Brand New Opening!

[lmisko]

So excited! We had our pool installed late last fall and only had one weekend to enjoys it before closing it up for the winter. We live in the Twin Cities area of MN. We just had it opened on Tuesday and on first look the water was very clear! After 24 hrs of the pump running I took a sample in to my pool installer since my test kit hadn't arrived yet. They do the BioGuard Water Analysis. Here are the results...

ph 7.5
FC 2.2
TC 2.4
Adj. TA 177
TH 293
CYA 75
TDS 600
Optimizer Plus 3
Metals 0.6

I have highlighted in red what was red on the report. They told me that everything was good and that all I needed to do was add the initial dose of the algae Back Up 2. I have a whole bunch of chemicals they left me last fall to use...pucks, shock, etc...They put some pucks in my skimmers already. Any advice on my initial numbers? I am looking to learn as much as possible so I will be scouring the forums in the mean time. Thanks for any advice you have!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome back to another pool season. Well, yes ..... I have a few comments about the advice you were provided, so here we go:
- Pool store advice is seldom spot-on, in fact more times than not it's incorrect. I'll show you why (assuming those test numbers actually are correct).
- You have an elevated Combined Chlorine (CC) level (TC - FC = CC). This indicates excessive organic material in the water and the potential for algae.
- Your CYA is exceptionally high, and using chlorine tabs only increases it to the point you need to do a water exchange.
- Tabs/pucks are acidic and should never be placed in the skimmer. Again, sold on the advice of the store who will tell you soon to drain the water because of those tabs (CYA).

So I see you're waiting on your K-2006 to arrive correct? Here's what you should do:
- Remove the tabs/pucks. Store them dry for some other time in the future. For now, just add regular bleach to the water; about 1 gallon per day based on the size of your pool.
- Once your K-2006 arrives, post full set of your results. If your CYA is over 90, consider doing the diluted CYA test from the TFP Pool School - CYA page that starts on step 8. Everything we advise for your water hinges on that CYA.
- Don't add any algaecides or similar products. Often times those products add copper metals to the water that can only be removed by changing water.

That's it for now. Once your kit arrives, we can get very specific. Remember, the only things you should generally ever need for your pool can be found on the Recommended Chemicals page (link below). For now, relax and save your time & effort until you kit arrives. You'll see a big difference once it does. Have a nice evening.

 

[lmisko]

So I got my kit today and did my first test. Here are my results so far.

PH 7.5~7.6
FC 4
CC .4
CYA...this is a tough test to read. I did it twice. I got 50 & 40 but I am still not confident in my reading. any tips?

 

[Texas Splash]

That was fast! Okay, so let's start with the CYA test:

Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Taylor recommends standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body. Use the mixing bottle to combine/gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Then, while holding the skinny tube with the black dot at waist level, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. After the first test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate the CYA reading.

The others appear to be okay for now, but let's see if those CYA notes help you.

 

[lmisko]

So, in my kitchen on a dark cold rainy day in Minnesota is probably not the best testing conditions. Point taken. Thanks for the help Texas Splash!

 

[Texas Splash]

So, in my kitchen on a dark cold rainy day in Minnesota is probably not the best testing conditions.

Bwaaahaahaa! Nope, not ideal. Since it's cloudy outside - wait. It's too important to guess. For now, make sure your FC doesn't drop below 4. You could even raise it to about 6-7 with regular bleach until you are able to confirm the CYA.

 

[lmisko]

Update:

TA - 250 Is this basically (no pun intended) a bicarbonate buffer to keep the pH stable?
CH - 220 (this doesn't really seem too important with a vinyl pool)

 

[Texas Splash]

TA - 250 Is this basically (no pun intended) a bicarbonate buffer to keep the pH stable?
CH - 220 (this doesn't really seem too important with a vinyl pool)

Correct & correct. Baking soda is simply sodium bicarbonate. If yours is testing at 250, it's elevated (common in your area) which will allow pH to drift higher quicker. After you confirm the CYA and we get you on track to ensure there is no algae, you can later consider lowering TA by following the TFP Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity page. But we'll worry about that afterwards.

 

[lmisko]

One test this morning and then one an hour or so after adding a gallon of Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid from Walmart. Looks like it's 10% hypochlorite. CC was 1.0 both times. Is that what I am smelling?

 

[Texas Splash]

Usually when you smell something, it's the combined chlorines being processes and oxidized. That can be a good thing actually letting you know the chlorine is doing its job.

 

[lmisko]

Good to know. Is 1.0 considered " "high" for CC? I know I am shooting for 0 obviously. Just trying to get a relative idea. Also, I backwashed for the first time today. Will that lower my cya over time appreciably if I do it weekly? This is assuming I don't use the pucks anymore. Which I won't.

 

[Texas Splash]

Is 1.0 considered " "high" for CC?

Yes, anything over 0.5 is concerning. But don't get too wrapped-up in that item alone right now. Sometimes the CC can spike for a good reason as it is working hard to relieve the pool of waste. Watching all the levels, clarity of the water, and significant drops in FC are most concerning. Yes, CYA will slowly lower over time as backwashes are performed ... along with cannonballs (splashout), but it's not a huge drop. It takes a bit of time. Usually if you test CYA about once a month you are okay unless you had a major water exchange for some reason. So once you get the MN sunshine to peek out, make sure about that CYA and then balance your FC to the proper level based on that CYA as noted on the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below). If you ever have doubt about the condition of water or how fast bleach (FC) gets used-up, let us know or perform an overnight (OCLT) test of your own.

 

[lmisko]

Whelp, I just tested again about 7hrs later and found my FC went up to 9 and my CC went down to 0.5. Odd. Perhaps I tested too soon earlier. Regardless I seem to be getting the hang of this testing. As a chemistry teacher it is right up my alley! Thanks so much for your advice and patience with all my questions Texas Splash. I will report back with a CYA test as soon as I seen the sun again. Or if anything else crazy happens!