Any SWG convert regrets?

ChiknNutz

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 22, 2010
189
Advance, NC
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I am lured by the SWG ease of use, but am also concerned about relying on something electronic. I am not old or anti-electronics, but am old and hopefully wise enough to appreciate the fragility of electronics. I am a bit old school and like to know I am in control of all aspects related to how the pool works and is maintained. I have read several threads here, albeit probably the small percentage of actual happy SWG users, that indicate issues with the SWG cells or readings being off. With the traditional BBB approach, this is all still pretty manual. Just curious before heading down that path.
 
Summary (don't want to bury the lead): I like the SWCG a lot better than liquid chlorine.

I was finally driven to swcg by the chlorine shortage. Installed June 1 (professional, not DYI). While I've spent a fair amount of time getting the combination of run time and run % that would keep the FC constant, I am still happy. The Pentair IC40 is just connected to a timer, so I manually adjust start/stop times, so long as they fall within one or both of the pump run times. For a while I was challenged to find a balance--I had the FC creeping up .5 a day at 40% or dropping .5 a day at 20%. Didn't want to run the pump long enough for 20% to work, but I think I've got it now with the IC40 running at 40% from 9:30am to 7pm. That seems to be holding at 6ppm--the target for 80ppm CYA which I'm still trying to reach (I'm at 60ppm right now, and my order for Clorox stabilizer from Amazon is backordered.)
 
Electronics are what they are... My Hayward automation is generally reliable, but it has a weird glitch sometimes where it thinks the main pump is running, but it really isn't. I have to power cycle the controller for everything to go back to normal. Scared the pants off of me the first time, making me think my pump motor had burned up! Thankfully, the flow sensor kept the salt cell from energizing while it wasn't running.

But to actually answer your question- No. No regrets here, and I converted in April, in the process of repairing some freeze damage. As for the readings being off, my salt test strips say I have 2940 ppm of salt, while the cell reads about 3200. I think there is a way to adjust the reading to more closely match the testing, but it doesn't seem like there's much of a compelling reason to worry about it. If the cell is happy and working, I have just opted to leave it be.

Once I understood what the output percentage settings REALLY meant, it was just a matter of dialing in how much run time I needed for my pool- I didn't bother with trying to calculate it; I just started low and changed it every few days until it was in the zone. And it changes from time to time with use, rain, heat, duck poop events, etc..., but I have opted to still keep some bleach on-hand to dump in when I want a quick elevation of FC.

The only thing I'm still struggling with is the pH rise. But I'm working through that and opting to keep my control point a bit higher than I did before the SWG.
 
The only thing I'm still struggling with is the pH rise. But I'm working through that and opting to keep my control point a bit higher than I did before the SWG.
And when the PH rises,
Muriatic acid comes to me.
Speaking words of wisdom,
Let it be.

(Dose at 8.2 but only to 7.8)
 
SWCGs can have issues, after all it’s a machine, and it can be frustrating to diagnose a SWCG malfunction. That said, our pool, installed in early 2004, has always had a SWCG. Despite the few issues it’s had over the years, I wouldn’t want to be without it. There’s been a couple times when I had to manually chlorinate (broken pump motor) and it felt like a huge hassle! Yes, the SWCG has spoiled me. 😁

Some key things to remember about SWCGs;

They are best used to maintain proper FC level. If you need to boost FC, use liquid chlorine.
They are merely one way to add FC to the pool. They do not negate the need for regular testing and maintenance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Positive. Be aware if your source water is high in TA you will be learning the subtleties of maintaining your negative CSI or you will become an expert in cleaning your cell plates of calcium scale in no time. If you have a fiberglass or vinyl pool and can keep your CH levels below 250 you have more wiggle room. If high TA is not an issue for you breath easy. My experience so far your experience may be different. :wink:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Saturn94
I ❤️ My SWG’s!
They do my heavy lifting 💪
I have never had the luxury of one that actually has a salinity reading other than a low/high light so I only rely on my testing for that figure. Most are quite happy so long as they are within a general range listed in the manual.
The only quirk/issue I have as far as operation goes is if the power goes out for an extended period, I then need to readjust my timer(s). It’s not that big of a deal as i have to do so for my pump timer anyway but it’s not something i’ve been able to explain to my husband/in laws so if i plan to leave town i always shore my bets with extra chlorine. If i had a fancy pool with actual automation it wouldn’t be an issue but for now i just have dumb mechanical timers 😁
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Nothing about salt is worse than jug-lugging. Plus it wouldn't matter anyway in my case since my wife won't ever let be go back to a non-salt pool.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jeffchap
Plus it wouldn't matter anyway in my case since my wife won't ever let be go back to a non-salt pool.
Same. When I was trouble shooting mine my wife asked what was wrong. I told her I was pretty sure it was dead and I was instantly asked why I hadn’t bought another one yet. No budget thoughts, no ‘can you fix it thoughts’, just BOOM replace a moderately expensive item today.
 
No regrets in 9 years, not one :)

It is an electronic piece of equipment and it must be checked on to make sure everything is still working.. I do that anyway with all my equipment and my pool anyways.. I just walk by, see it making chlorine, I have checked everything all at once because I know the pump is pumping water, the SWG is working and the filter/pump is not leaking.. :)
 
Getting a pH meter has helped, too. I'm not colorblind or anything but interpretation of the color in the 7.8 and up range is dicey.
Oh yeah. I always recommend only looking at the high and low, and be ready to adjust once there. The worst that happens is you adjust a little early but were totally carefree all those times it was a 7.4 ish.

(for the majority of folks that have a CSI already in range, or don’t need to track it like a Hawk)
 
I converted from LC to SWG just before the 2020 season. NO regrets and won't switch back when LC is in surplus. It's amazing just how 'trouble free' my pool has become. I'll roll the dice with electronics.
 
I am lured by the SWG ease of use, but am also concerned about relying on something electronic. I am not old or anti-electronics, but am old and hopefully wise enough to appreciate the fragility of electronics. I am a bit old school and like to know I am in control of all aspects related to how the pool works and is maintained. I have read several threads here, albeit probably the small percentage of actual happy SWG users, that indicate issues with the SWG cells or readings being off. With the traditional BBB approach, this is all still pretty manual. Just curious before heading down that path.
I had two Pentair IC30’s fail. I finally figured out the hot Florida sun was destroying the electronics within a couple of months. I bought a pump cover and put it over the 3rd same model SWG and problem solved. Something to think about. Good luck.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mnmpizza
I am lured by the SWG ease of use, but am also concerned about relying on something electronic. I am not old or anti-electronics, but am old and hopefully wise enough to appreciate the fragility of electronics. I am a bit old school and like to know I am in control of all aspects related to how the pool works and is maintained. I have read several threads here, albeit probably the small percentage of actual happy SWG users, that indicate issues with the SWG cells or readings being off. With the traditional BBB approach, this is all still pretty manual. Just curious before heading down that path.

One more thing, I am happy using the SWG. I converted a few years ago. I still occasionally add some LC when the pool has alot of activity. 4 people and two Labrador Retrievers at times. I always have some LC around.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.