Can I add Stabilizer and Liquid Chlorine at the same time?

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R

RaddestTad

0
Jul 19, 2016
22
Kansas City, MO
Hi all,

After testing with my Taylor K-2006 kit that I just received from Amazon, I was only slightly surprised that CYA was registering on the very low end. I had very high CYA levels at the end of last summer so performed a few different drains/re-fills. This summer (while the water has been pretty clear), I have not been able to hold FC/CC levels at all. I've tried a few times to raise the levels, but no such luck. We also get a decent amount of debris on the pool and it's been storming, so those elements have played a part as well. But now, I am very dedicated to getting my levels back to normal. My question is that if I am ready to add stabilizer (8 lbs. to get to 80 PPM assuming I truly am at zero), is it completely a waste of time to add liquid chlorine (10%) at the same time to get the pool to "shock" level? I have around 20 gallons of liquid chlorine ready to go and have the day to add, test, re-add and so on. Do I really need to wait to start raising chlorine levels? Or can I start the process now?

Test Results:
TC - >.5
FC - 0
CH - 140
CYA - 0-10
TA - 100
PH - 7.6

12,000 ABG pool
Vinyl Liner
Hayward Sand Filter

Thanks!

-Kevin
 
Start by adding FC to 10. Recheck it in 15 minutes or so. If you have 5 FC or more remaining, go on. Otherwise repeat.

Then add CYA to get to 30.

Then you can SLAM Process to 12 FC.

If you don't have algae or anything, you'll pass all three tests by tomorrow and you can go ahead and raise CYA to whatever you want. But if you don't pass, you'll be grateful you kept CYA down at 30 for the SLAM Process
 
Ok, sounds good. I tried the "bucket test" last night to try and figure out how much liquid chlorine it would take, but I'm not too sure of my results. How many gallons of liquid chlorine should it take to raise my FC to 10? I used the Pool Calculator and it says I should be able to use 149 oz. of 10% liquid chlorine to raise my FC level from 0 to 10, but that seems very low....

12,000 ABG
Sand Filter
Vinyl

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, sounds good. I tried the "bucket test" last night to try and figure out how much liquid chlorine it would take, but I'm not too sure of my results. How many gallons of liquid chlorine should it take to raise my FC to 10? I used the Pool Calculator and it says I should be able to use 149 oz. of 10% liquid chlorine to raise my FC level from 0 to 10, but that seems very low....

12,000 ABG
Sand Filter
Vinyl
 
So I just tested after about 25 minutes and it looks like I have about 2.0 FC and 2.0 CC. Do I just continue adding the liquid chlorine until I get to 10 (The test kit only indicates chlorine levels up to 5, should I assume I should just double the amount of chlorine that got me to 5, correct? I added around 160 oz. the first time around....
 
Use poolmath to estimate the required Chlorine amounts as your FC consumption will start to drop.

I am not as familiar with the K-2006, but you will need to use the FC drop test to measure your FC for your Slam when over 5 ppm. But yes keep adding and testing and repeat as often as possible.
 
Ahh, gotcha. Ordering now. Although, I just checked after my second adding of liquid chlorine and it stills appears that FC/CC are both still at 2.0. Is that possible? I have now added 3 gallons of liquid chlorine and it's still registering at 2.0 (I haven't added any stabilizer yet either). The water also looks to be getting cloudier...
 
Wait.. You said you had a Taylor K-2006 test kit. Inside that kit should be the required reagents to do the DPD test. you need the R-0870 powder and the R-0871 drops to test for FC. Then the R-0003 drops and R-0871 drops to test for CC. These test use a color change from pink to clear.
You don't need to use the comparator block to do the chlorine test. That is the OTO chlorine test and is not as accurate and is redundant.

As for your ability to keep FC in the water, it sounds like you have ammonia in your water.
1. "I was only slightly surprised that CYA was registering on the very low end."
2. Clear water, starting with FC of 10 but "So I just tested after about 25 minutes and it looks like I have about 2.0 FC and 2.0 CC." The FC dropping quick and high CC level are signs.


So you need to use PoolMath to figure out how much chlorine to add. Add enough bleach to get your a estimated FC of 10ppm. Retest it in 15 minutes using the DPD chlorine test (R-0870 powder & R-871 drops). If you have FC of 5 or less, then repeat these steps. Keep doing this until your tested FC is 5ppm or more. Depending on how much ammonia you have in the water, it could take a LOT of bleach. Once your FC is testing above 5ppm after 15 mins, then you can start the SLAM process.

.
 

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Ahh, finally saw the test you were talking about. I may run out and get an Ammonia test because based on what I've read online (high CYA levels when pool closed, and the fact that we get a lot of debris around our pool). I kind of have a feeling that's what the cause is. I know that I'll still need to SLAM, but I wanted to make sure I got the math right for clearing the Ammonia. Let's say that I have 6ppm Ammonia in my pool, and I need to get 10X to kill off the Ammonia. That means that it would take 886 oz. (or around 7 gallons) to kill off the Ammonia. THEN, I would have to raise the FC level again and start the SLAM process?

12,000 ABG
Sand Filter/Vinyl
 
You got a better grasp now. You don't really need to get a test for ammonia. The method above can be your test. Regardless, the removal is the same: lots of chlorine. The sooner the better, you will need to find and bring home bleach. start with 10-15 gallons if you want. Then perform the procedures outlined above. Any bleach left over you can just use for maintenance purposes.

Once the FC holds above 5 ppm for 15 minutes then you can immediately start the slam process by just adding enough bleach to get up to slam levels
 
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