Aqua Rite- Power light not on, all other lights work- not generating?

May 22, 2018
3
south lyon
Hi there- First time on posting as I am completely stumped. I have an aqua rite electronic chlorine generator with a t-15 cell.

It is currently running, but the power light does not illuminate, but the other lights do. The check salt light is currently on.

When I first opened the pool this year, I added salt and let it go. I came back the next day and noticed my readings still weren't correct. Then I noticed the power light wasn't on. I troubleshooted it and found out about replacing the thermistor (black disk). I did that and I still have the same problem, so it seemed to be the board. I have replaced the board, but still have the same issue. HELP!

Display readings:
Average Salt Level- 2600
Temperature- 80
Cell Voltage- 26.3
Cell Amperage- 5.30
Desired Output- 100P
Instant Salt Level- -2500
Program Code- AL-0
Main Board Revision- r 1.59
Cell Size- t-15

From everything I have read, those are all normal readings, besides salt which leads me to believe it isn't generating even though the light it on. Is this a cell issue? I cleaned it when opened as well.
 
The power indicator led is probably burned out. That's part of the display board. I wouldn't worry about it.

As long as the volts and amps are good, it's making chlorine. Your numbers for volts and amps are good.

The low salt light comes on at 2,700 ppm but it still produces chlorine. At 2,400 ppm, it stops making chlorine.

If the instant salinity is correct, the cell is good. If the instant salinity is more than 800 ppm below actual, the cell is bad.

I recommend that you get a K-1766 salt test kit to track salinity independently of the box to verify the performance of the cell.

How old is the cell?
 
I just checked and it is 4 years old.

My concern is the salt readings aren't changing if everything else is OK. I have 2 bags of salt in the pool and it hasn't moved. Letting it run to see if that changes with the new board in. I will buy the salt test kit.


The power indicator led is probably burned out. That's part of the display board. I wouldn't worry about it.

As long as the volts and amps are good, it's making chlorine. Your numbers for volts and amps are good.

The low salt light comes on at 2,700 ppm but it still produces chlorine. At 2,400 ppm, it stops making chlorine.

If the instant salinity is correct, the cell is good. If the instant salinity is more than 800 ppm below actual, the cell is bad.

I recommend that you get a K-1766 salt test kit to track salinity independently of the box to verify the performance of the cell.

How old is the cell?
 
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