Aquapure Board Test Reading Slightly Off

[Scowman]

My unit stopped producing chlorine.

I am suspicious that my salinity reading is higher than actual so I tested the board with the procedures below.

The first salinity test was off, but I have not done the salinity testing in the asterisk note so I am skipping that for now.

My temperatures on the second and third test are one degree low on each. Is that really a problem or within some sort of tolerance?

Thanks

Troubleshooting - Front Board Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). Itshould read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C

.If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.

On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with thef ront board.

When the testing and repair is complete reconnect the flow sensor and reset the internal computer (do this by restarting the unit).

*Note: If the the salinity reading has been recalibrated this reading maybe different.

Before condemning the board check salinity setting.

 

[PoolGate]

What error codes were on the unit?

 

[Scowman]

What error codes were on the unit?

None. I suspect the salt level is off.

 

[PoolGate]

None. I suspect the salt level is off.

That would be unusual. Even if AquaPure thought the salt level was high enough to create chlorine (and it wasn't due to a faulty sensor), I think the voltage level would be off enough to throw an error code (with a salt level low enough to not produce any chlorine).

How are you testing salinity? The K-1766 test is best.

 

[Scowman]

Thanks for the feedback. My question is about the temp readings on the test which are one degree low. Do you know if that means the board must be replaced or if one degree is within tolerance

 

[PoolGate]

Thanks for the feedback. My question is about the temp readings on the test which are one degree low. Do you know if that means the board must be replaced or if one degree is within tolerance

I would say 1 degree is nothing to worry about.

 

[Scowman]

I would say 1 degree is nothing to worry about.

Thank you.

I had the water tested at Leslie and salt was 3.9 when AP was showing. 5.1. I manually adjusted the AP to 3.9. Then I put it on boost for 24hrs and no change in chlorine level. Right now I am using tablets to keep it chlorinated.

So why do I not have any chlorine production? I have zero error codes.

I guess I need to test the board, the coil, the sensor and the cell.

Where would you start?

 

[Scowman]

So I found an online manual and I tested the transformer voltage.

I got 83 between the 70 pins and 73 on the 65 pins.

So that seems to be in spec.


S

 

[Scowman]

This test is 20v so that is good.

 

[Scowman]

These are 11.85v and 5v so they are good.

 

[PoolGate]

Thank you.

I had the water tested at Leslie and salt was 3.9 when AP was showing. 5.1. I manually adjusted the AP to 3.9. Then I put it on boost for 24hrs and no change in chlorine level. Right now I am using tablets to keep it chlorinated.

So why do I not have any chlorine production? I have zero error codes.

I guess I need to test the board, the coil, the sensor and the cell.

Where would you start?

I would start with the K-1766 salt test kit. Are you getting a chlorine reading using tablets? It is possible that you have an issue in your water where your chlorine is being immediately consumed.

 

[Scowman]

So I ran these three again (my original tests). The temps came back one degree low and this confirms they are within spec. The salt came in at 2.6 but I did recalibrate it. Not sure how to uncalibrate it now.

Gotta go to work... More tomorrow.

 

[Scowman]

I ran this cell voltage test I I get somewhere between 13 and 17vdc which is way below spec. Is that a board problem or a cell problem? How can I tell?

 

[Scowman]

I would start with the K-1766 salt test kit. Are you getting a chlorine reading using tablets? It is possible that you have an issue in your water where your chlorine is being immediately consumed.

Combined chlorine is barely above zero. If a full day's worth of 100% production is consumed, wouldn't cc go up?

 

[wireform]

You need to be sure it was producing when the test is performed otherwise the numbers won't be there.

 

[wireform]

Combined chlorine is barely above zero. If a full day's worth of 100% production is consumed, wouldn't cc go up?

No, the fact that the chlorine isn't holding is enough of a reason to suspect even before the CC has a value. OCLT is in order.

 

[PoolGate]

Combined chlorine is barely above zero. If a full day's worth of 100% production is consumed, wouldn't cc go up?

There are things that consume chlorine and don't leave CCs. Have you tried boosting your SWG to 100% and taking a sample directly out of the return water stream? If your cell was not producing any chlorine you would get some sort of error on the SWG.

 

[Scowman]

Found the problem. Center electrode corroded. This is the second cell that did that in less than 1 Year service life! What am I doing wrong here? Is Aquapure just junk?

 

[wireform]

Those pins arc and burn off pins sometimes. I use dielectric grease on the pins and keeps this problem away. The grease keeps a solid continuity which minimizes arcing.

 

[wireform]

You're supposed to change the wire at the time you change the cell for that very reason.