Aqua Rite

[LisaDLu]

We had a new motherboard installed in our Aqua Rite Electronic SWG in 2016 and we have installed a new salt cell within the last year. Over the last few months my FC level has been low and I have adjusted the SWG to produce more. Last week my FC was 2.5 and today I couldn't get a reading at all, It was showing zero chlorine. A manual reading of the salt in pool was high at 4000. I am thinking the motherboard of the Aqua Rite has gone bad. How long do they typically last?

 

[ajw22]

Typically the motherboard never lasts as long as you would like it to.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all diagnostic readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
• What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

 

[chlorinatorpro]

Perhaps your CYA level is lower than you think and the chlorine that you are producing is burning out faster than you know. Should be around 70-80ppm especially with hot weather coming up. What duty cycle % were you at a few months and how much did you recently raise it? How long is the pump running for?

 

[LisaDLu]

Salt was measured yesterday at 4000 and the kit is Taylor K1766. Our pump runs 8 hours a day. CYA was at 50 last week so I added some more but still showing 50 yesterday. I have never had FC at 0 but it had been going up and down the last few months, when I put the salt output higher it did raise the FC. Last week I measured FC at 2.5 and yesterday at 0. I have added bleach and a floater with chlorine pellets to the pool while I figure this out. Any advise is appreciated.
The diagnostic readings are when off:
37p
-0.00
AL-4
r 1.59
- 3
0.00
33
31.6
0.00
The diagnostic readings when flipped back to auto:
37p
-0.00
AL-4
r 1.59
-3
HI
33
31.4
0.00
Switching it off then back to auto:
- everything the same as above.

 

[ajw22]

Your diagnostics are not in the sequence I expect.
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

Your system should be set to AL-0 and not AL-4.

Move the switch to auto and momentarily push the diagnostic button to display the Product Name "AL-X". Then move the switch to Superchlorinate and back to auto 3x or until the desired AL-X is shown on the display.

• AL-0 is AquaRite.
• AL-1 NatureSoft.
• AL-2 MineralSprings.
• AL-3 SmartPure.
• AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
• AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
• AL-6 means regular Aquatrol with a flow switch.
• AL-7 means AquaTrol RJ (Return Jet with no flow switch).

I think your board is display the temperature as 33 which looks like a metric temperature. If so reset it to English units. The salt and temperature display can be in English units of ppm and F or changed to Metric units of g/l and C by the following:

1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position.
2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "ºF" appears on the display.
3. Slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto".
4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

Fix your board settings and then show me the diagnostics in the correct sequence,

 

[JamesW]

Change the cell type to T-15.

Display Showing Incorrect Characters or Settings Randomly Change.​

Most likely the display board is not making secure contact with the pins. Reseat the board:[48]

• Turn off power.
• Remove display.
• Reinstall the small display board. It snaps in place on plastic standoff pins. You have to align the metal connection wires into the correct holes in the board.
• Check all diagnostics.

Check to make sure that the T-Cell type is correct in diagnostics. When the pins don't make good contact, the settings randomly change and the screen can get jumbled. If the T-cell type gets on the wrong setting, the salt reading will be wrong.

The Display Board (GLX-PCB-DSP) for the Hayward AquaRite will occasionally fail. Most of the time this is due to an electrical surge. You can find a YouTube video from InyoPools to provide a guide on how to replace the GLX-PCB-DSP - "How To: Replace an AquaRite Display PCB"

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com