Autocover bonding

yankeelawyer

0
Bronze Supporter
Jun 21, 2016
119
Virginia
Does anyone have a photo showing how to bond a Coverstar autocover (specifically, the steel brackets that support a walk on lid?)

We are finishing up our pool build (in ground with Coverstar autocover) and during the final inspection, our inspector noticed the brackets for the cover lid were not bonded. The bonding wire is attached to the Coverstar mechanism lugs at both ends, but the manufacturer requires that any brackets over 4 inches (ours are 13) also be bonded. The installation manuals clearly state that but do not specify where to attach the additional lugs. The only other reference to it I could find was in a 2009 notice regarding a design change of the brackets to include a hole for a bonding lug (with no illustration, though I think it is a hole on the part of the bracket that attaches to the pit wall).

The PB is unfamiliar with this requirement but our inspector flagged it during the final inspection (as did a master electrician who looked at it and some other issues we are having).

TIA!
 
Wrapping the bond wire around a nut doesn't comply with code. The inspector may bounce that.

The code requires that the listed bonding lug be attached to the item to be bonded, generally using a bolted or screwed connection. And that the bonding wire be attached to the lug and screw tightened.
This is an acceptable bonding lug: Blackburn Copper Lay-In Lug Connector for #4 to #14 Wire (Case of 10)-CULL4-14-B2-10 - The Home Depot That is an example, there are other acceptable listed bonding lugs.

The lug can be attached to the metal anywhere it doesn't affect function of the equipment. It can be bolted on or attached with a machine crew (so long as two ridges contact the material)
 
Wow, thanks everyone! That was really helpful. So this is what we came up with last night (photos below). The support part of the brackets have an extra hole that seems to accommodate a lug (after tapping it for screws). I did see somewhere that NEC requires at least 2 threads on the hole and that the screw should not be the self-tapping type for sheet metal, fwiw, so we tapped the hole and used a regular stainless steel screw. Because all the brackets are already installed in the cover pit, we have no access to the back of the bracket so unfortunately nuts were not an option to hold it together.

Do you happen to know if this type of copper lug is acceptable? We picked it because it matched the type provided by the manufacturer for the cover mechanism ends. Unfortunately, the manufacturer's manual does not provide photos of bonding the brackets.

Thanks!!


bracket lug.jpgbracket lug1.jpg

And a photo of the complete bracket set, so you can see where we installed the lug at the bottom on our "prototype":

bracket complete.jpg
 
I'd just show that to the permit/inspector's office. If they agree, then they should also agree when on-site. The only difference it appears, from the other one is it being closed versus open. So you just have to thread the bonding wire through. Not a big deal though.

In the spring, I'll have to look and see if my individual brackets are bonded. I certainly don't recall seeing the copper wire going from bracket to bracket. I know the motor is. And my brackets are identical to yours.
 
The only question a very picky inspector might ask is whether or not the lug is "listed." In English that means it meets a certain standard usually a UL standard. That is what the writing on it tells you. If you purchase from a electrical supply house they will provide you with the listing information. I don't know if HD or Lowes will. A lot of electrical sold online is not listed.

If you purchase from a electrical supply house, HD or Lowes, you are probably fine.
 
Looking at that bonding lug attached to what appears to be stainless steel got me wondering about the potential for galvanic action (corrosion) between dissimilar metals, especially with a salt pool environment. I have attached an article that probably provides more information than any normal person wants to know on the subject, but is interesting reading for those of us with an engineering mindset.

http://www.worldstainless.org/Files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Euro_Inox/Contact_with_Other_EN.pdf

This is something we must be constantly be aware of in commercial construction since "show" or finish metals are often attached to a base metal substrate. Properly isolating these connections is key to longevity, but in the case of a bond connection is exactly the opposite of what is required. I would take a look at the connection each year as part of your maintenance program, but it doesn't seem that this will be a highly reactive joint.
 

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We have the same brackets as you have shown - and we have a wire running to each bracket. The city inspector asked to look at the bond wire on the brackets during our final inspection.

Regarding BigEinAZ comment just above regarding galvanic corrosion; we haven't seen anything in the pit area around the metal brackets and the bond wire in 18 months of use.

However, we have had some heavy corrosion on the metal mesh bonding connection from our the cover to the closure bar. There is a small piece of stainless mesh that is screwed to the cover closure bar, and that screw and the stainless mesh is corroding - on one side my son pulled on the mesh and it tore easily - so we have to screw it back to the aluminum bar at some point...I will probably spray some corrosionX on it when I do my spring tune up.
 
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