- Apr 6, 2020
- 53
- Pool Size
- 19000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Ok so results are in:Yes, the more results the better especially when the readings are inconsistent.
Maybe your test kit is off for some reason.
Maybe the drops are too big from your bottle and you need a new dropper tip.
Pool store 2, Tracer pocket tester salt pen - 2450ppm
Pool store 2, AccuBlue - 1792 ppm
Pool store 2, K1766 - 2600ppm
My new K1766 purchased from pool store 2 - 2600ppm
So I guess my K1766 from Amazon is bad (figures). This was an out-of-cycle purchase for me, otherwise I would’ve bought from tf test kits.
So if we adjust the entry for fill water from 400ppm to 173ppm (sum of averages of sodium and chloride from water report), then that puts me at 2564ppm which agrees much better with the results from the salt pen, the two other K1766’s, and the Intellichlor. Sweet.350 lbs of salt should raise the salinity by 2,200 ppm in 19,000 gallons.
2 gallons of 31.45% HCl is equivalent to 9.76 pounds of NaCl, which should add 61 ppm.
12 gallons of liquid chlorine (12.5%) should add 130 ppm.
So, 400 + 2,200 + 61 + 130 = 2,791 ppm.
Salt comes in 40 pound bags, so you added 8.75 bags of salt?
So add more salt. But how much? Assuming a fill water salt level of 173ppm, and knowing I only get a few inches of rain a year and not much splash out, I expect my salt level to drift up over time from topping off with (softened) tap water. If true, should I target 3000ppm initially and watch it for a year or two, or am I compromising cell efficiency too much?
I’d like to avoid drain/refills to the extent practical, if only because it bothers my wife a little more than it bothers me.