Blowing out lines - Central New York

Mar 27, 2017
36
Syracuse, New York
First year closing my pool - here's what I've done. Looking for help on blowing out lines.

Pools is vinyl, 1 skimmer, 1 main drain in deep end, 2 returns. Hayward sand filter, Hayward pump, Hayward HeatPro heat pump

Day before closing
-Balanced chemicals (PH was high)
-Added a bunch of clorox - probably to about 12 PPM
-FC ~12, CC - 0, CYA - 30, TA - 80, CH - 150

Closing day
-checked FC - negligible overnight loss
-pulled out ladder
-disconnected pump (stored in garage for winter)
-connected shopvac to return lines - blew out both, plugged returns
-disconnect shopvac, added antifreeze to return, realized antifreeze was stuck in heater isolation loop
-tried to shopvac the antifreeze further into the line, hose blew off and antifreeze sprays everywhere, oops
-
opened returns slightly, turned shopvac back on, blew lines until a little anti freeze came out, replugged lines.
-put gizmo in the skimmer, connected shopvac to intake lines, blew out skimmer line, plugged gizmo once mist was very fine (do i add antifreeze through gizmo blow out valve?)
-tried to blow out main drain with shopvac - FAIL. I know it's moving some water, because i can hear it refilling the line
-went to lowes, bought a 2 gallon 300 psi pancake air compressor
-tried to duct tape air compressor to main drain line - it blows out the main drain but loses pressure to fast because, well, duct tape isn't air tight.
-give up for the day.

My questions:
-I learned I can hook the air compressor directly into the pump drain - so i'll have to reconnect the pump. But if I do it this way, how would I go about adding antifreeze?
-Is the method i used to get antifreeze into the returns okay? do i need to do anything further to them?
-with the gizmo, i wasnt planning on lower the water level - is this correct?
-I bought a winterizing pill with good reviews on amazon - can i just follow the directions on the box? usually pros add algecide, is that needed?

Any tips overall? Is my process overall pretty good?

Thanks guys!
 
Please put back the pump in the system. There is no need to bring the pump indoors, as you saw that this caused a slight problem. Also, you will have to hook up electricity and bonding wire all over again. Please read through my post below. I would suggest you start all over and work with an NPT fitting. In the thread, you will find a link to a friendly debate and Mas985 explains that you do not need a lot of pressure to clear out the main drain. You should be successful with the air compressor, but the process will take you a little longer. Isolate each area with shut off valves if you have them at the equipment pad through the plumbing.

Once you close the skimmers and return lines, you can pour antifreeze directly into the plumbing at the pump (again depending on your setup, etc.) Do you have any unions at the pad that can be taken apart afterwards for antifreeze? You are in a way colder climate than I am, so antifreeze is a good idea.

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool
 
I was wondering if I should start over with the air compressor. The shopvac worked well, but it seems like opening everything back up and hooking the compressor into the pump just makes things simpler. Yeah, I read that you only really need like 10 PSI for 8ft of water, so I'll crank down the pressure.

Here's how the plumbing goes....

-Skimmer and main drain merge at a valve that lets me select either one, merged, or off.
-Union
-From there the merged line goes to the pump
-Pump is connected to filter with flex PVC and clamps
-Filter
-Union
-Drops down to bottom of heater isolate loop
-Heater
-Top of heater isolation loop
-Head down underground - y splitter on the way down for water slide (can remove a 1.5" fitting)
-Splits underground to go to the two returns.

I guess I don't really understand how I can blow out a line with everything hooked up and air compressor attached to the pump, and STILL add antifreeze to the lines.

I skimmed your linked post, it's getting late so I'll read it thoroughly tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply man.
 
I guess I don't really understand how I can blow out a line with everything hooked up and air compressor attached to the pump, and STILL add antifreeze to the lines.

Before installing the Gizzmo on the skimmer, you can pour directly into the line (1 gallon at most should be sufficient). If you lowered your water below the skimmer, then the skimmer housing should be completely dry, especially if you used a shop vacuum to remove water as you are clearing the skimmer line.

After you cleared the main drain, lock with air and shut off the compressor. Now come back and open up the pump basket and pour antifreeze in there. Close the lid and clear out the main drain line again and lock with air one more time (make sure that MPV is on closed) so air only travels to MD and skimmers are closed as well with valve (which you have). Turn valve the other way and skimmer is open but MD is now locked.

More on to the returns next. Clear the return lines and close them off first. Then open the pump cover and plug the suction side with black plug so as you blow air it will only travel in one direction. Then pour antifreeze in the pump basket again and turn compressor on and open last return jet in the pool and wait another minute or so or until you see antifreeze coming out. Quickly plug the line and shut off air compressor. Now you have antifreeze in these lines as well.

No easy way to do this, but at least some antifreeze is in all the lines. Hopefully this makes sense.
 
Before installing the Gizzmo on the skimmer, you can pour directly into the line (1 gallon at most should be sufficient). If you lowered your water below the skimmer, then the skimmer housing should be completely dry, especially if you used a shop vacuum to remove water as you are clearing the skimmer line.

After you cleared the main drain, lock with air and shut off the compressor. Now come back and open up the pump basket and pour antifreeze in there. Close the lid and clear out the main drain line again and lock with air one more time (make sure that MPV is on closed) so air only travels to MD and skimmers are closed as well with valve (which you have). Turn valve the other way and skimmer is open but MD is now locked.

More on to the returns next. Clear the return lines and close them off first. Then open the pump cover and plug the suction side with black plug so as you blow air it will only travel in one direction. Then pour antifreeze in the pump basket again and turn compressor on and open last return jet in the pool and wait another minute or so or until you see antifreeze coming out. Quickly plug the line and shut off air compressor. Now you have antifreeze in these lines as well.

No easy way to do this, but at least some antifreeze is in all the lines. Hopefully this makes sense.

Thanks for all the help, I think I'm in a good spot now - but I couldn't get antifreeze in the main drain, and I had a really hard time getting it into the returns. I think I'm going to pull apart some plumbing next spring and add a junction in a more convenient spot. But all the lines blew out quite easily using the pancake compressor.

The skimmer line was still dry from my first attempt - I redid it to be safe and added some antifreeze. I did NOT lower the water level, so there is still water in the skimmer with the gizmo. That's how it was closed when we bought the place, and that seemed to work. I did get the skimmer with the included blow out valve, and that worked really well.

Main drain blew very easily - I turned the intake selector to "off" but was not super confident that it was air locked with that alone, so I also put a rubber plug in the intake side of the pump. I let it sit like that for a while, then did the whole process again. Pretty confident it is air locked at this point. For the returns, I left the rubber plug in the intake side of the pump, and just blew out the lines. Used plumbing tape on a some normal plugs, with rubber seals, and screwed them onto the jets/returns. I tried to get some antifreeze in the line, but again made a mess trying to get it through the heater isolation loop so I just gave up on that idea. There's probably SOME in there. Next year I'll add easier access to add to the return lines.

I should also add that all I did for the heater was to leave the lines open while blowing out the appropriate section, and then turned off the ball valves from the isolation loop. Should I do anything else besides pull power to it?
 
tbkurtz:

First, close the pool without antifreeze. Then open up basket and pour antifreeze in the lines or basket with a funnel. Now turn the blower back on and remove the last plug and clear the line for another 15-30 seconds. It will shoot the antifreeze in the lines. When you see antifreeze coming out, then plug again quickly and the solution will stay in the line (No need to start cutting up piping).

Then shut off the MPV to closed. Open basket, add more antifreeze. Then clear the main drain again, and air lock one more time. This is a 2 person closing if with adding antifreeze. The main drain, once locked, if opened air will be released defeating the purpose. Has to be done quickly.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.