack]

So I opened my pool to clear water a month ago. Everything was doing fine, clear water, good chemistry, and then we had a week or so of colder weather. I covered with a solar cover for four days, and when I uncovered, cloudy water. Also, rust colored substance all around the pool floor. The pump runs ~10 hours each day (3h on high speed, 7h on low speed).

Note by cloudy, I can see the main drains, but could definitely not see if a quarter was heads or tails. I'd say it's is a 7-8 out of 10 in clarity.

So I vacuumed with the pole and vacuum head, then threw in the Dolphin s300. The Dolphin has been going 3-5 hrs a day, with the pump usually at high speed most of the day. Pool has been uncovered during daylight hours these past few days. Yesterday, I pulled my filter cartridges and cleaned them after cleaning them 1 month ago. They were pretty dirty, but not as bad as I've seen previously.

Now, it *is* cottonwood season here, and I could skim 24x7 when the solar cover is off. I have skimmer socks that get changed 1-2x per day. But I can't seem to get the water to clear.

Chemistry as of an hour ago:
FC=7 (just added 1/2 gal of 12.5%)
CC: .7 (after one drop, it was a very very faint pink, so I guessed .7, as it was definitely not 1.0)
PH: 7.7
TA: 80
CYA: 35

The PH has gone up from 7.4 to 7.7 in the past 2 days, so that's kind of weird, but may be b/c of relatively high FC levels? I passed an OCLT test last night with zero CL loss, and nothing seems to be eating CL anymore than usual. Can anyone offer any insight into why my pool isn't clear? Is it just the cottonwood and organics that my filter can't keep up with?

Below is the last 18 days of chemistry history for those interested.

Thank you,
-pc

 

[puppycrack]

I thought I'd add that the tests were done using a TF100 test kit that was purchased a couple of weeks ago, but that isn't entirely true. To throw another monkey wrench into things:

I was using the FAS DPD CL test, but using the powder I had from last season (Taylor R-0870 - use by date of 6/2020), and the drops from the TF100 kit. When I test w/ that, I get FC at 7. However, when I run the FC/CC tests with all TF100 reagents, I get FC=5.5 and CC at just above zero (very very faint pink after 5 drops of the R-0003). I've been suspect of the CC results b/c I was using a year old expired R-0003 b/c I thought it didn't matter, but I'm thinking thats a no-no to use expired reagents.

I'm assuming I should throw away the Taylor powder, even though it's not expired? Maybe my chemistry has been screwy and I didn't even know it?

FWIW: my PH tests were performed using unexpired non TF100 reagents, but the TA test have reagents that have an expiry of 2/2020. So I'll definitely be throwing away all expired reagents.

Thanks,
-pc

 

[IceShadow]

I’d do a little mini-slam for a day or so and see if it clears up. I had the same thing when removing my new solar cover after it was on a good week and it cleared right up.

 

[puppycrack]

I’d do a little mini-slam for a day or so and see if it clears up. I had the same thing when removing my new solar cover after it was on a good week and it cleared right up.

I've brought it up to SLAM levels this morning just to see, and since it can't really hurt. But considering I've passed the OCLT two days in a row now (passed last night as well), wouldn't that mean that there are no organics in the pool for which a SLAM would be necessary?

 

[puppycrack]

I went to the pool store to pick up a new wall whale brush, and decided to see what they said my water chem was, and their recommendations. Their #s:

FC: 7.5 (* I tested the exact same water sample at 11.5 using FAS/DPD test)
pH: 7.8
TA: 83
CYA: 34
Hardness: 89
Phosphate: 554

Their recommendations were three fold:
1) Add muriatic to lower pH
2) Add 12 or so pounds of Calcium Chloride to increase hardness
3) Add PHOSfree to lower phosphates

Now I think my pH is a tad high, but their reading I think is higher than it actually is, b/c of my high FC levels. I mentioned that I have read numerous places that Calcium isn't needed in vinyl pools, and all they could rebut with is "That's false". And as for the phosphates, well, I still have a bottle of the PHOSfree from a prior closing, but I'm just not sure about adding that stuff.

Thoughts on any or all of the above pool store recommendations?

Many thanks,
-pc

 

[puppycrack]

The pool is a little clearer today. Last night, I lost 0.5 FC - so 3 days in a row passing OCLT. My question is, is the fact that FC is currently at shock level contributing to the clarity improvement, or is it just the fact I've been running the pump 24x7? I know the wisdom goes you keep SLAMing until you:

pass OCLT
have CC < 0.5
water is clear

But if I continually pass the 1st two, do I need to keep up the SLAM, or just keep running my pump?

Thanks,
-pc

 

[puppycrack]

Pool is now crystal clear w/ SLAM and running the pump 24x7. My question still stands, however. Was a SLAM necessary in this event? My OCLT was passing every night, and my CC was < 0.5 at all times. Did the extra CL do anything, or was it all my pump / filtration system? I'd like to know for next time, so I don't unnecessarily pour CL/$$$ down the drain. Can anyone comment?

 

[IceShadow]

First, the pool store wants to sell you things. You can ignore them.

If you see algae you SLAM. A little cloudiness - maybe algae maybe not. Who knows? But chlorine isn’t that expensive so better safe than sorry - I would have done the same thing in your shoes.

 

[puppycrack]

Thanks IceShadow. I do tend to ignore the pool store based on comments from this forum, but thought I'd see what others (including you) thought. Your comment about "seeing algae" still has me wondering though. Is it algae if the CC is consistently < 0.2 and OCLT tests are passing every day, or is it a lack of filtration due to a large load of organics / "Crud" in the pool that requires more filtration? While CL is fairly cheap (it cost < $20 in additional CL this time), I'd rather have that $20 in my pocket if not necessary .