Any Thoughts Or Suggestions On "Half Closing" A Pool In Winter?

Chuck_Davis

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Aug 6, 2010
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Durham, NC
We don't close our 15,000 gallon in-ground pool in Central North Carolina. We don't have any place for anchors around the full perimeter of the pool, and a cover would destroy the aesthetics of our small yard that backs onto woods. We normally don't experience extreme freezing weather. Extending pump run times and a few other precautions have mostly protected against freeze damage. At most we get a thin coating of ice on the pool.

We do, however, usually lose some tiles over the winter, presumably because of freeze-thaw behind the tiles. This happens mostly on the tighter curves. It's not a huge deal for me to repair the tiles each spring, but a definite PITA. (Note - I have used both E-Z Patch thinset+grout and E-Z Patch silicone rubber adhesive/grout, with similar results. E-Z Patch no longer sells the silicone product.)

I'm thinking of plugging the skimmers with a threaded plug and lowering the water in the pool to about an inch below the tiles. I could do this for the month or two when freezing weather is possible or only when freezing is an immediate threat.

There are complications, however. One of the skimmer valves won't close fully. (Replacing the valve would require major surgery.) The pump and filter are 3 feet above the pool. I don't see a way to fill the skimmer lines with antifreeze or to blow them dry and keep them dry while leaving the rest of the system functioning.

One idea I had was to fill the bottom of the plugged skimmers with antifreeze and trust/hope that the layer of antifreeze combined with the skimmer and skimmer lines being below ground will keep the lines from freezing. I'm not the original owner, however, so I can't be sure how far underground the return lines are buried. Presumably they are at least as deep as the skimmers with an elbow on the bottom. The water in those pipes would not be moving, however.

Another off-the-wall idea would be to screw in a threaded fitting to the skimmer (instead of a plug) and then use some 1.5-inch flex PVC to drop the intake for the "skimmer" into the lowered pool.

I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions that you might have on how to skin this particular cat. I've only maintained pools in California and North Carolina, so maybe some folks from colder climes will have some ideas or can validate/obliterate my ideas. The ultimate goal is to not have tiles coming loose, however that can be accomplished.

Thanks.
 
Completely winterizing would do the trick instead of trying to leave parts running & just isolating the skimmers. I do realize that’s a lot of work for just a couple months though. Many people winterize without using a cover.

One issue with the rigged up suction pipe you mentioned is that it’s an entrapment hazard, even if no one will be using the pool it’s existence is a hazard nonetheless. It would need to have some sort of vgb compliant cover on it (similar to what’s on spa)

Got a pic of the bad valve? Maybe someone will have some ideas on remedies for that or other solutions.
 
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I closed my pool this winter but didn’t cover it. I don’t know if that counts as half closing or not.

But I will warn you about the tiles. The freezing water on top can damage tiles and plaster. I lowered my water level a few inches below the tile, and the ice just damaged my plaster instead. So you may need to just pick your poison in this case. I’d rather have replaced tiles. But we had a lot of ice this year and it’s the first I’ve had any damage.

Side note, keep the silicone away from anything pool related. It’ll prevent grout and mother from sticking well. That’s something to consider when replacing tiles that came loose if they previously had silicone.
 
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I closed my pool this winter but didn’t cover it. I don’t know if that counts as half closing or not.

But I will warn you about the tiles. The freezing water on top can damage tiles and plaster. I lowered my water level a few inches below the tile, and the ice just damaged my plaster instead. So you may need to just pick your poison in this case. I’d rather have replaced tiles. But we had a lot of ice this year and it’s the first I’ve had any damage.

Side note, keep the silicone away from anything pool related. It’ll prevent grout and mother from sticking well. That’s something to consider when replacing tiles that came loose if they previously had silicone.
The pool surface is epoxy. Was your plaster damage from pressure from sheet ice, freeze thaw or something else? Pending further climate change, we don't get much sheet ice.

I haven't been pleased with the performance or appearance of the silicone, which may be why E-Z Patch is no longer selling it. Luckily/unluckily I'll have to dig out and replace the plaster behind the tiles I'm replacing, so any surviving silicone will be removed also.
 
The pool surface is epoxy. Was your plaster damage from pressure from sheet ice, freeze thaw or something else? Pending further climate change, we don't get much sheet ice.

I haven't been pleased with the performance or appearance of the silicone, which may be why E-Z Patch is no longer selling it. Luckily/unluckily I'll have to dig out and replace the plaster behind the tiles I'm replacing, so any surviving silicone will be removed also.
The top layer was frozen solid about 1” thick. The damage was focused on the steps where the water line was close to horizontal plaster surface. I don’t think it was freeze/thaw…it was more of the freeze part and expanding. It would crack epoxy as well though. This winter was colder than past few years with that big freeze that came though.
 
The top layer was frozen solid about 1” thick. The damage was focused on the steps where the water line was close to horizontal plaster surface. I don’t think it was freeze/thaw…it was more of the freeze part and expanding. It would crack epoxy as well though. This winter was colder than past few years with that big freeze that came though.
Colder than "normal" here, also. Our ice never got more than around 1/4" thick, and with the pump running 7x24 never fully froze over. I did, however, forget about the flowmeter and pressure gauge sticking up in the air. Oops.
 
An update for anybody who might find this thread in a search.

I started to implement this idea today. I put in the plugs, got ready to lower the water level, looked down and went "Oh................fudge."

Closing off the skimmer returns would leave me with 2-3 feet of PVC pipe filled with unmoving water between where the returns come up out of the ground and where they connect to the manifold in front of the pump. This would not be a good thing in freezing weather.

I will probably rebuild my pad and plumbing at some point. When I do I will include some sort of drain for the skimmer returns and revisit this idea.
 
An update for anybody who might find this thread in a search.

I started to implement this idea today. I put in the plugs, got ready to lower the water level, looked down and went "Oh................fudge."

Closing off the skimmer returns would leave me with 2-3 feet of PVC pipe filled with unmoving water between where the returns come up out of the ground and where they connect to the manifold in front of the pump. This would not be a good thing in freezing weather.

I will probably rebuild my pad and plumbing at some point. When I do I will include some sort of drain for the skimmer returns and revisit this idea.
So did you decide to stay running or fully winterize?
 
So did you decide to stay running or fully winterize?
For now I'll just leave things running. After the holidays I'll revisit the idea of using flex PVC (with holes drilled in the sides). Our really cold weather usually doesn't hit until January.

(I should have gone back and read my OP from April. It would have reminded me of the potential problems from plugging the skimmers.)
 
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One idea I had was to fill the bottom of the plugged skimmers with antifreeze and trust/hope that the layer of antifreeze combined with the skimmer and skimmer lines being below ground will keep the lines from freezing. I'm not the original owner, however, so I can't be sure how far underground the return lines are buried. Presumably they are at least as deep as the skimmers with an elbow on the bottom. The water in those pipes would not be moving, however.
I don't think the frost line gets below 12" in NC so any buried pipes should not be an issue.

Sounds like the only real issue is the tile line and perhaps the skimmers?

When water temps gets below 40F, I would drain the pool enough to get the water line below the tile line and drain the pad equipment. The skimmers can be protected with a couple of pool noodles or empty plastic bottle (weighted).
 
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