cloudy water - not free floating DE and the pH is good - what next?

[gh0st]

Opened the pool last week so it's time for my yearly post. Everything was going well and on the second morning the water got milky.

At first I thought it was DE. I turned the filter off to let things settle...and they never did. I took the filter apart to inspect the grids and I found a tiny hole and a pinched o-ring, but nothing as extreme like the last time I had DE in the pool.

I checked the pH because I've read that can cause issues with cloudy water and it was off the charts. At this point I stopped adding chlorine. Over the next two days I got it back down to acceptable range, but the water is still cloudy.

I checked the calcium and it's at 50.

I have flocculant, but figured I would use that as a last resort. Is there anything else I should try before that?

 

[Mendy48]

Hello gt.

You want to make sure your filter is running 24/7 and is on filter and not "re-circulate".

Also, with a pinched o-ring on your filter, you may need to get that fixed (I'll let an expert chime in on that). Nevertheless, have you SLAM your pool yet? Please see this link SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

Calcium Hardness of 50 is not bad (range 0-350 don't add). You have a vinyl pool so you're fine.

With that said, what are your numbers/results for the following:


FC - Free Chlorine
CC - Combined Chlorine
PH - Acidity/Basicity
TA - Total Alkalinity
CH - Calcium Hardness = 50
CYA - Cyanuric Acid

(ABC’s of Pool Water Chemistry)

I'll let an expert chime in on the flocculant. I just know that all you need to stick to is Chlorine & CYA (stabilizer). Muriatic Acid and Borax to manage PH on a periodic basis as needed.

 

[gh0st]

The filter was on and running. I fixed the filter grid and o-ring. I "SLAMed" it the first 2 days. I gave up to address the issue with the cloudyness. pH is about 7.6 right now. I only tested the calcium because of the cloudyness. I'd have to test the rest of those tonight, but haven't heard of any of them causing cloudy/milky water.

 

[Mendy48]

If your FC is above 10ppm, you're pH reading won't be accurate. When did you take your pH reading?

2 days of slamming is new and cloudiness is expected (dead algae). It can easily take a week or more for the SLAM to be complete. The length of your SLAM is dependent upon your diligence in maintaining the FC level. What is your current CYA? Nevertheless, continue brushing, vacuuming, etc. Regardless, it still takes time. Consistency is more important.

Another thing, it will take time to filter all the dead algae out, so keep SLAMing. Vacuum and brush... try to move slowly so you don't stir up too much debris. When you brush, you're loosening up the dead algae. The dead algae will then be picked up by the filter. With consistent maintenance (SLAMing) you'll be fine before you know it.

How does your pool look like now? Can you take a picture.

Again what is your CYA level and what are you using for your FC Shock level?

 

[gh0st]

The FC was probably 0 when I took the pH reading. Ok, I'll keep at it, this is different from the past 4 years I've done this. I'm having a hard time imagining it taking the filter this long to clean stuff up. Hopefully it's that simple. Thanks for your input

 

[Mendy48]

Have you tried backwashing (if you have that option, which I'm sure you do)? Note: backwashing helps clean your filter after it's collected dirt and debris from your pool. TFP recommendation is to backwash the filter when the pressure rises 25% above the clean pressure. Check your pressure gauge. You may need to backwash.

 

[aussieta]

whoa there with the backwashing, ghost has a de filter
when you say ph was off the chart, high or low
a full set of results will help, including water temp where you are

 

[Mendy48]

good to know..learn something new everyday..didn't know DE filters couldn't backwash..

whoa there with the backwashing, ghost has a de filter
when you say ph was off the chart, high or low
a full set of results will help, including water temp where you are

 

[gh0st]

FC=0
pH=7.5
CH=50
TA=50
CYA=0

When I said the pH was off the charts, it was too high. I ran the filter all last night. Backwashed the filter this morning and it's been running for 13 hours now. Maybe it looks better? I'm attaching an image. There is a pattern on my liner that should be visible, but it's not

 

[aussieta]

you need some liquid chlorine/bleach asap
and need some cya .when you are sure fc is holding for 30 minutes

 

[gh0st]

you need some liquid chlorine/bleach asap
and need some cya .when you are sure fc is holding for 30 minutes

I've been shocking the pool for a few nights in a row with no change. I understand the FC is zero right now, that's because I took the reading during the day. With zero CYA I dont bother adding chlorine during the day because it burns off too fast. Chlorine has not helped this situation.

 

[aussieta]

you shock at night, kill some algae and then let it grow more the next day, you will never win that way
test your fc,
if zero add enough to bring up to 10, then with pump running retest in 30 minutes, if less than fc 5ppm fc add enough to bring up to 10ppm and keep repeating every 30 minutes until fc starts to hold
if you have any fc reading, add enough to bring up to 10 and add cya aiming for cya 30ppm
then keep testing fc every few hours and bring up to 12ppm