Ascorbic Acid Treatment

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C

CrozB

0
Silver Supporter
Jun 1, 2015
17
Annapolis, MD
Hi All,

Been a member since 2015 and with my purchase of the TF-100 kit have managed my pool chemistry without problems...hence not having to post until now.

First my current readings- based on TF-100
Ph- 7.4
FC- 12
CC- 0
TC- 12
CH- 275
TA- 70
CYA- 35

Reading from pool store-
Copper-0
Iron- 0.7

Situation:
Opened pool 5 days ago to a horrid mess of dark green water and algae clumps floating on water. We filled two 5 gallon buckets with algae clumps. We know why...not properly closed or checked during winter.
Readings when opened-
Ph- >8
FC, CC, TC- 0
CH- 150
TA- 50
CYA- <20
I immediately added bleach and liquid muractic acid to SLAM pool and after 6 hours got it blue and clear, not crystal clear, but clear to see bottom. I have staining on the walls (yellow/brown) so I kept the TC level 15-17, brushed like a beast until SWG was ready and then put SWG on 100%. I've been brushing daily and no change. I did the puck test; no change. I did a Vit. C test and got a very slight lightening but looked like it made a bigger stain area. I added oxylate acid and Vit.C to a sock and color lifted a little, but still stain looked bigger in area. My original thought was mustard algae...now I believe I have iron stains. I fill/top off with untreated well water.
I ordered Ascorbic acid and polyquat 60 for an AA treatment; waiting for chlorine to get to 0 naturally.(SWG set at 00) I've read the protocol for AA treatment and feel pretty confident although would like your feedback/opinions/thoughts. Apologies for the length of post- wanted to get in all details to avoid 'posting tag'.
 
More likely copper stains. If they were iron, the vitamin C would have lifted it immediately. Try Jacks Magic Stain ID kit to know for sure.
 
The other option is dirt/tannin entrained calcium scale. You would need to use an acid applicator to see if it etches it and removes the stain.

Can you tell if the area is raised and rough?
 
JoyfulNoise- I was told by pool store I shouldn't use Jacks kit because I have a Diamond Bright finish. I watched a Youtube video.. granules weren't left on stain long. Worried it will eat the DB away. Thoughts? As far as tannins, we have 0 trees in area of pool and there weren't any in pool when opened, and we have a mesh cover. The stained areas are located below skimmers at water line for winter closing and are not raised or rough. Pretty smooth actually from brushing.

Swampwoman- I questioned pool store about the iron level of 0.7 and they blew it off as nothing. Yes, 10 Vit.C tabs crushed and in the toe of a sock. Held it on the stain and scrubbed. Slight lightening. No scale. I just tried again with Vit C tab and barely any change. Took a puck to it again, I can't tell a difference. Also poured oxylate directly on stain and scrubbed...hardly a change.

Any thoughts about using Jacks stain kit on Diamond Bright? I have read it's ok with SWG.
Really appreciate your help! I know there are a lot of people asking questions!
 
Just be careful with stain ID kit and follow the directions carefully. If there are any granular chemicals then simply use a nylon to hold them. Once complete, brush the area thoroughly to distribute the granular chemical and dissolve it.

Often those YouTube warning videos show an extreme circumstance that no one in their right mind would do. Granular chemicals left in one spot...really?? Who does that?? That's the fault of a careless pool owner and not a reason to not use an appropriate stain ID kit.

I'd say you either have copper stains or "dirty" calcium scale. If it's calcium then it can be removed with spot treatments or fine grit polishing sand paper.
 
Cruz, even .3 ppm iron can stain, def .5 ppm and for absolute certain .7 ppm....

The pool store has its head up its you-know-what ;)

Normally, pool store tests underreport iron.

Can you post some pics? Have you tested your well?

Whie I've never heard of iron not reacting to AA, I suspect there's "something" with iron in it going on here, whether its a mix with calcium, or copper, or whatever.
 
I ordered Jacks Stain ID kit. Will be here Friday. By then TF should be low enough to test. (came down today from 12 to 7). Hopefully, we can get this taken care of. I've added some pics of the stain.
1496267785122326291017.jpg
1496267939152244942724.jpg

Thanks for your time and advice.
 
Swampwoman said:
Cruz, even .3 ppm iron can stain, def .5 ppm and for absolute certain .7 ppm....

The pool store has its head up its you-know-what ;)

Normally, pool store tests underreport iron.

Can you post some pics? Have you tested your well?

Whie I've never heard of iron not reacting to AA, I suspect there's "something" with iron in it going on here, whether its a mix with calcium, or copper, or whatever.
Click to expand...

Yep, 0.7ppm. "Not a problem" they said. UGH!! I should have known their results are kooky; I tested TC before going to the pool store. My results were 12. Their results: 7.6 HA!
I haven't tested our well, nut we were getting iron stains in sinks and toilets. We installed a water softener to take care of it. However hubby bypasses the softener to top off pool. Per your suggestion, I'm testing the well!
Thanks so much!
 

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