Balance tanks

[mas985]

The deeper the loop (pipe), the greater the pressure; the point of this is that it makes it more difficult for the pump to pull the water through the lines, and the outcome is that the pump is not able to evacuate the pipe (gutter) completely? It will never clear all the water out of the gutter- at least at one time? I understand now what you meant by it slows the circulation to a virtually stagnant state.

More or less. It is really about the pressure difference from the top of the pipe to the bottom of the pipe. The gutter is at 0 PSI so in order to hold up the column of water, the pressure at the bottom of the pipe must be at a positive pressure or all the water will drain from the pipe. The higher the pressure, the higher the column of water. The pump and plumbing just determine the pressure at the vent pipe connection point.

-Forget recirculating completely and have the gutter drain to the street.
-Connect the gutter drain to my autofill return and deal with water sitting in the gutter when the pool is not in use.
-Dig a very deep hole to make a plumbing loop and connect to the equipment.
-Make the gutter a constantly recirculating gutter by lowering flagstone on the beach and finding a new product to make the grates from.

I wouldn't bother with the loop because it really isn't any better than connecting the drain through the autofill. It will remove the water out of the gutter during pump run time, but it really isn't circulating that water. Initially, I proposed it because if there was any dirt in the lines it would drop to the main drain suction line and get swept away. But it isn't a very large benefit and it doesn't solve the idle pool situation.

But one modification you could make to the autofill method is to plumb another return into the gutter at a very low flow rate so as to have water always flowing through the gutter whenever the pump turns on. It doesn't need to be much at all. This would have the benefit of keeping the autofill chlorinated as well. I have to add small tablets to mine to keep the bugs from moving in and algae from growing.

 

[Terry]

But one modification you could make to the autofill method is to plumb another return into the gutter at a very low flow rate so as to have water always flowing through the gutter whenever the pump turns on. It doesn't need to be much at all. This would have the benefit of keeping the autofill chlorinated as well. I have to add small tablets to mine to keep the bugs from moving in and algae from growing.

Excellent idea! I think you’ve found the perfect solution; recycles the overspill and moves the water in the gutter on a daily basis.

I do have a return line that runs to the bubblers plumbed right in front of the beach. If I can tap into that line, I’ll have very little pipe to run at all in this little project.

Do you have any suggestions on running it? If I use a small pipe, say ¼”, tee’d off the 1.5” pipe would that result in a low enough flow, or would I still need to put in a valve. I may be able to hide a small valve in some of the rock work that will be put in at the ends of the gutter and would save me from running all the way back to the pad.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I know Mark has you covered, but I think I'd run either 1/4" or 3/8" tubing tapped off the bubbler piping and not worry about a valve. There'll be enough flow through the tubing to keep the gutter chlorinated but not enough to have to worry about controlling it.

 

[mas985]

My only concern with tubing would be reliability. If the tap point will be easily accessible and the tubing can be replaced when it fails then I would say tubing is fine. If it is going to be under a deck and you need it to last a really long time, then you might consider a 1/2" PVC pipe teed into the bubbler with its own valve. But you will need access to the valve.