Balanced water

[bethers0811]

Once u get ur TA, PH, AND CH within range, do all u need to do then is just manage ur FC? What I am trying to say is do things eventually balance out so that u are not decreasing PH, raising TA......

 

[JoyfulNoise]

If you're lowering pH to the point where you're causing your TA to get too low, then, as the kids these days say, "you're doing it wrong...". Not all pools will have stable, unchanging pH. I have to add acid regularly to my pool but do so in a way that tends to not change the TA much over time so, on average, I don't have to add any baking soda to the water just small regular doses of acid to keep the pH in check. But it all depends on a lot of factors.

The best way for TFP to help you is if you post a full set of water test results for your pool water. Then, if you could also test the water you use to fill the pool with, that would help too. For the fill water, only pH, TA and CH matter, you can ignore any chlorine and there's no CYA in it.

Also, how do you chlorinate your swimming pool?

 

[bethers0811]

I use liquid chlorine. I added 5 pounds of PH down this morning and just retested. Here are my numbers:
FC 4
CC 0
TC 3
CH 150
TA 100 (this is what I am trying to get in range per the pool math app; 50 to 90 it says)
PH 7.2
CYA

Do i need to worry about getting the PH down more. I want to be as balanced as possible as this is my first summer with a pool....

 

[kabutotx]

abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
What is your CYA? That tells us what the FC should be.
Test your fill water TA. If it is high it will just keep going up.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

So how stable is your pH? There is no such thing as perfectly balanced or a specific TA number that absolutely needs to be maintained. The best TA value to maintain is the one that keeps your pH rise or fall stable over time. So if your pH is rising with a TA at 100ppm, then lower it. If your pH is falling over time (which it really shouldn't with liquid chlorine sanitation), then your TA is too low and it needs to be raised. Chances are if you lower your TA to 60-80ppm, you're going to find that your pH stays fairly constant. There's no reason to target a pH below 7.5, for most pools that is just too low and leads to excessive CO2 outgassing and more acid use. Here's something to try - let your pH come up and don't add acid until it goes past 7.8. Then, when you lower it, only use enough acid to get to a pH of 7.6. Then see how long it takes to get to 7.8. If that transition from 7.6 to above 7.8 is too fast for you, then lower the TA. I bet you'll find a good TA that lets your water "stick" at a pH of 7.7 for a long time.

Also, word of advice, stop using the dry acid. It more expensive than muriatic acid and the build up of sulfates in pool water from it can lead to damaged concrete and corrosion of metal surfaces (handrails, ladders, etc). It's also really bad for SWGs...most of the owner manuals for them will specifically warn against using dry acid for pH control. Muriatic acid is best for pH control.

 

[bethers0811]

Sorry, CYA 50. I just started balancing a month back, new pool. I have been doing all the test daily and writing results down so I can look back and see trends. I only started doing this a week back. I seem to loose 2 PPM FC per day which has me adding 2 quarts of bleach daily. I am in Georgia and the heat is what I think must be doing that. Should I try getting my TA within range or leaving it where it is? Where can u get liquids Muratic acid?

 

[domct203]

Once u get ur TA, OH, AND CH within range, do all u need to do then is just manage ur FC? .....

Do i need to worry about getting the RE down more. I want to be as balanced as possible as this is my first summer with a pool....

What do you mean by "OH" & "RE" ?

 

[bethers0811]

Corrected!