Best way to connect and seal hoses?

LauleaHere&There

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2010
155
Rural Moloka'i, Hawai'i
These are standard corrugated pool hoses that slide and clamp onto a male cone adapter. My instructions said not to use sealant. "It will leak!", they said. I think I've redone every connection at least once, and now that the pool is full and chemically balanced, it's a real pain when one blows. I managed to stuff the dog's tennis ball into the bottom of the skimmer to stem the tide once, but plugging the eyeball securely is a lot trickier.

So--what's the best way? Especially in a wet situation? My most successful joins have been dry, pressure free, and cured for 24 hrs. I'd really hate to drain the pool down to below the eyeball...
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,067
Houston, Texas
If the return opening is threaded (on the pool side) you can get a threaded plug to screw into the opening. Same with the opening at the bottom of the skimmer basket. If they are not threaded, you can go to the hardware store and in the pvc fittings there will be a selection of "slip" plugs. (slip plugs just slide into the end of the opening) For either type of plug match the size to the size of the opening (1 1/2" pipe needs a 1 1/2" plug). If you use slip plugs rub a little silicone pool lube on the slip end to make it easier to install and remove.

Now what you really need to do is replace the hoses with rigid pvc plumbing. You can add shut off valves and unions to make future maintenance much easier. I recently replaced the hose between the pump and filter with pvc after waking up to find water shooting into the air from a pinhole leak that developed overnight. It wasn't difficult and I have zero piping experience. The only snag was that I cut the last piece of pipe too short. The pipes fit more completely together with the glue to lubricate them!
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,067
Houston, Texas
You have been experiencing one of them, they pop off! If that happens with the pump running and you don't discover it right away you could pump out a good deal of water and possibly burn up you pump motor when it runs dry.

I recently experienced the other reason, they don't last. They will develop holes over time even with perfect water chemistry. If your water tends to be a little "off" it may happen much sooner.

If you want to add cut off valves you need rigid pipe.

Even if this is a seasonal pool that you will taking down for the winter, you can add rigid pipe and unions between the pool and pump/filter pad so that the mechanical equipment can be separated from the pool for storage.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,067
Houston, Texas
You can put them on the vertical run like this or on the horizontal run before the pump (between skimmer and pump) and after the filter or last piece of equipment (between equipment and return).
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,067
Houston, Texas
When you measure the pipe assume it will fit all the way down in the connecting pieces. When the pvc glue is applied the pieces will slide in easily. Unions are good to add. They will let you remove the pump and filter without re-plumbing everything. If I can figure out how my new camera works I will post pictures of my set up.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,067
Houston, Texas
Here is a picture of my set up. You can see the valves before the pump and after the filter. There is a union just after each valve. There used to be a hose between the pump and filter that I recently replaced with pvc. I put a union between the filter and pump, since I may be replacing the pump in the next year or two. Another tip I almost forgot, use teflon pipe putty for any threaded pieces. It will form a nice watertight seal.
 

LauleaHere&There

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2010
155
Rural Moloka'i, Hawai'i
OK, be kind. Here's my mock-up (only the valves are glued). I still have some leveling, etc. to do, but does the basic setup look sound? The curve of my 12' round is pretty strong. That accounts for the angles. Placement of pump and filter are based on walking space around the pool, but can be changed if necessary, i.e. if someone sees a flaw in my design.[attachment=0:1d6o3hmz]pump setup001_edited.JPG[/attachment:1d6o3hmz]
 

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kplaster

Bronze Supporter
Jan 24, 2010
620
Randleman,NC
You are all backward's..Look at the other picture..The pipe with valve's are running to the pool ..Pump& filter need to sit back away from pool..Your back wash outlet& hose need to face away from the pool..Keep it away from the pool..You don't need all the water splashing out on pump..Also..I would build a stand to mount the pump& motor too...If you did not mounted down that's prob..why you are having problem's with blowing hose's off...Plus it cut's down on vibration's to the pump&motor..I would set it off a couple of feet..That's just my opinion..But, the main thing is that you are trying..Good Luck
 

kplaster

Bronze Supporter
Jan 24, 2010
620
Randleman,NC
You should have been a plastic Base that it all mount's too>>>If you haven't had that...That is where your hose problem is from..It has no way of staying stationary.The PVC will crack& leak too if you don't get it to stay put..
 

kplaster

Bronze Supporter
Jan 24, 2010
620
Randleman,NC
I would also put some coupling on it so you can take it apart when winter come's...See photo above ..those screwwyyyy thing's are the coupling's the will come apart...
 

LauleaHere&There

LifeTime Supporter
Aug 2, 2010
155
Rural Moloka'i, Hawai'i
Good thinking! I have seen pump/filter bases, but my set up didn't come with one. I think I can work something out, though. I want to get the pump off the concrete anyway.

Winter? Not here, but I get your point.

Couplings, yes. I intend to put them on. There are three places on the island that sell such things and two of them are out of the size I need. The third opens back up tomorrow.
 
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