Hello, I just tested my water using Taylor kit and my Alkalinity is 240 and PH is 8.0 I have added 1 lb dry Ph down yesterday evening, and Today 6 hours ago I added 1 Quart of Muriatic Acid, I am not seeing any changes? The pump is running SWG but I don't have the Salt generator turned on since we shocked it 2 days ago for the intial start-up. Can you Please advise if I need to pour the WHOLE darn Gallon in it? I'm so Frustrated right now and we have 2 1/2 - 3 inches of rain coming tomorrow!!! Intex Ultra Frame 22x 52 is the size
Balancing Water
- Thread starter SissyDee
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!Enter all your test results in PoolMath and set a target of say 7.5 for the pH and it will calculate how much MA is required.
Your TA is rather high, but more important to keep adequate FC in the water as a function of your CYA level. See FC/CYA Levels.
What does the water look like? We generally do not "shock a pool" for start up. We recommend following the SLAM Process process as needed.
Once everything else is balanced, you can consider Lowering Your Total Alkalinity
Welcome! Echoing what jblizzle said, go over the Pool School section of the site and familiarize yourself with each chemical and how they interact with your pool water, and what they do. There is also a Pool Math Calculator you can use on this website. It’s very advantageous!
Perhaps I should have started you off with this link to help you understand our methods here: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Enter all your test results in PoolMath and set a target of say 7.5 for the pH and it will calculate how much MA is required.
Your TA is rather high, but more important to keep adequate FC in the water as a function of your CYA level. See FC/CYA Levels.
What does the water look like? We generally do not "shock a pool" for start up. We recommend following the SLAM Process process as needed.
Once everything else is balanced, you can consider Lowering Your Total Alkalinity
I added 2 of these because it had a bunch of debris/leaves and started running the pump 3 days ago, It was also turning green from removing the tarp that day.
here's a pic from a few minutes ago you can see I still have some nasty stuff I have been sweeping it daily several times just trying to get the alkalinity down so the ph will come down?
Can you post all your test results?
Because if FC > 10, you're getting a falsely high pH reading as shown in the pictures here: Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?
Because if FC > 10, you're getting a falsely high pH reading as shown in the pictures here: Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?
FC= 0, TC =0 CYA 60 ? PH 8.0 TA 240 Using Taylor-2005 Complete High Test kit I haven't turned on the Salt water Generator yet! Thank you so much!
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You really need to add the FAS-DPD chlorine test to your kit to get the equivalent to the K-2006.
#1 Keep the chlorine above 5ppm for your CYA of 60ppn until you start up the SWG.
Then target a pH of 7.5 or so to lower the pH. Do not worry about adjusting the TA at this point.
#1 Keep the chlorine above 5ppm for your CYA of 60ppn until you start up the SWG.
Then target a pH of 7.5 or so to lower the pH. Do not worry about adjusting the TA at this point.
I thought Shock was part of Slam?
Enter all your test results in PoolMath and set a target of say 7.5 for the pH and it will calculate how much MA is required.
Your TA is rather high, but more important to keep adequate FC in the water as a function of your CYA level. See FC/CYA Levels.
What does the water look like? We generally do not "shock a pool" for start up. We recommend following the SLAM Process process as needed.
Once everything else is balanced, you can consider Lowering Your Total Alkalinity
Did you test your water prior to adding chlorine, and then determine the target FC level based on your CYA level, and then use Pool Math to determine how much chlorine to add to reach that target, and then test often and add more chlorine as required to maintain that FC, and then pass all 3 criteria to stop maintaining that FC level? If not, you did not follow the SLAM process.
High TA causes the pH to rise faster, it does not CAUSE high pH.
Keeping the pH in range is more important than keeping the TA in a certain range.
And thus, adjusting the TA takes a backseat until you have a balance pool and have nothing better to do
Very Good Thank you for Being Quite Helpful! Until it stops raining I am not adjusting anything at this TimeHigh TA causes the pH to rise faster, it does not CAUSE high pH.
Keeping the pH in range is more important than keeping the TA in a certain range.
And thus, adjusting the TA takes a backseat until you have a balance pool and have nothing better to do
No It was filthy so I added shock first thing to keep it from turning green and slimy! I am sure I didn't do it right, but just trying to get it cleaned first! Been running the pump and backwashing for now... Won't really start Balancing until later this week! Thank you for Helping me and Pointing me in the Right Direction!Did you test your water prior to adding chlorine, and then determine the target FC level based on your CYA level, and then use Pool Math to determine how much chlorine to add to reach that target, and then test often and add more chlorine as required to maintain that FC, and then pass all 3 criteria to stop maintaining that FC level? If not, you did not follow the SLAM process.
I am going to try and order this kit, My kit Taylor- 2005 Reagants had expired in april of this year so NO TELLING what the True readings are! AGAIN, Thank you so much for Helping me!