Closing-Height of pump related to pipes

[TN94z]

So I normally close my pool myself and it is always a pain getting everything to bubble before plugging. This year I got tired of messing with it and called the local pool guy to come close it. My wife calls me today after they got done and she had asked him how he got the lines blown out before plugging. He told her "you don't have to worry about blowing the lines out because your pump is higher than the plumbing and that we didn't have to worry about freezing."

Does this make sense? What difference does it make where the pump is in relation to the plumbing? The lines will still have water that needs to be blown out so there is no chance of freezing, correct?

 

[jblizzle]

Yes, you are correct. I am not sure what they were trying to tell you.

The water in the pipes will be at the same level as the water in the pool. If that water is above the frost line in the ground, there is a chance of freezing.

 

[Dirk]

Perhaps he is thinking that by lowering the water level in the pool below the returns, all the water would drain from pipes and pump, etc, since they are all now above the pool water? That's certainly flawed, as the pipes running to the returns could very likely have a dip in them, trapping water in the pipe(s). Sounds like crazy (or lazy) talk to me.

According to this:

Frost Line Penetration Map In The U.S. - Hammerpedia

your frost line could be as low as 20". Trapped water he may have left in your pipes could easily be above that.

I don't close my pool, but isn't blowing out the lines the primary reason you hire someone else to do it?

 

[Catanzaro]

The reason why they stated the pump is higher than the plumbing is because water will drain down towards the pool. Based on the map that Dirk provided, your frost line is either 10" or 20", or in between. If you are overly concerned about protecting the plumbing, this is what I would recommend.

If you have a main drain, leave it alone. You can lower the water 1" below the skimmer and use a shop vac to siphon water out (as much as possible), then use the blower and push water towards the pump with the drain plugs removed. This will allow your water to drain out and you will remove most of the water. Then you can use antifreeze in the line and install a Gizzmo. Your pump is upstream, so no antifreeze will be lost.

Regarding your returns, depending on your plumbing (if you can get antifreeze in the lines), I would plug all the lines and then after the filter and before the plugs pour antifreeze in the lines. You do not even need to worry too much because your lines and plumbing should actually below the frost line.

So I normally close my pool myself and it is always a pain getting everything to bubble before plugging.

Can you please go into detail exactly what you have done in the past? Also, please upload pictures of the equipment pad so we can see your plumbing.

Below is a detailed closing thread that has links for almost everything you will need so you can actually close the pool successfully, that is assuming you want to go that route.

- - - Updated - - -

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

 

[TN94z]

The reason why they stated the pump is higher than the plumbing is because water will drain down towards the pool. Based on the map that Dirk provided, your frost line is either 10" or 20", or in between. If you are overly concerned about protecting the plumbing, this is what I would recommend.

If you have a main drain, leave it alone. You can lower the water 1" below the skimmer and use a shop vac to siphon water out (as much as possible), then use the blower and push water towards the pump with the drain plugs removed. This will allow your water to drain out and you will remove most of the water. Then you can use antifreeze in the line and install a Gizzmo. Your pump is upstream, so no antifreeze will be lost.

Regarding your returns, depending on your plumbing (if you can get antifreeze in the lines), I would plug all the lines and then after the filter and before the plugs pour antifreeze in the lines. You do not even need to worry too much because your lines and plumbing should actually below the frost line.



Can you please go into detail exactly what you have done in the past? Also, please upload pictures of the equipment pad so we can see your plumbing.

Below is a detailed closing thread that has links for almost everything you will need so you can actually close the pool successfully, that is assuming you want to go that route.

- - - Updated - - -

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool

I don't have pics to upload at the moment, but I have 4 returns with one that was plumbed for a vacuum setup. So at the pad I have a line for my mains, a line for my skimmers, and line for 3 of my returns with a cutoff that will send more pressure to the 4th return. So normally, I would put my filter on recirculate, install my air hose attachment to the farthest return from the pad, and turn on my compressor. The next return inline would bubble and I would plug it. Then the next return would bubble and I would plug it, then one of the skimmers would bubble and I would install the gizmo. Then the next skimmer. And eventually the two mains would start bubbling and I would close everything off. Then removing the filter gauge, pump plugs, and filter plug and set the filter to winter. Then install the safety cover. Some years it would go perfect. Others I would have to move the air hose attachment around to get everything bubbling. But this year, no matter what I did, I couldn't get anything past the first 3 returns to bubble. So I got tired of messing with it as this year I am much busier than normal, and hired someone to come do it.

 

[Catanzaro]

If you placed your filter on recirculate, then air would start before the filter, not after.

install my air hose attachment to the farthest return from the pad, and turn on my compressor.

I understand the compressor part, but not comprehending the "farthest return from the pad" hookup part. Do you have unions after the filter, on the return lines? If so, you could easily clear the lines and bypass the filter, etc. The winter blow-thru plugs work great with an air compressor. Next year, upon opening I will be testing the returns, skimmer and main drain without any pressure to determine if this will work. I have unions everywhere (on the return side) after everything and on the suction side before the pump. Considering the pump was swapped out for a dummy, this will be a good test run.

Please try to upload some pictures because this will help me assist you in closing your pool (bottom line), for next year.