Electronics are what they are... My Hayward automation is generally reliable, but it has a weird glitch sometimes where it thinks the main pump is running, but it really isn't. I have to power cycle the controller for everything to go back to normal. Scared the pants off of me the first time, making me think my pump motor had burned up! Thankfully, the flow sensor kept the salt cell from energizing while it wasn't running.
But to actually answer your question- No. No regrets here, and I converted in April, in the process of repairing some freeze damage. As for the readings being off, my salt test strips say I have 2940 ppm of salt, while the cell reads about 3200. I think there is a way to adjust the reading to more closely match the testing, but it doesn't seem like there's much of a compelling reason to worry about it. If the cell is happy and working, I have just opted to leave it be.
Once I understood what the output percentage settings REALLY meant, it was just a matter of dialing in how much run time I needed for my pool- I didn't bother with trying to calculate it; I just started low and changed it every few days until it was in the zone. And it changes from time to time with use, rain, heat, duck poop events, etc..., but I have opted to still keep some bleach on-hand to dump in when I want a quick elevation of FC.
The only thing I'm still struggling with is the pH rise. But I'm working through that and opting to keep my control point a bit higher than I did before the SWG.