Auto fill water source

[Toxophilite]

I’ll have a fluidmaster float valve controlling the autofill.

That's a better float assembly. Tried in my can and liked it, but too tall for lid for how my can was buried. What you will find is that but for times when pool volume is very low or adjusting new limit, it will mostly just trickle fill, like a slow running toilet trying to top off, but in this case, a giant tank to fill.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

That's a better float assembly. Tried in my can and liked it, but too tall for lid for how my can was buried. What you will find is that but for times when pool volume is very low or adjusting new limit, it will mostly just trickle fill, like a slow running toilet trying to top off, but in this case, a giant tank to fill.

My auto fill runs all day, slow trickle. But mine is a very simple bulb float valve, not the toilet tank vertical float Fluidmaster ones. I like mine because they are practically fail proof. There’s really nothing that can break on it except the linchpin and angle adjustment screw (to set the float level). The auto fill line is connected to the water softener and has a 1/4 turn shutoff valve in case I need to kill the water supply.

 

[Toxophilite]

My auto fill runs all day, slow trickle. But mine is a very simple bulb float valve, not the toilet tank vertical float Fluidmaster ones. I like mine because they are practically fail proof. There’s really nothing that can break on it except the linchpin and angle adjustment screw (to set the float level). The auto fill line is connected to the water softener and has a 1/4 turn shutoff valve in case I need to kill the water supply.

I wish my fill line came in horizontal and then the options open up more in brands and type. This thing has been a headache. The Korky brand just does fit if I remove the cap, where my max fill is exactly where it touches the paver lid. I have no upper room to go higher, and accept the max level. The better Fluidmaster is a bit taller, so then can't get the paver lid to close on it. If pool and deck has been 1/8" taller, I would have no issue. I still get that stupid coliform bacteria that develops and only solution has been to keep a piece of broken tab in the can.

 

[factotum44]

Update:
I plumbed the autofill water line today. Took about 10 hours.
-I hope it’s ok the pvc has to bend a little since my trench is crooked.
-I’ll probably lower the backflow preventer. I didn’t realize that I could count the layers of brick on the house to estimate height above the autofill canister.
-I put a control box in to leave access to the autofill stub close to the pool deck.
-I cut my irrigation control wires in two spots and an irrigation line in two spots. I’ll get those fixed with the other irrigation repairs before sod goes in.

I’ll let it cure overnight, install the fluidmaster float, and then check for leaks. Fingers crossed!

 

[JoyfulNoise]

My only critique is this (personal preference) -

1. I would have plumbed the backflow preventer directly to the spigot coming out of the wall. That would have required shutting off the water to the house for a time while adding a longer nipple and tee which is an inconvenience for sure. I would have done all copper pipe above ground and then transitioned to PVC below ground.

2. As you have it plumbed, that backflow preventer is sitting up high above the ground and it’s not anchored to anything solid. All someone has to do is walk over to it and give a slight push and you can easily snap the PVC pipe. I would suggest adding some kind of support to those pipes or cutting it back and moving it closer to the ground. Being above ground like that you are subjecting the metal/PVC transitions to whatever winter cold temps you get in your area. That can lead to leaks. A second option would be to bury it in the ground in a well sealed irrigation box.

Again, those are my personal opinions/preferences so you do what you think is best.

 

[factotum44]

My only critique is this (personal preference) -

1. I would have plumbed the backflow preventer directly to the spigot coming out of the wall. That would have required shutting off the water to the house for a time while adding a longer nipple and tee which is an inconvenience for sure. I would have done all copper pipe above ground and then transitioned to PVC below ground.

2. As you have it plumbed, that backflow preventer is sitting up high above the ground and it’s not anchored to anything solid. All someone has to do is walk over to it and give a slight push and you can easily snap the PVC pipe. I would suggest adding some kind of support to those pipes or cutting it back and moving it closer to the ground. Being above ground like that you are subjecting the metal/PVC transitions to whatever winter cold temps you get in your area. That can lead to leaks. A second option would be to bury it in the ground in a well sealed irrigation box.

Again, those are my personal opinions/preferences so you do what you think is best.

Thank you for your feedback. I agree with everything you wrote and hope to implement your suggestions at some point. Time, experience, and access to a plumber are my current obstacles.

1. I would have liked to put BFP off the spigot but I didn’t feel up to learning how to solder copper or risk creating new problems from my inexperience.

2. The autofill instructions stated that BFP must be installed 12in above the autofill canister. I didn’t want to undershoot the height since I couldn’t figure out an easy way to measure height difference between the pool deck and the grass off the slope. When I finished, I realized I could approximate height with the brick layers on my house. I’ll lower it later on. For now, I zip-tied the BFP to a black bird feeder pole for support. It may be hard to see in the pictures. I put unions in under the BFP so I can remove it for the winter and cover the pipe ends—maybe with an artificial rock cover or something.

 

[Dirk]

The autofill instructions stated that BFP must be installed 12in above the autofill canister.

That is correct. They're not supposed to be in a box in the dirt. Yours is quite high, and Matt identified the problem with that. Just drive in some PVC pipe as stakes and tie your PVC pipes to those. Use 1" or even 1.5" PVC or ABS and that'll be rigid enough and rot/rust-proof. Cut the bottoms into a V to help with driving them in.

Personally, I don't like unions. If they give you any trouble, next time leave them out. If you have to swap out the BFP, you have plenty of pipe to be able to cut it, replace the BFP and then reassemble using PVC couplers. You could do that a dozen times before you'd run out of room for couplers. Unions have o-rings and o-rings are more prone to failure than PVC glue joints. But for now, it's fine.

Leave the copper alone. That was a good call. I've been sweating copper for decades and still only get a joint right about half the time!

While the suggestions to tie your auto-fill line to your irrigation controller do have some merit, it would have been significant overkill. Again, you made a good call. It'll work fine as is. You might need to turn off that line for some sort of maintenance issue someday, but a twist of the valve will be all that is needed. Unless you're some sort of pariah, a neighbor could do that for you if it had to be done while you're away.

I am all for over-complicating my pool system, I'm pretty much the poster-boy for it around here, but don't recommend it to others. Keep it simple. You did great.

Oh, be sure to insulate the above ground pipes. That'll keep the sun off of them (UV compromises PVC), and it might come in handy if you have a cold-snap before you winterize. There are many ways to do this. Here's one way:

Edit: I first missed your bit about using the unions to remove the BFP. I suppose. I don't know anything about winterizing (where I live we don't), so will defer to your experience with that. But if I had to guess I'd say blowing out the BFP when you blow out that line for winter would have been fine.