Check valve issue

[Baalz]

I have been trying to get my Rheem 8450ti heat pump working properly with it in pool mode or spa.
Whatever I tried, the heater would trip and he high pressure switch. The check valve flap was barely opening
So I removed the flap and raised my flow rate to 40+ home. Bingo! The heate would work on pool with diverter completely open to heat pump. Spa worked with that same handy slightly diverted.

My question are. Is this check valve hoint to be ok being removed? I can insert a jandy valve in housing to bypass heater if ever needed.

 

[pjt]

The heate would work on pool with diverter completely open to heat pump. Spa worked with that same handy slightly diverted.

When you're using the HP, the bypass should be completely closed so 100% of the water flows into the HP.

The check valve flap was barely opening

At normal flow rates, the check valve will appear partially closed. This is normal.

Is this check valve hoint to be ok being removed?

You need a check valve on the output of your HP for operating with the HP off and bypass open.

Figure out what pump RPM satisfies the HP pressure/flow switch, then add 100-200 RPM to that speed for routine HP use.

 

[Baalz]

When you're using the HP, the bypass should be completely closed so 100% of the water flows into the HP.

I can run it 100% through the heater while returning to pool and spa. When returning intake and output is on spa only. This has to be partially bypassed because back pressure on my 3HP pump. This is recommended by heater manufacturer.

At normal flow rates, the check valve will appear partially closed. This is normal.

Normal flow rates the check valve was restricting flow through heater causing High pressuure trips. The flap was not even visibly appearing open. I performed many different tests at different RPM and diverter positions.

You need a check valve on the output of your HP for operating with the HP off and bypass open.

Figure out what pump RPM satisfies the HP pressure/flow switch, then add 100-200 RPM to that speed for routine HP use.

If I remove the check valve internals, I can replace with a jandy 2way internals and then be able to bypass heater.

My thread as explaining what I needed to do to have heater not trip because of not enough flow. With Check Valve in place I could not increase flow enough without getting to much back pressure on pump.

My main question now, is the Check valve necessary to protect the Heat Pump from my SWG. See pics.
SWG has a flow switch and is connected through my pumps relay. SWG will not run with pump off or any schedule I do not include it in. Like spa mode schedule it is disabled

 

[pjt]

Normal flow rates the check valve was restricting flow through heater causing High pressuure trips.

That's unusual. You might be able to replace the spring with a lighter one.

If I remove the check valve internals, I can replace with a jandy 2way internals and then be able to bypass heater.

You could, but there would be risk of valve mismanagement closing off all flow on the pressure side of your system.

My main question now, is the Check valve necessary to protect the Heat Pump from my SWG.

No. You don't need a check valve to protect your HP from a SWCG. The only reason you currently need a check valve is the bypass.