Good Day, I will be putting my pool to sleep for the winter very soon and in the past I went to my local pool store and bought the kit they said I needed, just wondering what this forum can suggest I need to do. Thank-you
Closing Pool Chemicals
- Thread starter Kpare
- Start date
Take the generic kit back and post up your pool chemistry #s so we can see what you actually need, and avoid the likely harmful products in the pool store kit. 
jdsaengine
Well-known member
Last fall we closed our new pool for the first time. The pool company said to buy the pool store kit to keep their warranty in force. We did and when we opening this spring the pool was crystal clear.
All season we did our own testing and chemical control per TFP. But for our closing this year I said , "what the heck" the pool kit worked last year, might as well do it again. I know TFP says to forget it.
All season we did our own testing and chemical control per TFP. But for our closing this year I said , "what the heck" the pool kit worked last year, might as well do it again. I know TFP says to forget it.
Post a picture of the kit, In most cases, it's simply not needed. Also, you tend to end up paying for things that you don't need, or overpaying for things you probably already have in another form. Obviously, if your pool warranty is dependent on adding the kit, then thats a different conversation
Generally you don't need to add much of anything to a well maintained pool at closing. Some people like to add an algaecide as insurance, and the recommendation here is generally Polyquat as it is not copper based, but even that isn't really 'necessary' in cooler climates as long as your water at closing is below about 60F. Copper based algaecides can lead to staining, and the dreaded green-hair issues. Once they are in the water, it's very difficult to get them out again. I closed my pool last year just by bringing my FC a little above normal, and that was it. The water temp was well under 60F, and the mesh cover was on. This spring, the water was crystal clear, and I still had some measurable FC in the pool. I added no shock, algaecides, clarifiers or anything - this was like the day after I soft-opened (the heater wasn't on yet). The deep end is 8Ft...
Generally you don't need to add much of anything to a well maintained pool at closing. Some people like to add an algaecide as insurance, and the recommendation here is generally Polyquat as it is not copper based, but even that isn't really 'necessary' in cooler climates as long as your water at closing is below about 60F. Copper based algaecides can lead to staining, and the dreaded green-hair issues. Once they are in the water, it's very difficult to get them out again. I closed my pool last year just by bringing my FC a little above normal, and that was it. The water temp was well under 60F, and the mesh cover was on. This spring, the water was crystal clear, and I still had some measurable FC in the pool. I added no shock, algaecides, clarifiers or anything - this was like the day after I soft-opened (the heater wasn't on yet). The deep end is 8Ft...
Whynotme
Well-known member
- Jul 1, 2024
- 51
- Pool Size
- 8800
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Autopilot Digital Nano+ PPC2
This will be my first winter closing on my own, and I've been tormenting myself deciding what to add for closing. I've decided to increase my FC to around 20 for a couple days, turn off the SWG and let it drift back down a little then add the recommended amount of Polyquat 60. That's it. Fingers crossed it's still clear in the spring.
jdsaengine
Well-known member
The pool kit I just got has a can of dry shock I mix and throw in and then a bottle of "Bioguard Artic blue Alge Protector" No clue if it has copper in it. I guess I should look at the label.
Right now my pool FC is around 10 and today and tomorrow will be the last day to swim, then closing Oct 22.
Not sure if my water temp will be down to 60 by closing as temps around here for the next 10 days will be 70's during the day a and high 50's at night.
Right now my pool FC is around 10 and today and tomorrow will be the last day to swim, then closing Oct 22.
Not sure if my water temp will be down to 60 by closing as temps around here for the next 10 days will be 70's during the day a and high 50's at night.
Well yeah, especially if you want to recommend others use it. What's in the "dry shock" and what do you mean you mixed it and threw it in?
jdsaengine
Well-known member
I was not really recommending anyone to use my kit. Just saying what the pool company wanted me to use for closing to keep my warranty (which is now up since the 1yr has passed).
Dry shock is "Bioguard Artic Blue Shock" dry pellets that I'm supposed to dissolve in bucket of warm water then dump in the pool. Stuff is probably just the same as the several gallons of pool shock I have left over from a SLAM I did back in June.
Dry shock is "Bioguard Artic Blue Shock" dry pellets that I'm supposed to dissolve in bucket of warm water then dump in the pool. Stuff is probably just the same as the several gallons of pool shock I have left over from a SLAM I did back in June.
No, stuff is dichlor.
EDIT: Whoops, just skimmed the label and missed it. Thank you @SJPoe for posting it below. So adding two pounds of it will raise the FC by 10, CYA by 9, and drop the pH. And also add quite a bit of copper, something you really don't want to put in your pool. And we still don't know if there was copper in the algaecide, but if they're putting it in the chlorine then I see no reason to think they're sending out polyquat.
I think if nothing else this is a great example to OP and anyone else wondering about these things of why we strongly advise against them. They always contain something you don't want or need in your water. And a core tenet of TFP is knowing what your water needs and knowing what you are adding to it. Since these kits are sold under the basis of "dump this in and don't ask questions" they are in direct contradiction of all of that.
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Basically Dichlor + Copper. At $10/lb... Plus the amount of Dichlor means it's about 3x the price of regular old liquid chlorine.
Thank you for all you replies, I put the winter cover on a month ago and turn off the pump. I do not have a proper testing kit to provide #s, going to get my sister in law in the US, to get me the recommended test kit, wayyyyy cheaper then up here in Canada. So should I just throw in some liquid chlorine based on my water volume and some polyquat60?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,000
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You really need to know your cya - its the crux of proper chlorination
See—> FC/CYA Levels
Here’s how we recommend closing & opening:
Closing an In Ground Pool
Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.
www.google.com
Opening your pool- An easy to follow guide
Opening your pool can be stressful. This Pool Start Up guide teaches everything from start-up chemicals, covers, and more for your start up.
www.troublefreepool.com
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