closing a vinyl pool for winter that is leaking

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R

richardc

0
May 26, 2017
485
chicago/Illinois
It's time to close my in ground vinyl pool for the winter. However, there is a leak(s) most likely in the vinyl liner that has escaped detection. Several other leaks were found and patched but there remains more leaking. The liner is very old and needs replacing (+20 years), but my pool guy says its too cool to change it now. He suggests closing the pool for the winter and replacing the liner in warmer weather. He assures me that my pool structure will not "pop" out of the ground given that it must have a hydrostatic pressure valve, and that I have nothing to worry about. He further suggested that as long as I was going to replace the liner that the pool need not be covered over the winter. I am at a loss as to what to do? Suggestions? Thank you.:confused:
 
I think you've hit on the main concern - will the structure of the pool remain solid? I had a leak in my pool before closing it last winter and we let the water level go down until it was below the leak. As it turned out we still had water in the pool all winter that eventually, of course, turned to ice. There was enough water to ensure the integrity of the pool but my construction is steel walls. Not sure if your construction is different, but if the pool guy says it won't cave in on you, then I don't see what it hurts to let the water out and let it sit until the liner is replaced in spring. You can enjoy your winter picking out the new liner color!
 
Richard:

Do you know where the leaks stops? If so, you can make an educated decision. Your pool is quite large. If this was my pool and the leak stopped half way, I probably would add a large tarp on the pool to sit on the bottom of the water and fill up. But then again, if the pool is structurally sound, you should not have a problem. Good luck and keep us posted!
 
I do not know where the leak stops. I have been letting it sit w/out running the pump but I think it's still leaking. At this point I have some algae building up so I shocked the pool and am running the filter. However, the water is below the skimmer levels so only my main drain is operating. I will let the pool run 24/7 until it clears, or consider refilling it to the skimmers if necessary.

The idea of the large tarp is interesting. Can you explain the reasoning a bit more? Would a tarp theoretically block leaks on the pool bottom at least on temporary basis? How strong of a tarp material might be necessary?

Thank you
 
If you continue to add water because of a leak, algae will not be defeated as you will loose some CYA. You have to let the leak stop before making a decision. If you have a square pool, a large tarp, real snug can be filled up with water on top of the water. Just like another liner. This may work, but with no guarantee. My tarp is now sitting on top of the water, which is 1" below the skimmers. It can fill up all winter long and hold, at about the 2' level. So if your leak stops at 3' to 3.5', this may work. Anything below that you are taking a risk and would need a very large tarp. The material does not have to be that strong, just hold water.
 
The algae is the least of your worries. Stop adding water, let it leak until you have no less then a foot in the shallow end. If it doesn't stop I think you better get a leak specialist in. If it does stop that will point you to the leak. a tarp on top like mentioned would work if it's twice as big as the pool to allow it to fit into the deep end. You would have to add water to replace what gets lost under it. I highly doubt it will work in all honesty. Fix the leak.
 
Chemnut said:
The algae is the least of your worries. Stop adding water, let it leak until you have no less then a foot in the shallow end. If it doesn't stop I think you better get a leak specialist in. If it does stop that will point you to the leak. a tarp on top like mentioned would work if it's twice as big as the pool to allow it to fit into the deep end. You would have to add water to replace what gets lost under it. I highly doubt it will work in all honesty. Fix the leak.
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I can't get anyone to fix the leak now as the water is too cold for a diver. I don't have a heater, and the water temp is in the 60's. I would replace the liner but they tell me that they need warmer weather for that. So I am stuck. I'm not sure or understanding the function of a tarp? Is that an attempt to "plug" the leak on a temporary basis?
 
I'm not sure or understanding the function of a tarp? Is that an attempt to "plug" the leak on a temporary basis?
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You have not told us where the leak stops. Once we know, then we will be able to assist you further. My neighbors pool emptied while he was gone. The pool remained with no water for over 8 weeks until a nee liner came in. Luckily no damage. Not recommending this at all, as a lot has to do with water tables, but where does it stop. This is a good indication of what is next.

Keep adding water and you will never know. Please advise. Thanks!
 
Catanzaro said:
You have not told us where the leak stops. Once we know, then we will be able to assist you further. My neighbors pool emptied while he was gone. The pool remained with no water for over 8 weeks until a nee liner came in. Luckily no damage. Not recommending this at all, as a lot has to do with water tables, but where does it stop. This is a good indication of what is next.

Keep adding water and you will never know. Please advise. Thanks!
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The water is still leaking. It is slightly below the skimmer level, and leaking. I am not adding water. Today an experienced pool guy told me that vermiculite bottom pools with vinyl liners will not pop out of the ground as the vermiculite is water permeable. Thus water pressure will be relieved by dissipating through the vermiculite. Of course, he said that the liner will have to be replaced were that to happen as the water beneath the liner will disrupt the seating of same. He further stated that he has observed that type of situation many times. Since the liner needs replacement anyway( 20 years old) he urged me not to worry about the pool popping out. Finally, he said that the only thing that could possibly be damaged might be some of the vermiculite which would need resurfacing.
 

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He is right about the bottom, but it's the walls that worry me. I have seen walls crushed over the winter by water loss because of a leak. Let the water continue to drain, when it stops leaking that will show you where the leak is. In no way would I let my pool go unfilled over winter.
 
Richard:

Here is a thought. If you are not the original owner, which I believe you are not, go back to the township and try to find out who the pool builder is. Then, if successful call them (assuming they are not out of business) and ask them how they built pools back then. This may relieve some of your fears. I know that my walls are extremely sturdy with the construction, etc. and could leave empty probably all winter long. Would I do this again, the answer is no and would build a concrete wall liner pool. I have very high elevation and no water in the ground, which does help. In addition, drainage had to be done to satisfy the township.

If the water stops leaking somewhere, you could purchase a large tarp, provide enough slack and fill up with water to support the walls, etc. The tarp will not leak. Picture a regular tarp for an IG pool during closing. My water was lowered below the skimmer and now the tarp is sitting there accumulating water. The tarp has not leaked in 3 years. They last about 5 years. The only issue you will have is if the leak is so far down that even the largest tarp would not cover the whole pool.
 
Vermiculite will turn to an oatmeal consistency & need replacement. & you may snap an "a frame" and panels will fold like pool in photo - the long wall moved a big 8" inward.


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I have closed the pool and have decided to keep the water filled as best as possible over the winter. I have a hose attached to my basement laundry tub and will be able to reach the pool. The leak up to now has not been that great, about 3/8 inch per day. Hopefully I will be able to maintain a decent water level until spring when I will replace the liner.
 
James:

You know the problem is that these PB make up excuses for everything. I am going through this with a friend. The PB is dragging everything along. By the time his liner goes in, it may be already time for snow.

So, when should a liner not go in? What type of day temperatures and night temperatures. NJ may be different than other states.
 
A lot depends on what the installer and manufacturer feel comfortable with.

In my opinion, a liner can be installed above 45 degrees on a sunny day.

Of course, an installer would prefer a 72 degree day with a light breeze, maybe a few fluffy clouds floating by but that's not always realistic.
 
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