Calimar 3hp VS Pump Installed - let's see how long it lives.

[david_]

As I've posted before, I've had some seal issues with my old Pentair Challenger 2hp pump. Well, given I recently revamped my pool electrical, I figured it was a good time to eliminate the timer and go to VSP.

The install went easy with these fittings. Only issues were that the electrical non-metallic fitting doesn't want to thread into the pump very far, and there's no strain relief bracket in the electrical box. But overall I'm pleased - I can run this at 1000 rpm and still get water over the weirs, and per the display it's only using 83 watts. Time will tell how long this inexpensive pump will last, but I'll update the thread if/when it dies. I did buy the three-year 3rd party warranty from PoolSupplyUnlimited, so maybe that will come into play.



Next up is building a concrete pad for this equipment and enclosing with a fence.

 

[Newdude]

Please keep us updated. At 1/3 the cost of an intelliflo, it's my new favorite for anyone who doesn't have conflicting brand automation. If it lasts half as long, which it almost certainly will, it's worth it.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Good buy! If you ever get the itch to automate, here's a thread outlining the install of the automation interface kit on a B&D pump (basically the same kit)...

Sonoff Pool Automation Help Needed

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

Is the part where the seal tight connector enters the pump box threaded? If not there should be a lock nut on the other side. If it is threaded & your male connector is the correct size, you could remove it completely from the sealtight & wire, run a locknut up on it loosely, then cut it down to the depth you need, unscrewing the locknut should then ensure the threads remain good. The other option is to put a locknut between the box & the fitting (opposite the way it would normally go if it’s directional) to secure it to the box.

 

[david_]

Is the part where the seal tight connector enters the pump box threaded? If not there should be a lock nut on the other side. If it is threaded & your male connector is the correct size, you could remove it completely from the sealtight & wire, run a locknut up on it loosely, then cut it down to the depth you need, unscrewing the locknut should then ensure the threads remain good. The other option is to put a locknut between the box & the fitting (opposite the way it would normally go if it’s directional) to secure it to the box.

It is threaded 1/2" NPT I believe. I like the idea of cutting it down as I could only get a turn or two.

 

[jsygrls]

Hey COST-A-LOTTA, David,

I have a question regarding the Calimar 3 HP install you just completed. Is the base removeable or adjustable at all?
I like to replace a Hayward super II and the incoming plumbing is 8-3/16" the Calimar looks to be about 9.1. Is there any thing that you came across during your install that indicates that I could make this swap easy, WITHOUT a major plumbing redo.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Hey COST-A-LOTTA,

I have a question regarding the Calimar 3 HP install you just completed. Is the base removeable or adjustable at all?
I like to replace a Hayward super II and the incoming plumbing is 8-3/16" the Calimar looks to be about 9.1. Is there any thing that you came across during your install that indicates that I could make this swap easy, WITHOUT a major plumbing redo.

I didn't actually install a Calimar...just passing some info.

It doesn't look like the Calimar comes with an adjustable base like it's B&D cousin and it's not showing on the vendor's parts link :



The B&D base SHOULD fit, but I couldn't find the part available separately doing a quick search.

EDIT: I realized the Calimar is too high for your plumbing. Looking at the diagram for the Calimar, it does look like the standard base is removable. I'm not sure how it'll work without it though.