Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

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Wow crazy.

Does seem like a lot of that equipment is overpriced ... unfortunately that seems like the norm when insurance is involved ... especially health insurance.

I also would not bother with equipment rental and just deal with the pool when everything is installed, but again maybe that was the insurances idea.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
michelegthompson said:
Anyone know who in Tucson, Arizona can assist in soldering on a new current limiter on my PCB board? Not interested in doing this myself. Thx.
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My soldering skills are lacking ... while I would be willing to try it on my own board (although I may just get a friend to do it). Not sure I would want to mess up yours.

Do you have the parts already? For some liquid refreshment, I may be able to get my buddy to do it ... but we could not warranty the work :wink:
 
Thanks for all the posts. My pool was not reading the salt level correctly (consistently at 2700) and it was sporadically generating chlorine. My 18 year old changed out the current limiter and everything works now, even the salt level. The part seemed fine but the circuit board was discolored around the leads.
Now we can swim!
 
First time blogger on this site. I had the exact symptoms: No Flow, No Power, No Generate. I cleaned the cell, knowing what the problem really was, but did it anyway to eliminate that area. Immediately put chlorine tabs into pool (note tell others in your house what you did, cause they really llike the salt pool and dont like chlorine!) cause you gotta do it. Ordered the Digi-Key Corp. part# 570-1062-ND, +++ take picture of wires before you start+++ unsoldered old one which crumbled into pieces and installed new one. reinstalled circuit board, worked like a champ. Now this wasn't the first this had happened, 3 years ago i did the same thing with same results. a year later the power supply or capacitor went out and so i replaced the card. the moral of the story is: keep a couple of the wafer thinger bobs on hand. Oh, the customer service at Digi is great! I used ground shipping UPS and the whole thing was under $13 for two resistors and shipping had in 3 days, a much better deal than $385+ for a new board.
 
I had the exact same symptoms and soldered in the Digikey.com current limiter component 570-1062-ND on my circuit card as recommended (for $2.64) and everything started working again. There was no outward appearance of failure on the current limiter, but when I soldered on the new one on the circuit board everything worked fine! Thanks for the right information.
 
mcpickle said:
kingbutthd said:
My entire display is out, no lights no display, no nothing, I have power at the main board, could the current limiter be the problem here too?

The board at the connection point of the current limiter is dis-colored...

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Since the display is out, try replacing the 20 amp mini fuse first., Then proceed with replacing the current limiter
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Well I just replaced the current limiter, no luck, still no lights on, display is blank...

What should I check next?

How do I confirm the board is bad, vs display bad, vs transformer bad?

Thanks
 
kingbutthd said:
mcpickle said:
kingbutthd said:
My entire display is out, no lights no display, no nothing, I have power at the main board, could the current limiter be the problem here too?

The board at the connection point of the current limiter is dis-colored...

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Since the display is out, try replacing the 20 amp mini fuse first., Then proceed with replacing the current limiter
Click to expand...


Well I just replaced the current limiter, no luck, still no lights on, display is blank...

What should I check next?

How do I confirm the board is bad, vs display bad, vs transformer bad?

Thanks
Click to expand...

If the display is blank the issue is most likely NOT the inrush regulator (the logic circuts still get power even if the thermistor is bad.) There could be any number of reasons for your problem. Assuming you have confirmed that the little yellow 20A ATO fuse is good, no display and no lights at all suggests:

1. The transformer could be bad - but this is not the most likely issue.
2. One or both of the rectifier bridges (black 2" square blocks attached to the upper right hand of the cabinet) which turn the AC from the transformer into DC could be bad.
3. Another power supply component (like one of the voltage regulators on the PCB) could be bad.
4. Given that you say there is PCB discoloaration where the inrush limter is attached tells me that a high heat / high current condition existed at some point. It is possible that other circuit traces on the back of the PCB could also have been damaged.

In that it sounds like a power supply issue of some sort, a competent electronic technician should be able to troubleshoot the board and find the source of the problem, unless you really want to shell out the $$$$ to replace the controller. That being said, unless you know what you are doing I wouldn't suggest you go probing around on the board while powered up. :!:

Jeff
 
I too, just completed the repair of the circuit board by replacing the Digi-Key Corp. part# 570-1062-ND, current inrush limiter.

This was a straightforward replacement, the circuit board is well labelled,a nd removal and installating was easy, this was my 1st soldering repair and it went just fine. Afterwards the power light came on and the generating light came back on as well.

This forum saved me a ton of money, my cost for parts, etc was arounf $15. Instead of $200+ for new circuit board.

Afterwards I noticed my unit has an internal cooling fan, I live in Arizona, gets very hot here, but the fan was not working, wasnt sure if it only came on at a certain temp or not, so I used a DC volt tester to see if it was getting power, the leads were showing 0 volts, so i tested the red and black wires on the top right of the unit and they were getting 25 volts DC, so I stripped the fan wires and connected to these leads and the fan came on, so I used elec tape and joined the fan wired to these 2 working 24V dc wires and now my fan works great. Strange the the connection for the fan on the circuit board was not working, but oh well I worked around it, now the salt cell is generating and my cooling fan is working.

Thanks again to this forum, it is an invaluable resource.
 

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Well, another unit with all the same symptoms: Diagnostics on/working, but only the "low flow" flashes, then off, no other lights on - all other factors were met for water chemistry and the cell was just cleaned. We did have a power surge/lightening strike within the 24 hour period I notice this problem. I ordered some of the 570-1019-ND since Digi-Key was out/backorderded on the 570-1062. I should get these in a day or so I hope. I live close to the DigiKey business so could just run over there but have to work OT the next few days so just getting them mailed. Good thing I keep bleach on hand for these situations!
 
[attachment=0:92g36hdr]IMAG0654-1.jpg[/attachment:92g36hdr] I received the limiter package from DigiKey already today. The limiter has two plastic sheathes surrounding the wire probe "legs" where it goes into the board - EDIT - I went to remove the limiter and it did crumble. I cut the wire off at the juncture where they connect to the limiter and am now waiting for my "third hand" to arrive so I can solder the new one in. NOTE: you can see on the top probe wire sheath, it is all brown/singed looking. I am wondering if that is evidence of damage from a surge when we had the lightening storm the day this quit working?? Guess we will find out when it's replaced.



EDIT: IT WORKS YAY YAY YAY. My MIL came over, held it in place while I soldered. Put everything back in, powered up and away we go!!! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread - lifesavers all....and of course my local DigiKey down the road. I have several neighbors and relatives working there so I'm gonna tell them to make sure these parts are kept well stocked. :whoot: :cheers: :party:
 

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This is a great forum. I appreciate everyone's input as it has been helpful in solving my own pool issues.

I had the same symptoms...green light would come one for a few seconds then go out. I took the PC board off and saw the contacts for the varistor were dark on the board. I ordered the part from DigiKey and installed it on the board, it even crumbled when I took it off. The problem was it did not solve the issue for me.

I found this site (http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/aqrtestboardoffen.htm) on this forum that helped troubleshoot the issue.

I found with the ohm meter that the even though the fuse was fine that there was no reading on either contact of the fuse socket. I could jiggle it and it would work but not consistently. $2.89 from Radio Shack solved this issue.

My problem was my fuse socket. My salt system is located on my wall in the afternoon sun and for some reason I blew some fuses the year when the afternoon temperature was over 100 degrees. I think I didn't have enough conditioner in the water so it seemed like it struggled to keep up with the chlorine production. I think there was some oxidation inside the socket or some change due to the heat from the high current that blew the fuse.
 
I share the concerns of the poster whose Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator is inoperable. I have 2 wires leading to the unit each with 120 V. The display is blank and the unit is Not generating chlorine.
I cannot locate the fuse and do not know what other tests to run to determine the nature of the problem.
I don't want to have to buy a new unit if I can isolate and replace the component.
Thanks, John
 
I purchased SL32-2R025 limiter for my board but after a closer look, my original thermistor is AS32-2R025. Does anyone know if the one I've purchased will work? Has anyone used one in place of the other?
 
I rechecked visual of the board and noted nothing of significance. checked voltage between the 2 legs at 240V.
Still cannot identify fuses unless they are hidden on the back side of the board. Don't know how to load a pix of the board.
What is the next step in diy? Thanks, John
 
Thanks to all who poster their solutions to the inrush current limiter problem you encountered. Just found the same issue this Sunday and am back up and running Tuesday after replacing the burned up one with the Digikey part# listed in the message strings.

If you have a Philips screw driver, flat blade screw driver, soldering iron, wire cutters and some solder, this is a simple and inexpensive fix to an otherwise costly problem.

I really appreciate that everyone takes the time to inform others of their solutions! What a money and time saver!

Thanks again to all who contributed!
 

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