And here we go...first TF-100 test results

polackoaggie

Bronze Supporter
May 28, 2022
7
San Antonio
Howdy everyone...first post so making it good, I think. Just took over doing pool myself, so before I start throwing things at it and making things worse, I welcome your thoughts.
I am likely going to SWG (Circupool 45) in a month, just need to do a little more research that it will work as expected with conditions and chemical balance of pool. As unreliable as test strips can be (which is why I got the TF-100 to be sure), I have used for 6weeks and results have been in ballpark consistenly.

First results tonight with comments:
  1. Chlorine - 0 to 0.5 (via K-1000 is crystal clear). I figure it has 'something' in it with 2 Trichlor pucks in floater for past couple of weeks and pool is clear (except for possible 20 spots of black algae that's been there for 2 weeks).
  2. PH - 7.8
  3. Free Chlorine=- going with 0.5 (didn't notice pink after 0870, but after 1-2 drops of 0871, it seemed back to crystal clear)
  4. CC = going with 0.5 again (didn't notice pink, until put I 1-2 drops of 0871 and seemed slight change back to clear)
  5. Total Chlorine = 1 (by adding Free Chlorine & CC, am i doing this righ, ha)
  6. Calcium - 650 (was light blue with floating blue bubbles still present)
  7. Alkalinity - 70
  8. CYA - less than 20 (going with 10 as has to have 'something' as pool guy has used trichlor for 2years). After 5-6 trys, the dot was always there, even at a 'glance' after reading several posts about the elusiveness of the test. See next paragraph.
  • On CYA, I will test again tomorrow with back to sunlight/etc/etc, but assuming above is correct it appears CYA is very low (even after pool guy using Trichlor for 2yrs???). So seems adding Stabilizer to get to 20, then continuing to use Trichlor for a month or two isn't going to hurt (I have new 50lb bucket). Plus SWG requires higher CYA amount anyway. Getting liquid chlorine will be a pain here and look to cost $100-200 shipped for a month, again seems i can get by with Trichlor until then.

Background/TMI - after 2years, old pool guy in rural area south of SA sold his business and new one (that is just learning pools from the old guy) went up in price...so am doing it on my own. We live next to a field and gets lots of dust/sand, but little organics as we are clear of the Oak pollen/leaves until next March-April (which is brutal, have a cover to mitigate next year).
Note with new pool guy, have had some algea for first time (intermittently ever 1-2 weeks) the past 8weeks, but pool guy cleared it up quickly by shocking it a couple of times (and putting in some algeacide i am guessing). It has looked fantastic otherwise (especially after using Pentair 920 first time this weekend, woohoo!!). Though as mentioned above, possible black algae that only comes off with scrubbing with brush.
 
but assuming above is correct it appears CYA is very low (even after pool guy using Trichlor for 2yrs???).
That does sound odd, especially with pool tech services for a long time. They only do their "dump & run" tactic, so I would assume the CYA to be extremely high. :scratch: But first things first:
1. Validate that CYA. It drives absolutely everything from this point forward.
2. Your signature shows a TF-100, but you mention using the K-1000. Other than the pH test, the FAS-DPD is the way to go. Be sure those reagents are fresh and reliable. If you have any doubt, order a new TF-100 refill kit now.
3. When you add the R-870 powder for the FC test, it should turn bright pink right away. If it doesn't your FC level is way too low. If you confirm the CYA is low, the sun is taking the FC much too quickly.
4. Regardless of the CYA result, algae is algae and that's never good. If you saw it once and a SLAM Process was not performed fully to completion, it's still in there.
5. I'm in the country on the east side towards Marion/Seguin. No shade on my pool and it has been VERY windy for over 2 weeks. Lots of debris, but when the FC is properly balanced to the CYA per the FC/CYA Levels you can overcome it.

We'll watch for your CYA test results and go from there. Keep us posted.

Welcome to TFP! :wave:

 
Yes sir...main points in blue below. As you can tell, i like to put what i know early on b/c lots going on and through my head, so thanks for bearing with me:

CYA - ok, very confident last night and today's measurement in sunlight (back to it, etc, etc)...it was clearly black at all levels at 'a glance'. Taylor picture examples had it fading 'some'...not here though, black all the way to 20ppm in pool...AND i tested our hot tub and didn't make it halfway to 100 (using dichlor) so know what i am looking for moving forward. I have to drain hot tub anyway after 3months since getting it, so good timing on that and this.

Per pool math, i should add 53oz of dry stabilizer and conditioner (pool mate, CYhydrate, 10-15lb bag) for 20,000 gallon pool. Conservative IMO b/c target is 30 right, if it is at 5 or 10 best case, maybe it gets to 25-30 after checking in a couple of days. Then still thinking go trichlor for a week until i can come up with liquid chlorine to do the SLAM process since algae was showing recently...


I agree and have learned CYA is starting point so not taking measurement for granted...BUT to add anecdotally and TMI since i already typed it before hot tub test:
Given chlorine gets eaten up so quickly and not holding (1 at best, was at 2 once in past 6 weeks using strips that i caught after pool guy), then next day is gone....​
Seems little to no CYA is accurate to protect what little chlorine there is. I know the overnight drop could be a factor, though my chlorine is not high enough to test being/end yet.​
I feel like the pool guy, old and new, didn't add 'much' ongoing...first time had a floater was a week ago in 2yrs (otherwise he did it weekly, never algae until 2months ago...so seems new pool guy was putting even less in). So 'maybe' when overfilling say 1-2 times per month (it happens), plus sun removing some CYA (guess over 90degrees that can happen some), not much chemicals put in and the strips say none, gut says CYA reading with TF100 is correct.​

Chlorine - so after my post last night 14hours ago (short in pool time i take it), i added 2 pucks to skimmer (and 3 to floater, half open) just to get some Chlorine in...and confident my CYA was low.
Doing drop test, water did turn light pink this time (vs clear last night). But after 3 drops (actually 2 right b/c don't count last one, so is 1ppm), it went clear. I added 5 drops of R-0003, no change, so no CC's observed still or 0.5 at best b/c very, very faint hint of pink, but probably what i want to see, ha.


On the K-1000, it was the 'daily' test I did b/c first time, it is the Taylor blue box kit included in the TF100 kit ($84 one), which i just received 2days ago, so all fresh!

More TMI, woohoo!! - our pool has no shade...rarely contaminants to note, but must be 'some' there...except sand (little dirt/soil) from field behind us and Mar-Apr oak pollen/leaves (40oaks front/back, 200bags this year as bumper crop, normally 130, none over pool directly) I knew the old pool guy pretty well and had been doing pools in our area for years, didn't seem to do dump/run but only noticed what new guy was doing more b/c of the algea/cleaning took longer this year....so why thinking if anything, he was little light on chemicals to keep CYA minimal.

And you saw this post vs the conversation on SWG, so all ears either way! I am out of town Fri-Sun so maybe radio silence but sure i can find a way on mobile as motivated on this one to do sooner than later.
 
Sounds like the most important thing you can do (for now) is keep that FC elevated. You mentioned increasing the CYA as well which I'm sure is badly needed as we are expected to get some roaring high temps in the near future. The FC needs the protection from the CYA. Stick close to the FC/CYA Levels and never get shy about adding more chlorine. It should never fall below 3 ppm, and as you increase the CYA, you'll see on that chart the FC should actually be quite a bit higher to avoid algae. Good luck!
 
Update for you TX Splash, any tweaks/thoughts next couple of days based on following?

Good news overall after a weekend trip (left Friday morning, returned this afternoon):

I didn't want to wait with CYA and Chlorine so low...so started SLAM Thursday night, thinking worst case it would be a waste:):
Added CYA with 25 target (it's at 30 now) and Chlorine to 12 target (it's at 10.5 now) with 3 Trichlor pucks in skimmer (none now) and 3 in floater (1.5-ish now). I added just under 2 qts per Pool Math.
Alkalinity is at 50 and PH at 7.2.

I will do an overnight chlorine test tomorrow night and report back...but given I did nothing for two solid days from Fri-Sun, I am expecting it is good, so will see!

Only thing is CH is within recommended at 600, ideal is at 550 so gotta keep an eye on it. Tap is 250, so when refilling it may keep stable or adjust down slightly hopefully, will keep an eye on it.
 
Only thing is CH is within recommended at 600, ideal is at 550 so gotta keep an eye on it. Tap is 250, so when refilling it may keep stable or adjust down slightly hopefully, will keep an eye on it.
CH will likely continue to increase. Refill water of 250 only adds to CH already there. Rain will help it some
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.