AquaRite PCB issues

[peter42wilson]

Hello All,

I apologize for the long post in advance. I have searched this forum for my particular issue and cannot seem to find the correct answer, although its very possible I've completely overlooked it. To cut to the chase my Hayward AquaRite 900 SWG system will not allow me to reset average salt. I cannot get past the first step because there is no “click”. I’ll lay out the system I have and the readings that I think would be helpful.

Cell - Hayward TCELL940W (T15) Serial # 1E24100-201366 (about 2 months old, replaced (under warranty because I thought it was the issue))
SWG- AquaRite 900 version 1.5, Serial # 4A20226-104078

Auto to Off
2400
86
25.5
6.33
100P
-3000
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15

Back to Auto
2400
86
25.4
6.28
100P
-3000
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15

Off for 1 min back to Auto
2400
86
25.4
6.28
100P
-3000
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15

The readings are basically the same in all situations.

My issue started this year, the whole system is a little over 3 years old, but I kept getting “CHLOR Low Salt” messages that would then clear (in the next 15-30 min) multiple times a day (sometimes 4-5 times). Combined with this I would sometimes go to the readings and the cell voltage would show dead. After telling my installer this they put in a new cell which is in right now. I thought this would clear the issue but going forward it was obvious that the cell wasn’t producing chlorine, or not at least as much or as often as it should. I would put it on “superchlorinate" sometimes to catch up and it wouldn’t do any good. The actual salt content as read by a K-1766 test kit is 3400ppm consistently, but because the board is showing under 2600, is shutting the cell off and not producing chlorine. I’ve had the new cell tested at Leslies and it passed the test. I have tried more times than I care to admit to reset the average salt but the board does not 'click’ and allow me to go to step 2. The research I've done on other posters that didn't hear the "click" showed it could be a bad thermistor (though I do have the “new board r1.59" with the K4 relay that is supposed to protect it). I’ve looked at the board and I do not see any obvious signs of damage, no burn marks, everything looks in place. I have not however taken the board out to look at the back for any soldering issues. Is this board salvageable? Is it even the board at all? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[TinFoilHat]

It's possible that you just don't have enough salt in the pool to make the cell happy. One thing I've learned over the years with the T-15, it doesn't matter what is supposed to be in the water, if the cell doesn't like it then you have to change it. On top of that though, since you said Super Chlor didn't produce what you expected, what are all or your water test results? We do not espouse using the pool store testing so they may be leading you astray. You need one of the recommended Taylor K-2006C or a TFTestkits TF100 or TFPro with the salt addition in order to get proper readings that YOU can measure. In the mean time if the chlorine is too low you can add liquid chlorine 1/2 gal each day while you wait for a test kit to arrive. PS: TF ships faster.

 

[peter42wilson]

Thanks for the reply. I do measure the salt content with a TFTest kit salt addition. When I measure it myself which I did about an hour ago it read 3400. I’m rather positive there is a correct amount of salt in the pool.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Post all of your water test results. That might explain better what is happening and why it's happening. And you have to remember that the salt cell is for maintaining your chlorine level, not creating it. You may need to get there with liquid and then see what the cell needs to be set at to maintain it. Also, your other water results will determine how well the pool can maintain the chlorine.

 

[peter42wilson]

FC- 2.0 (I have 3 chlorine pucks in to supplement the SWG not working so keep this in mind)
CC- 0.5
PH- 7.5
TA- 80
CYA- 80
CA- 400
Salt- 3400

all tested with TFTestKit

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Nothing can go wrong with your mainboard except when the LED and display are out. Trust your K-1766 test results and focus the troubleshooting on the cell. You have a warranty cell, most likely recycled and degraded. Make sure the AC power on your Aquarite system is off when the pump is off.

The switch is in the Auto position, when should you hear the click?
When the AC power is first applied to a known good system, the mainboard performs the initialization process. The No Flow LED blinks for approx 50 seconds then off. The Chlorinating LED will come on and within 10 seconds, the relay will click. So that's 60 seconds from when you first applied the AC power to the swcg.
Whenever you toggle the switch from Auto, OFF and back to Auto, wait at least 10 seconds for the relay to click.

To reset that average salt reading, sequentially push the diagnostic button until -3000 is on the display. Move the switch to Superchlorinate and back to Auto.
Fyi, a degraded cell always reads lower than the actual salt level. Expect a dying cell if the number plummeted rapidly. On the contrary and based on my experience, a brand-new cell always reads slightly higher from the get-go.

Diagnostic Reading:
The voltage, amp and the instant salinity reading of -3000 on your first set of numbers are impossible to achieve if the switch is in the OFF position.

Other sets of numbers suggested that chlorine is being produced. The Manufacturer's recommended salt level is between 2700-3400 ppm.