Bulge where tracks spread too far after filling

[jaynagy007]

Hello!
So my kids and wife begged for a pool mid covid and I couldn't find an installer for almost 2 seasons in my area. Took it upon myself to install 27ft pool I purchased from Pool Warehouse. I'm an amateur but I took a great deal of time to ensure leveling, proper sand, ground pad, whole 9 yards. After clicking the tracks together there was an excess amount of steel wall (like 2 feet.) I had to spread the tracks considerably inside the feet.
Come fill up week this post popped off in 1 area due to the tracks spreading too far and a buldge formed at the bottom due to too a space between the tracks meeting. I reinforced this area with sandbags but it worries me. I had a sub contracted out this week who quoted me $5,000 to take apart and reinstall and I need to buy a new liner bc they can't line it up. I just don't have that kind of money right now and I'd attempt it myself before paying that. I just don't have the man power to help roll the wall anymore. I personally think they are overcharging.
Anyway, I was considering possibly draining the pool and trying to slip a piece of sheet metal up against the pool wall inside of the tracks to reinforce that area and take away the space and refill. Is that crazy? Do you think it's fine and not to worry? It is intact after the whole winter and many windstorms. Any advice would be great. I'm sorry I am an amateur and just want to get pointed in the right direction and keep my family safe.

 

[jaynagy007]

 

[Selenap]

First off. This is a new liner. Draining it should be ok. When you refill, do it in full sun slowly.
2nd. The wall appears buckled. No matter what you don’t want it to crease.
If I was you, drain the pool down to 1 inch of water. That bulge would suggest the pool is out of level or out of round. The track looks ok to me, but you want the tracks evenly spaced all the way around. If there are gaps, they need to be even, and place the gaps in the posts at the connecting track. So all that being said, you may have to drop the liner. To brace the walls use landscape stakes, clamps and string. Stake both sides of the wall and use a bunch. Then you can work your way around the pool to straighten the wall. This is a pain but much cheaper than having someone else basically do the same thing. As for the skimmer and return area, leave the liner attached there if you can because it’s a pain to refit it exactly. I’m no expert but I have some experience with agp install. I’ve done my own and assisted in a few others. Did you receive enough track to begin with?

 

[jaynagy007]

First off. This is a new liner. Draining it should be ok. When you refill, do it in full sun slowly.
2nd. The wall appears buckled. No matter what you don’t want it to crease.
If I was you, drain the pool down to 1 inch of water. That bulge would suggest the pool is out of level or out of round. The track looks ok to me, but you want the tracks evenly spaced all the way around. If there are gaps, they need to be even, and place the gaps in the posts at the connecting track. So all that being said, you may have to drop the liner. To brace the walls use landscape stakes, clamps and string. Stake both sides of the wall and use a bunch. Then you can work your way around the pool to straighten the wall. This is a pain but much cheaper than having someone else basically do the same thing. As for the skimmer and return area, leave the liner attached there if you can because it’s a pain to refit it exactly. I’m no expert but I have some experience with agp install. I’ve done my own and assisted in a few others. Did you receive enough track to begin with?

Thank you for your response. Yes there was the right number of tracks. The blocks were all leveled with a water level so it has to be the spacing of the tracks. You can actually see where the space is in the picture as the wall is pushing out warping the plastic. I tried respace before filling it up but I couldn't get them to budge. Not even with a hammer and wood block. So do you believe I'll have to detach the bolts and ravel the wall to do all this? Can I somehow adjust the spacing without raveling the wall backup? I just wish I could just somehow take away that space since it's literally on just one of the connections.

 

[Selenap]

Hello!
So my kids and wife begged for a pool mid covid and I couldn't find an installer for almost 2 seasons in my area. Took it upon myself to install 27ft pool I purchased from Pool Warehouse. I'm an amateur but I took a great deal of time to ensure leveling, proper sand, ground pad, whole 9 yards. After clicking the tracks together there was an excess amount of steel wall (like 2 feet.) I had to spread the tracks considerably inside the feet.
Come fill up week this post popped off in 1 area due to the tracks spreading too far and a buldge formed at the bottom due to too a space between the tracks meeting. I reinforced this area with sandbags but it worries me. I had a sub contracted out this week who quoted me $5,000 to take apart and reinstall and I need to buy a new liner bc they can't line it up. I just don't have that kind of money right now and I'd attempt it myself before paying that. I just don't have the man power to help roll the wall anymore. I personally think they are overcharging.
Anyway, I was considering possibly draining the pool and trying to slip a piece of sheet metal up against the pool wall inside of the tracks to reinforce that area and take away the space and refill. Is that crazy? Do you think it's fine and not to worry? It is intact after the whole winter and many windstorms. Any advice would be great. I'm sorry I am an amateur and just want to get pointed in the right direction and keep my family safe.

Thank you for your response. Yes there was the right number of tracks. The blocks were all leveled with a water level so it has to be the spacing of the tracks. You can actually see where the space is in the picture as the wall is pushing out warping the plastic. I tried respace before filling it up but I couldn't get them to budge. Not even with a hammer and wood block. So do you believe I'll have to detach the bolts and ravel the wall to do all this? Can I somehow adjust the spacing without raveling the wall backup? I just wish I could just somehow take away that space since it's literally on just one of the connections.

It’s going to be a pain but if you get the weight off the wall (empty liner) you should be able to tap the tracks back and forth to even them up. If you just drain the water down to an inch, you won’t have to remove the top rails even. If you used a sand cove, the sand will move and get between the tracks. Speaking of, make sure the tracks are clear so the wall sits completely down in the track. If it’s lifting off anywhere along the track, it could bulge in that spot. You can do this without taking the wall down. Either leave to top rail attached or stake it If you remove it. You can also remove liner and reattach the top rails temporarily to fix anything else.