Another dead GFCI breaker - what is a normal lifespan?

In some cases, metal conduit can be used as the equipment grounding conductor.

So, if you have metal conduit that creates a continuous grounding conductor, that might qualify as the EGC.

In any case, it’s time to get and electrician and get everything up to current code.
 
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Yeah agree. A ground wire will need to be run from the subpanel to the main panel. It appears the bonding was ok per code before the 2000s. Minute 13 and beyond in the video make the advantages of the modern grounding very clear.

So for the lifetime of the GFCI breaker, >10 year lifespan should be expected. So it might be the poor connection / overheating you mention or just bad luck. And of course can’t rule out random issues from bad/old wiring…
 
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Someone mentioned overheating due to arcing on a dirty bus. Sun exposure is also a thing. The top of my Aqualink RS box is at the perfect angle to catch full noon sun. When we moved in, some wiring (not power but SWG control) right under that panel was totally bare. Insulation had baked and crumbled. After a year one of the breakers and the pump relay failed. I ended up building a hinged aluminum hood to reflect the sun. Since then no problems.
 
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I think you have a bunch of things working against you.

Heat is an issue if it's in the TX sun

Power surges from the electrical grid during frequent heat waves.

Power surges from big storms.

Funky wiring.

An aged panel.
 
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I think you have a bunch of things working against you.

Heat is an issue if it's in the TX sun

Power surges from the electrical grid during frequent heat waves.

Power surges from big storms.

Funky wiring.

An aged panel.
Fortunately the box doesn’t get sun exposure, but agree with the rest. It’s odd for sure. I’ve never had a breaker die anywhere else in my life…

At least I’ll clean the bus contacts for now. Need to get opinions from a couple electricians.
 
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I had been away from this all day and it blew up! Looking at a few items, I see corrosion on the panel busbars. You could try and clean this up (after turning off power and verifying deenergized).

Also, do you have a picture of the back of the breaker where it connects to the busbar? That would also tell us if it is a bad connection issue due to corrosion.

You could have just gotten a bad breaker. But I am assuming you replaced an older breaker with the same issue.

You also mentioned this happened after raining? So you may potentially actually have a ground fault.

You definitely need to get that sub-panel straightened out. Is the sub-panel on a separate structure (like a detached garage) or attached to the same house as the main panel? If it is a seperate structure, it will need a ground rod AND a ground wire back to main panel.

I recommend you call an electrician as the grounding and bonding requirements of Article 250 of the NEC cannot fully be explained adequately here.
 
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How much current is running through that breaker daily? Wondering if the load being too high is causing early failure. 20A breaker seems kinda small for pool equipment depending on what’s on that line.
 
I had a seal leak that caused water to get into my motor and trip the braker. Myself and a few electricians couldn't figure it out.

It tripped a few random times and then would work for a while and then it started getting more frequent. Then it just wouldn't kick back on.

I hope that's not how problem but figured I'd throw it out there.
 
I realized I forgot to come back after getting an electrician to look at it.

Basically recommendation is to install a grounding rod, install new grounding bar and separate neutrals and grounds.

Install one new ground rod, ground clamp, and grounding conductor for the sub panel. Separate the grounds and neutrals by installing a new grounding bar. purchase and install one new GE thin 20amp 2-pole breaker to separate two double- lugged breakers.
 

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