Aquarite Panel Question-Diagnostic numbers

[tam87]

Hi all, Looking for someone who might know if this is significant regarding my AquaRite Panel--little history, new pool/SWG Turbo Cell T3, Aquarite panel this summer (July). Had an algae problem for MONTHS chlorine ALWAYS registerd 0. I found this site and I quickly cleared up my pool with SLAM (with bleach) and now know how to maintain with my Taylor kit Pool looks awesome! Heck with the pool store!
I did post this forum post a week or so ago because after a successful SLAM I was back down to 0 FC! and feeling confused? SWG /pump running 8 hrs a day at 50% , then up to 100% output still 0 FC
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/88294-Back-down-to-0-FC!

I SLAM'ed again just to be sure I didn't misread something and passed all 3 tests for sure including overnight loss.
Current readings at noon today(Full sun on pool all day until about 4PM)
FC 5.5
7.6 ph
80 TA
170 CH
CYA 80 ish maybe closer to 90 (I know slightly high)

I currently have my SWG at 100% output for 8 hours and chlorine seems to be dropping faster than I think it should. Im shooting to keep around 6 but cant keep it there without adding bleach. Also, Its been a LONG time since we have had to add salt--It doesn't seem to be using much/any salt.
So...here is my technical question (I do IT for a living so Im very detailed)-In stepped through the diagnostic panel here are my numbers
1. 58-pool temp brrrr
2.cell voltage 29.5
3. cell current 2.24
4. output 100P
5. Insta. salin -3200
6. AL0
7. r1.59 software rev.
8. t-3 which is correct I have the T3 turbo cell.
3200 on panel salt reading

Seems like my voltages/current are off from what the manual I have says are the normal ranges. Does anyone know if this is significant? Just trying to figure out why it seems like we are not producing chlorine.
Manual states that "voltage would be 22.0-25 when generating otherwise 30-35"
current would be "4.5-7.8 when generating, otherwise 0"

I plan on calling the manufacturer if after a week I am still not keeping chlorine-(Im not adding any more bleach currently) in this pool as I know its not organic issue at this point.

 

[tam87]

Update** Just walked out to check on diagnostic numbers again about 30-45 min after upping to 100% output and readings are as follows:
1. temp 58
2 voltage 33
3. current 0
4. 110P
5.instant salinity -0
6.A10

Soooo. That seems to indicate it isn't generating chlorine any longer based on the manual?? But the generating light is green??

 

[JasonLion]

Those diagnostic readings (high voltage, low current) suggest either very cold water, calcium scaling on the cell plates, or the cell is nearing the end of it's lifetime. Calcium scaling can be confirmed/ruled out by visually examining the cell plates. White/chalky residue on the plates means calcium scaling.

In this case I am inclined to suspect that your issue is cold water. SWGs don't work nearly as well as usual when the water is that cold. Of course it could be several things at once, as calcium scaling and and old cell could also be contributing to the issue.

Current of 0 usually means the cell has turned off for some reason, rather than a specific problem. I would ignore that reading for the moment.

 

[tam87]

Thanks for the info! Cell is only 6 months old and we cleaned it 2 weeks ago per manufacturers instruction with mild acid wash. Visually it look s spotless from what we could see.

Im giving it a week and see what my numbers look like.

 

[JamesW]

The T-3 is a fairly small cell (low number of plates). That means less power use and lower amps. Also the colder water reduces the power use.

The other thing to check is that the diagnostic readings have stabilized. When power is first sent to the cell, the amps increase and the volts decrease until they reach their production rates. This usually takes about 30 to 60 seconds.

 

[tam87]

Knew this would happen--Called Goldline Aquarite technical support line to discuss my issue of possible issue with unit as we are again down to 0 free chlorine with running at 50% output for 8 hours a day!! She told me my water chemistry is off and that I likely have phosphates and or nitrates which are consuming all my chlorine. She ran me through the diagnostics on my unit and stated everything is fine and that I need to get my water tested at a pool store and get my chemistry "straightened out" (cough ahem). I do hope there is nothing wrong with the unit, but I cannot understand why I have NO free chlorine at this point. Since I have passed a SLAM and overnight free chlorine test, I feel pretty confident that I don't have organics at this point-- but don't see a way around figuring out what is going on. Looks like I am in the borg and must comply

 

[JamesW]

Try this:

Move switch to off for five minutes.
Turn output to 50%
Move switch to "Auto".
Within about 30 seconds, you should hear a click.
Once you hear the click, wait 60 seconds and then go through and record the diagnostic readings.

Note that neither phosphates nor nitrates "consume" chlorine. Once you complete a slam, you should test a least once per day and maintain fc at a minimum of 7.5% of the cya (7 ppm)for at least a week. Thereafter, you can go as low as 5 % (4.5 ppm).

Your pool is small, so it shouldn't take much chlorine to keep up with the demand unless the fc falls below the minimum. The cold water and the size of the cell are reducing the system output.

For water below 60 f, I would suggest switching to liquid chlorine until the water warms up.

Your previously reported current of 2.24 amps is well within the range for the t-3 cell. The range is 1.3 to 4.5 amps. As long as the amps and volts are within spec, the system is working.

 

[tam87]

Ok Did the above and here are readings:
1- 64
2. 29.4
3. 2.44
4. 51P
5. -3200
6. a1-0
7. r1.58
t-3
*I have been checking the readings throughout the day constantly and many times when I check #3 is 0 and #2 is 33 not sure if that's normal or not...

 

[JamesW]

The water temp is Ok. The volts are a little high. The amps are good. It's normal for the amps to periodically go to 0. Whatever the percentage is set for, that's how much time the unit runs. For example, at 50 %, half of the time the unit will be making chlorine and half of the time it will be not producing. When not producing, the amps are zero and the volts are about 32 - 33.

Everything seems fine with your system. I think that you just need to increase production to maintain the minimum fc level.

I suggest that you do another Slam. Once that's done, maintaint fc at 10 % (9 ppm) for one week, then at 7.5% (7 ppm) for one week and thereafter at a minimum of 5 %.

Note that it's very important to never allow the fc t get below the minimum for your cya.

One odd thing, one software revision shows 1.59 and one shows 1.58. I'm guessing that it's a typo or someone replaced the circuit board?

Note 2: The T-3 is probably undersized for your pool and runtime. A larger cell would have been a better choice. You could control the production by the percentage in 1 % increments at the lower levels.

 

[tam87]

yes it was a typo its 1.59 software.

Thanks so much James!! Will do on the chlorine levels-great suggestion. I guess I just expected too much too soon--learning everyday here! My pool looks so awesome! One of the last times I was at my PB picking up more chemicals a month ago I mentioned how I just wanted my pool to look good and be clear and she stated don't worry no ones pool looks good right now in winter! Ha!

 

[Divin Dave]

I hope you get it worked out tam,
You certainly have the right guys helping you.

and my pool in the middle of winter is blindingly sparkly! So "ha" is right!

yes it was a typo its 1.59 software.

Thanks so much James!! Will do on the chlorine levels-great suggestion. I guess I just expected too much too soon--learning everyday here! My pool looks so awesome! One of the last times I was at my PB picking up more chemicals a month ago I mentioned how I just wanted my pool to look good and be clear and she stated don't worry no ones pool looks good right now in winter! Ha!

 

[tam87]

Just wanted to give an update on this--everything with my SWG seems to be fine! After manually adding bleach for a week or so to keep numbers of FC up based on recommendations in this post my numbers started staying stable and SWG keeping FC where I want it to based on my CYA level. Water looks great and very happy with the end result after all of your advise. No more pool store for us!
Thanks again to everyone!
Happy swimming!!

 

[JamesW]

Good work. Thanks for the update.