Brainstorming options to aerate (to lower TA) and improve water clarity.

[sl7vk]

Hello, Thomas' wife speaking
Last night:
FC 3 ppm
CC less than 0.5ppm
pH 7.5
this morning:
TA 180-190ppm
CH 600-625ppm
SWG 10%
I am currently battling some water chemistry troubles. We turned off the SWG for a few days by mistake and it resulted in cloudy water and low to nil chlorine levels.
I shocked the pool with HASA (2 bottles) and turned the chlorinator back on asap. We are now measuring 3 ppm of FC. unfortunately, although not as cloudy as previously the water still doesn't sparkle. (In the mean time, I had gone to several pool stores where I got tons of contradictory info, test results that I could not replicate in the slightest with my TFP kits and was sold a phosphate remover and three bags of Oxysheen. I haven't touched the phosphate remover and used 1.5 bags of oxysheen with no effect, besides making Chlorine reading inaccurate for 72 hours as per package, my chlorine measurement is from before I added the packages).

While testing the water comprehensively, I realized that the CYA added when the pool was opened this spring must have been very insufficient because it was not measuring. I added the required amount of liquid $$$ clarifier to remedy this and climb to 70 ppm. I am brushing every hour. A sample measures 38ppm after one hour.

While testing I found out two more inconvenient facts:
TA 180-190 (tap water 90-100)
CH 600-625 (tap water 275ppm)

As per PoolMath app, I need to deal with our TA to have acceptable CSI without draining 46% of the pool. Lowering the TA even to 150ppm would help my CSI.

We have an inground Spa that equalizes with the pool, would turning Spa mode on and leaving it uncovered for one hour have any effect on the overall pool TA, if I add acid? is it just futile and a waste of electricity? Should we instead build a PVC "fountain" to attach to our returns? I am concerned that the fact the pool is covered 95% of the time does not help our aeration...

Any and all thoughts appreciated!

Juliette

 

[jeffchap]

I would not drain to lower TA. Raising the pH through aeration and then lowering it with muriatic acid will also lower the TA.

But you can deal with that later. If your pool went for a couple of days without any chlorine and the water is now cloudy, you need to perform a SLAM to clear that up first.

 

[sl7vk]

Reading a few more threads lead me to measure my ammonia levels, we have 0.5ppm level of ammonia. I am not sure if that is acceptable or high. In an aquarium I would act. I am going to go gather SLAM supplies ie. Chlorine.

 

[duraleigh]

Stay out of ALL the pool stores! Report all your test results so we can help.....including the current look of your water.

Get ready to SLAM your pool.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I realized that the CYA added when the pool was opened this spring must have been very insufficient because it was not measuring. I added the required amount of liquid $$$ clarifier to remedy this and climb to 70 ppm.

You meant to say "liquid conditioner" and not "clarifier"...right??

Maddie

 

[sl7vk]

You meant to say "liquid conditioner" and not "clarifier"...right??

Maddie

Yes Maddie you are correct.

 

[sl7vk]

Stay out of ALL the pool stores! Report all your test results so we can help.....including the current look of your water.

Get ready to SLAM your pool.

I cannot agree more about the pool stores... I just went to HD to stock up on chlorine.

So here we go:


I started SLAM one hour ago.
took a FC and CC test right before I started and I was back at 0 FC

added 3 gallons of chlorine bleach 7.5% as per SLAM table and POOLMATH.
waited 1.5 hour

test:
FC: 10
CC: .5

So not SLAM level yet but getting there.

Water appearance is a bit cloudy, like a very light milk tint. Very easy to see the bottom, can see tiny details on bottom plaster but not as clear as I know it can be. Should I turn off SWG during SLAM (it is running at 10%)?