Can someone check my closing list and instructions? It’s my first close. 🥸

[ryandkysmom]

I am mostly worried about keeping winter cover weighted down on the deck. Previous owner nailed wooden boards to deck straight through what looked like a giant blue Walmart tarp. However, after paying $150 for one, I’m reluctant to nail holes in it.

I’m afraid to use the water tubes or aquablocks because so many people have said they are junk, leak, break etc… Although, when I bought this cover I thought I was going to use water bags because it’s made for those to be used. It doesn’t come with them of course so I’d have to buy them. I’m thinking 5 gallon buckets with lids. I’m going to try and find some this week. I found a website that advises of places to get them free, Stores That Hand Out 5 Gallon Buckets Free - SHTFPreparedness. I’ve also been saving bleach jugs and gallon milk jugs.

Our pool is 17’ x 31’ and cover is 18’ x 36’ (and 5’ larger somehow so maybe 20’ x 38’?). How many buckets should I get and how far should I space them out? Should I also get water bags or aquablocks in addition? I live in Cleveland, Ohio and winters are usually long harsh and windy. Also, I have spent a lot of money on all the closing stuff and am low on funds at this point. I’m not comfortable pouring cement into any container to weigh it down, only water. Please advise on number and spacing of buckets and if I should supplement with bags or aquablocks.
Supreme Plus Winter Cover for 18x36 ft


Supreme Plus Winter Pool Cover for 18x36 ft Rectangle Pools, 12 Year Warranty - National Discount Pool Supplies, LLC

 

[ryandkysmom]

I think I have everything I need to close my pool for the first time. Can someone go over these instructions and answer my questions sling the way? I apologize for the length of this post but I need detail list so I don’t forget important steps.



List of things so far acquired for my close which I hope to do by mid October:



Supreme Plus Winter Cover for 18x36 ft


Supreme Plus Winter Pool Cover for 18x36 ft Rectangle Pools, 12 Year Warranty - National Discount Pool Supplies, LLC



6 Gallon Non-Toxic Pool AntiFreeze for 56’ of 1.5” pvc pipe, and skimmer? (Burst protection up to -50F)



Curved funnel (for pouring antifreeze)



4' X 5' Heavy Duty Ice Expansion Air Pillow plus I have old one from previous owner (only filling pillows about 75% so it doesn’t pop like a balloon which I guess is a thing)



Polypropylene Rope for tying air pillows



Haviland USA Proteam 1 QT Polyquat 60

Algaecide (need 8 oz for 20,000 gallon per bottle instructions)



Backwash hoses with cam fittings for draining pool to storm sewer



TacParts Magic Lube II Silicone Lube (for o rings)



Hayward SP1419T Hydrosweep and Hydrostream Directional Flow Inlet Fitting Seat Removal Tool - someone here said this could be useful. I plan to remove eyes and use threaded plug.



Gizmo



Teflon tape for gizmo



#1-5 Tapered Rubber Expansion Plug 1/2'' - 1'' Pipe for Swimming Pools & Spas - #1-5 Winter Plug - Stainless Steel Wings & Bolts - Heavy Duty Rubber (5)- I got extra in case of malfunction. (For sealing up eyes and/or skimmer and return pipe, although I may end up not using these at all. Idk yet. )



#7-11 Tapered Winter Plug for Swimming Pools Pipe 1 1/4'' - 2'' Swimming Pools & Spas #7-11 Winter Plug - Stainless Steel Wings & Bolts - Heavy Duty Rubber (5) - (different size, again extra just in case)



My plan is from TFP. It’s a blend of these instructions

Closing an In Ground Pool - Trouble Free Pool | Trouble Free Pool

and advice from various forum posts:

While water is at 60F, make sure Ph is between 7.4-7.6. Check TA, etc… SLAM two days then let FC get to half normal level (day or two). Add 8 oz of the polyquat and let pump run to mix it for 30 min. Clean leaves, dirt etc. Remove, clean and store ladder. (Leaving screws or something to mark exact location.) Store ladder away with all other seasonal items in garage.



Backwash for 1 min, rinse 30 sec.

Drain pool by vacuuming to waste to 2” below bottom of returns (remember it’s really an above ground w vinyl liner.) I have a very slow small pump for cover as back up if I lose prime.



Set sand filter to recirculate because I don’t want sand blowing around when I blow the lines out.



Remove skimmer basket. Remove inlet eyes. Use Hayward tool to remove the inner part by inserting and gently twist counterclockwise. Remove that piece.



Remove basket from pump. Store all small pieces in pump basket to keep track of everything. Drain excess water from pump.



Blow out lines.

1)If I use shop vac, I should be able to use hole (from inside pump) directly through to the hose (outside of pump) that leads to my pvc pipes that lead to the inlets and skimmer. I’ll have to see if my see if I need an adapter or if I already have one in box of random parts left by previous owner.



2) If I end up using air compressor, it should fit where front drain plug is. Make sure lid is back on pump and blow the lines. Do I remove the impeller side drain plug as well before blowing or leave it on? (Possibly buying this air compressor suggested on TFP if shop vac doesn’t work)

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977



Plug whichever place blows out water first, then whatever is second, then third. At some point, scoop out water as much as possible from skimmer, install gizmo and cut up pool noodle. I’m going to put 1 gallon antifreeze in there and put skimmer cover over it. I just found that cover in box in garage lol. Maybe I’ll tape the little hole with duct tape. The wood access cover/panel in deck allows rain in there… I will probably try unplugging alternating places and blowing again to get as much water out as possible.



How am I getting antifreeze in the pvc lines?Will I need to remove an eye plug, pour some in and plug it back up? The eyes are higher than the pvc pipe that lays on ground. I’d then have to use the tapered rubber plugs on pvc ends. I’m not trying to fill the pipes, just put some in there. Right? Idk if the recommended amount formula is for filling up the pipe or for a partial fill. (“rate of one gallon per ten feet or fifteen feet of pipe”)



When I’m finished blowing lines, pouring antifreeze and all plugs are in, I have to set filter to winter. Or do I place it between 2 settings so it sits higher and allows air? Idk if it’s the same thing essentially or not. I also just now read on filter instructions you are supposed to take off valve, remove laterals etc… take apart and store cleaned.


https://p20.zdusercontent.com/attac...CoZqzE9DWrEIDFoedthyc8.KL17LvoZbuE3DJqnzUpVsg



Remove and store pressure gauge (shake excess water) and sight glass with rubber washer. Remove sand filter plug and leave the critter stopper thing (idk what it’s called but saw this on a YouTube) so no mice or anything go in over the winter. Make sure nothing can crawl into pressure gauge and sight glass holes. I’ve seen people put foil there to prevent bugs etc.



Then I’ll remove the attached hoses from filter. Store those away and plug those holes with the winter plugs I guess? Or I’m taking it all apart, cleaning it and refilling w fresh sand next spring.



I can put pump in garage, disconnect those hoses and put the tapered winter plugs in pvc. Oh my. I don’t know whether I’m more informed or more confused after combing through this detailed instruction for myself.



Oh yeah, and put air pillows across pool, add cover, weigh down somehow lol.

 

[Mdragger88]

It’s really a pick your poison kind of situation. The water bags are reusable next year if they don’t bust, same with the buckets. You would need alot of buckets or jugs to go all the way around the pool - this where the water bags/tubes shine since they are long. Not sure about the aqua blocks. I would probably do a combination of tubes & buckets if I was trying to weigh it down.
@linda1 does bungee cords & also lives in the frozen north as explained here

Winter cover with a deck

We've used a winter cover in the past, but got tired of having to replace almost yearly because the wind would get underneath, would tear etc. Because of tears, wed end up with light hitting the water and often open to green. So we tried the coverless route, which worked quite well for the most...

www.troublefreepool.com

That cover has grommets in it so nailing boards down wouldn’t necessarily ruin the cover if you only did it where the grommets were.

 

[joonbug99]

6 gallons of anti freeze seems a bit much IMO. I have over 56' of plumbing and use one gallon of anti freeze. A third of a gallon each for the skimmer, deck jets and returns. If the lines are cleared properly you should not need any anti freeze. The anti freeze eventually settles in the lowest part of the plumbing anyway and does not "fill" the plumbing lines completely. Anti freeze is only a backup peace of mind solution if the lines were not completely cleared. Even in the unlikely event that some water remained in the lines after being properly cleared it would not burst a line it would simply expand to the open space in the line provided the line was not air locked and closed.

The filter should be off and drained before you blow out the lines. Sand from the filter should never be a concern during closing. You are not forcing air through the filter. Forced air should be introduced in the system before the filter on the suction side and after the filter on the return side. This is why you need to remove the drain plug from the filter.

I leave the filter in an in between position for the winter. I only "close" the main drain lines of the pool. Everything else I leave open or disconnected at the equipment pad for ventilation and any unforeseen expansion of water in the system.

Securing the cover is a concern. Water in the buckets will freeze. Leave space for expansion or they will crack and then empty once the temps warm up. This will cause the cover to fall into pull and take with it all of the seasons mess. I would think you would need a bucket every 6-8 feet at least. They seem heavy but truly are no match for mother natures long windy winters. I live in Rochester NY and am very familiar with harsh winters.

Hope this helps. Pictures of the equipment pad and pool might help people in lending advice.

 

[ryandkysmom]

Do these pics help?

 

[ryandkysmom]

Pool w deck

 

[ryandkysmom]

Ok so I SLAMMED for two days. Waited for it get to half normal FC for two days. FC is 12 and we are closing tomorrow. If it isn’t 3-5 FC range, can I still add the Polyquat and close? Also the ph was difficult to read because it was dark pink. But the TA was only 90, so can I assume ph ok?
We did get water bags as a back up but getting treated wood tonight and plan on screwing then in the grommets to secure to deck. I am going to measure deck right now and make sure it will fit the cover without going over the sides. Crossing fingers at this point lol.

 

[Newdude]

We aren't losing much to daily UV loss these days up north. The FC will likely be close to what it is now. It is what it is if your non pool schedule says you can't wait for it to drift down.

We rec closing at half SLAM level with PQ because the chlorine will oxidize some PQ. More chlorine (full SLAM) means less polyquat once they fight it out.

Personally I'd rather have full SLAM FC than roll the dice with whoever wins the side battle, although I do believe both ways help.