Build Underway ... Pipe Help Needed

[imperator]

Here's a draft layout of my plumbing.


Any comments/corrections appreciated.

My biggest question is on return pipe size. Do you think I can just step down to 2" pipe for all of these return lines? Sure would be easier to just buy everything from Lowes/HD instead of hunting down 2.5 from a plumbing supply shop (and it would be much cheaper apparently).

I was also wondering about the spa drains (that run to the VF pump, filter, etc) siphoning the contents of the spa into the pool when the filtration shuts off? If this can happen, how do you prevent?

Thanks

 

[jblizzle]

WOW!!!! This is the fanciest layout schematic I think I have seen

These are some very large pipes ... 3" on the suction is big (and expensive). I would not think there is any reason you can not drop to 2" on the return pipes after the last 3-way, it may lower your flow rate a little, but not much.

Are you sure the Polaris can run on non-filtered water? OR does it have its own little filter?

Where are you adding a flowmeter and why? If you want one, I would highly recommend the FloVis that is also a check valve (since you show one after the heater, although I am not sure you actually need a check valve there either).

 

[Divin Dave]

Wow! Awesome layout you have done.

Thats some pretty big PVC pipes. I really dont know enough about hydraulics to comment in an educated sense about it. But it just seem awfully big to me. Maybe trying to keep the flow rate at < 7 ft/ sec under any condition?

What I do notice though, is that unless that High Flow Valve can accomodate it, you have not accounted for any way to vacuum to waste. In the event you do have an agressive outbreak and have a lot of dead stuff, it may be preferable to vacuum to the ground rather than through your filter.

Hopefully more knowledgeable folks will chime in soon.

Good Luck with your new pool!

 

[jblizzle]

The high flow multi-port valve will have a waste pipe that is not shown in the schematic.

 

[imperator]

WOW!!!! This is the fanciest layout schematic I think I have seen

These are some very large pipes ... 3" on the suction is big (and expensive). I would not think there is any reason you can not drop to 2" on the return pipes after the last 3-way, it may lower your flow rate a little, but not much.

Are you sure the Polaris can run on non-filtered water? OR does it have its own little filter?

Where are you adding a flowmeter and why? If you want one, I would highly recommend the FloVis that is also a check valve (since you show one after the heater, although I am not sure you actually need a check valve there either).

I will have long plumbing runs from 50 to 100 feet depending on where i put the pad. I also have 12 spa jets, so i'd like to get maximum flow.

I dont think the polaris needs filstration ... but i am a rookie at all of this. I plan to go with the pressure side 360 so i wont need the booster pump. i was undernthe impression that these pressure side cleaners just bag debris.

i figured the flow meter(s) would be good to make sure you get the max efficiency from chlorinator, heater, etc. not sure if i'll go with that as i am going diy on plumbing and may want to minimize points of failure.

Any idea why 2.5 pvc is expensive? mIs it just because its rare?

The pentair valves i'm using accept 2.5's and 3's. i figure it'll be easier to not be stepping up/down on sizing and just use what they accept.

Any thoughts on spa draining? Do the plumbers put a hartford loop on the spa drain line?

 

[jblizzle]

Maximum efficiency for the heater is at highest flow rates. The SWG just has a minimum flow rate for it to function, there is no efficiency change with flow rate.

I thought pressure cleaners required a filter in the plumbing. Sometimes they are small canisters if the water does not go through the main filter. If you ever get algae, they will clog quickly.