Best Test Kit for Phosphates and Nitrates?

Charlie227

Silver Supporter
May 8, 2019
108
Vero Beach, FL
I had my Pentair IChlor30 SWG bucket tested today by a local company. It was putting out plenty of chlorine. So the loss of chlorine has not been the SWG. Problem I have and they tested it... 500+ phosphates and a fairly large amount of nitrates. I don't remember the number, but it was significant on the test strip scale.

I need to monitor this. What is the best test kit for Phosphates and another for Nitrates?

Thank you.
 
Actually, you do NOT need to monitor those as they are meaningless if you are maintaining the appropriate FC levels for your CYA level in the FC/CYA Levels.
I have no idea what either of those levels are in my pool and have not known for 10+ years.

You likely have algae growing and consuming all your FC, or your CYA is WAY too low and the sun is destroying it.

Do you have a full set of test results from your K-2006C?
 
Actually, you do NOT need to monitor those as they are meaningless if you are maintaining the appropriate FC levels for your CYA level in the FC/CYA Levels.
I have no idea what either of those levels are in my pool and have not known for 10+ years.

You likely have algae growing and consuming all your FC, or your CYA is WAY too low and the sun is destroying it.

Do you have a full set of test results from your K-2006C?

You can look through my results in the Pool Math Logs link in my signature. Take a look through the history. The SWG is set at 90% for 12 hours/day and it can't keep up. Pentair said it's the phosphates and Nitrates. I don't see any algae in my pool.
 
Ok, at one point you state that the "water is clear again", did it get cloudy? Perhaps there is a little something growing in the water? Although I do see you passed an OCLT not long ago (although at a much lower FC level than I prefer). Did you turn the SWG off for that OCLT? You did not mention it.

You have constantly been flirting with the minimum FC levels for your CYA (and been way too low the last 5 days ... minimum is 4ppm), so there could just be a little something that requires you to follow the SLAM process for a day or so. You don't have to see algae for it to be in the water.

Phosphates and Nitrates will not consume your FC.
It is algae that consumes the FC and the above just make it easier for it to grow.

If the algae is eradicated and then proper FC levels are maintained, the algae can't grow regardless of the amount of "food" available to them.

Now, lowering the phosphates can make the pool less likely to get algae and insurance against a bloom, but again with proper chlorine it should not be required.

@JoyfulNoise can offer information on phosphate testing and treatment if you want to go that way.

Right now your SWG is added 4.5ppm of FC to your pool, that is a little on the high side, but not out of the rhelm of normal if the water is warm and you get a lot of sun on the pool. You might just need to increase the output.
 
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I would start by performing a SLAM of the pool and then, after you’re sure you are good, set your SWG to add 4ppm/day (PoolMath can give you the settings).

If you want to monitor phosphates, the best kit for doing that is the Taylor K-1106. Nitrates are much harder to measure and the only “simple” drop based one I know of is for aquariums made by API. The only issue with it is that it is not designed for pool water where chlorine is present (the oxidizer messes up the test). It also has fairly wide graduations in the color matching chart so it’s not super accurate.

All water will have nitrates in it (even municipal water) and, if you have a lawn, fertilizer runoff and overspray can always be a problem around pools. Fertilizers provoke algae blooms but proper sanitizer levels will keep them in check. Lowering phosphates is certainly possible but, if your source water has phosphates added to it (many municipal suppliers use phosphates for corrosion control), then you’re just spinning your wheels.

Finally, 500ppb is really NOT a high phosphate load. Over 3000ppb (3ppm) might be worrisome, but 500ppb is really not.
 
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New test results just now in log.

The addition of liquid chlorine helped get my level back. The water is cloudy from the phosphate remover I added this afternoon.

Pentair says the problem with the SWG not keeping up are the phosphates an nitrates. They recommend less than 125 phosphates and 0 nitrates. Your thoughts?
 
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What time does the log read in your app? It says 10PM when I view through the Log link from my PC.

Anyway, not sure what that new log is supposed to tell us. It is clear you have not started the SLAM process. And that you have now added some phosphate remover (which may or may not be one of the good ones that is not watered down)
 
You would think a company like Pentair would know something about pool water chemistry........they don't. The two folks advising you have forgotten more about pool water chemistry than Pentair knows. Phosphates are another bogus attempt to get your money and the folks at Pentair you have been talking to apparently have taken the bait.

At some point, you will have to decide between Pentairs advice and TFP's

I would suggest you please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You will learn that chlorine is your biggest friend and you will also learn some truths about phosphates.
 
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You would think a company like Pentair would know something about pool water chemistry........they don't. The two folks advising you have forgotten more about pool water chemistry than Pentair knows. Phosphates are another bogus attempt to get your money and the folks at Pentair you have been talking to apparently have taken the bait.

At some point, you will have to decide between Pentairs advice and TFP's

I would suggest you please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You will learn that chlorine is your biggest friend and you will also learn some truths about phosphates.

Thank you
 
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