Broken flange on waterfall fixture - what glue should I use to repair?

[CountyBumkin]

The flange or hub on the back of my waterfall fixture cracked. I was able to remove the spa hose and the flange came off. The flange looks to be glued together at the factory.

What kind of glue should I use to reattach the flange to the water fall fixture (it is PVC). This is "face to face" connection (not slip fit, so pcv glue wont work)

 

[duraleigh]

That a tough one. a two part epoxy might work but I am skeptical. I guess that elbow will not separate from the flange that broke off, right?

Do you have enough plastic on the buried part that you could drill pilot holes at an angle and then screw it down with thin screws?

Somehow, I think you have to get it mechanically connected rather than just glue.

 

[Pool_Medic]

I think you could find a fitting that will glue inside the waterfall flange. Maybe a reducer 1.5 to 1, then the reverse to glue a 45 then the spa flex goes inside the 45. Insure you clean everything up nice with the primer before using pvc glue.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

It is a tough one. 2 part epoxy won’t work.

PVC solvent and weld is your best shot.

Please Identify which waterfall it is.. I have pulled a few McGuyvers in this situation. I have used pvc flanges & ss hardware, bulkhead assembles & in other cases just hammered it out and replaced.

The flex riser to the waterfall is your culprit, flex pvc grows when it is charged & sheered your fixture.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

I think you could find a fitting that will glue inside the waterfall flange. Maybe a reducer 1.5 to 1, then the reverse to glue a 45 then the spa flex goes inside the 45. Insure you clean everything up nice with the primer before using pvc glue.

You thinking lasco - ID to OD extender?

I just scored a case ?.

 

[kefjens]

I used a product called Plast-aid to repair a pvc heat exchanger. Worked like a charm! The only downside was the price of it in the quantities that I needed to recast the bottom of the exchanger.

Clean the surfaces really well, build a clay mold around the fitting, mix the plast-aid and pour it in the mold.

 

[CountyBumkin]

After researching and asking what to use on other forums, I ended up getting a two-part epoxy product called G/flex WEST SYSTEM G/flex 655-8 Epoxy Adhesive | West Marine
I cleaned both surfaces and then sanded lightly with 80 git, then "flame treated" (per instructions) which is just passing a propane torch over the PVC. I glued it in place yesterday - so will check it tonight when I get home.

I never heard of this process before -from the instructions:

FLAME TREATING—Pass the flame of a propane torch across the surface quickly. Allow the flame to touch the surface, but keep it moving—about 12 to 16 inches per second. No obvious change takes place, but the flame oxidizes the surface and dramatically improves adhesion with adhesives and coatings applied over it. While flame treating will improve adhesion to most plastics, it appears to provide the greatest benefit to polyethylene. If you are unsure of the type of plastic, it doesn’t hurt to flame treat.

Thanks for your help and comments on this.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

The flame increases surface area.
Get rid of the flex pvc riser, or it will sheer again.

 

[CountyBumkin]

You mean that flexible hose section? I'm not sure how long that section is or where the other end is located.

I think the waterfall flange broke because the paver deck above settled putting to much pressure on that 45 fitting. I was planning to firmly pack the soil below the plumbing before putting the pavers back in place.

 

[PoolguyinCT]

Yes
Flex expands and contracts when charges. That’s your sheer.