AquaRite Disgnostics Display

Jimbolo

0
LifeTime Supporter
Feb 3, 2010
59
Hey folks, I hate to be a poor-weather friend :(, but here I am with a problem.

I have a Hayward AquaRite Goldline t-15. Had it for about 6 years. Along about year 1.5, I had to replace the inrush limiter (as I learned to do on this site) and that solved my problem. I don't remember now what the symptoms were then.

I actually have two issues: At some point a few years ago the display went all funky. For instance the default salt display would go to a decimal instead of a normal reading (e.g. 2.9 equals 2900). I tested this out so I knew it to be true. But with no other problems, I was OK with the rest of the display. But now I have a problem.

I have a LCD display but no lights. I have downloaded the service manual and will run the routines tomorrow, but I have little faith in the manual because a) it says nothing about the inrush cap that cost me $2.15 and fixed my problem, and b) because my display does not seem to correspond to the button pushes described in the manual. Here's what I'm showing:

Default display = 3.1 (I know this is salt)
First button push = number starts very low then creeps up to 17, at which time I hear a click and the Power and Generating lights come on. It then creeps higher to 18.6 or so (takes about 20 seconds), at which time there is another click, the Power and Generating lights go off, and the number plummets to very low again. This cycles continuously.
Second button push = 0.0
Third button push = 24P (I know this is the number I have the percent dial set at)
Fourth button push = -0.0
Fifth button push = AL -0
Sixth button push = R1.55 (resistance?)
Seventh button push = t-15 (Cell identifier)

None of the numbers change throughout the cycling in "First button push" above.

Sure would appreciate any help you all can lend. Had to shock the pool while fam was in town when I discovered the problem because the pool got so cloudy.

Thanks All! Jim.
 
The first number is the salt reading in metric. The second reading is temperature, which should also be in metric. I think that you missed temperature. To switch from metric back to standard, go to temperature and move the switch from Auto to SuperChlorinate and back to auto.

If the settings randomly change, it’s usually a loose display board. Removing and reinstalling the display board usually resolves the problem.

The next number is the voltage, the way it’s acting is almost always the inrush limiter.
 
Appreciate the insight! My hunch is also the inrush limiter. That's a 30 minute fix, and luckily when I bought the last one I bought 3. But I'm still stumped by the display numbers. I'm sure I didn't miss temp. I've scrolled through those numbers dozens of times. Possible that I have a weird firmware load? I've normally seen a 5 number rotation listed on this model. Mine has 8, including salt.
 
So I checked my numbers. They're right. Today (before I pulled the board) the second number was 31. Converting to F that comes to about 88. That is close to right. Normally the pool is warmer this time of year, but we've had some rain the last couple of days. So you're (JamesW) probably right about the second number being temp. I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my quandary. But I'd sure love to know what the other numbers are.

Tomorrow at work I'm going to solder in a new inrush limiter. Mine looks shot. A crack most of the way around the outside perimeter. For the benefit of anyone doing part number/name searches on the forum, the markings on the one that fixed this problem the last time (4 years ago), it's AS32, 2R025, 1713. The three numbers are stacked one on top of the other. I know I've seen photos of it on this site the last time I was researching this problem. Used to be about $3 now they want double that (ba$tard$!). Digikey will have the part minus the 1713 suffix. Same part.

So if anyone has any idea of what my previously posted numbers mean (minus the salt, temp, and cell type), I'd love to hear from ya'.

Thanks, Jim.
 
Default display is Average Salinity.
Temperature
Volts should be 30 to 32 when not generating and 24 to 29 when generating.
Amps should be 3.1 – 8.0 amps for a T-15.
Percentage
Instant Salinity.
AL-0 is the name sent to automation.*
R-1.55 is the software revision.
T-15 is the cell type.
__________________________
*AL-0 is AquaRite
AL-1 NatureSoft
AL-2 MineralSprings
AL-3 SmartPure
AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
Aquarite, naturesoft, mineralsprings and smartpure are essentially the same unit with different branding. Hayward does private labels for certain companies. al-0 to al-3 are basically equivalent other than a superficial name change. AL-4 is not about the name, it just changes the default display. AL-5 needs to be selected for the Jandy automation to control the unit properly.
You can use either of the following parts.
Digi-Key Part Number 570-1062-ND. (Manufacturer Part Number SL32 2R025)
Digi-Key Part Number 570-1105-ND. (Manufacturer Part Number AS32 2R025)
The SL32 2R025 is cheaper and easier to install.
 
Do the amps vary for other cell types? That's a pretty wide range just for one cell type, but if so would you please list them? Thanks!

T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps
T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps
T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps
T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps

The range varies based on salinity and water temperature. At low temperature and salinity, the amps will be lower. At high salinity and water temperature, the amps will be higher. The upper limit is usually where the box will shut down and give a high salt light.

The system will produce down to a salinity of 2,400 ppm and a temperature of 51° F. The high salt warning and shutdown is not based on salinity but on amps.
 
No kidding. That's good stuff James! I'm going to post that to the inside of the lid to my controller. I really appreciate the help. I'll let you know how my fix goes when I pop the board back in tonight.
 

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