Booster pump and waterfall plumbing questions

[NewPoolGirlTX]

Waterfall: I have a two way valve plumbed into the return line to my waterfall. Why would I ever want that shut off? The old waterfall was a natural looking rock one, so maybe it was to allow a trickle to full power, but my new waterfall would look silly with a trickle. Do I need a valve there at all?

Booster pump (see pics): The new heater is installed and I now have a heater bypass. The tab chlorinator is gone. I'm thinking I could plumb the booster pump into the return line after the bypass valve (second pic at the red x). If I did that, Do I even need a valve where the yellow circle is, and could the red circle then become a simple valve like the blue ones?

Terrible ideas or would they work to simplify my system here.
As always, my undying gratitude!!
~Marci

 

[HermanTX]

Waterfall: I have a two way valve plumbed into the return line to my waterfall. Why would I ever want that shut off? The old waterfall was a natural looking rock one, so maybe it was to allow a trickle to full power, but my new waterfall would look silly with a trickle. Do I need a valve there at all?

A 2-way valve controls the amount of flow in that line. If you do not need to do that then remove the valve. I have a separate pump for my waterfall and I do not have a valve, it just flows at full flow When i turn it on.

Booster pump (see pics): The new heater is installed and I now have a heater bypass. The tab chlorinator is gone. I'm thinking I could plumb the booster pump into the return line after the bypass valve (second pic at the red x). If I did that, Do I even need a valve where the yellow circle is, and could the red circle then become a simple valve like the blue ones?

Connecting the suction line at the red X to the booster pump looks fine. At the valve circled in Yellow - there is a pipe going straight down - is this a return to the pool?

The valve in the RED circle looks like it allows flow back to the suction side of pump. that is not a usual.Hookup. Why do you have that?

I would alawys use diverter valves and stay away from the PVC valves with blue and red handles. They tend to seize up over time and they are not repairable other than to cut them out. A diverter valve is repairable without removing the body.

 

[NewPoolGirlTX]

Yes yellow is the return line to the pool

Red and the horizontal connection is the problem. Why I have it? Because my pool guys apparently didn't always know what they were doing.

My amateur understanding is you'd never want that red valve horizontal to be open, lest you get unfiltered water into the booster pump

So I think you confirmed my thoughts and I thank you!

And thank you for the valve recommendation. I appreciate that as well.
Learning as I go,
Marci in Austin

 

[HermanTX]

My amateur understanding is you'd never want that red valve horizontal to be open, lest you get unfiltered water into the booster pump

Actually if you open that RED diverter valve, you would reduce flow back to your pool and some flow would just circulate on the pad.
I have seen that by another forum member as well and it is unconventional.
If you move that suction line for the booster pump to that pipe with the red X, then I would cut that Tee out and glue a cap fitting onto that RED diverted valve. This would ensure that the water would not exit from the heater and go directly to the suction of the Main pump if that RED diverter valve would inadvertently be moved to open.

Overall you are on the right track and you have done well with the heater bypass.

 

[NewPoolGirlTX]

Actually if you open that RED diverter valve, you would reduce flow back to your pool and some flow would just circulate on the pad.
I have seen that by another forum member as well and it is unconventional.
If you move that suction line for the booster pump to that pipe with the red X, then I would cut that Tee out and glue a cap fitting onto that RED diverted valve. This would ensure that the water would not exit from the heater and go directly to the suction of the Main pump if that RED diverter valve would inadvertently be moved to open.

Overall you are on the right track and you have done well with the heater bypass.

Interesting

I thought the red valve should be two way and the only reason to have it off would be to shut off the floor suction and only pull from the skimmers

And capping it would be easier than replacing the 3 way with a two way

Thank you!

 

[HermanTX]

Interesting

I thought the red valve should be two way and the only reason to have it off would be to shut off the floor suction and only pull from the skimmers

And capping it would be easier than replacing the 3 way with a two way

Thank you!

Right now it is closed off to the pipe where your booster pump suction is connected. If you cut that out and cap that end, the valve should be able to turn vertical to close off the main drain suction. You could replace it with a 2-way valve, it would look neater and still allow you to close off the suction from the main drain.

FYI - i run my main drain at 25% open and the skimmer is full open. This way, I always have some suction from the main drain for any debris accumulating on the bottom.