Am I testing wrong or what

[NutBall]

Pool person I had moved to another state, I'm now, like, the pool dude, man. His last service on the pool was last Wednesday (8/9)
Anyway...
I've been reading, and reading.
Got a TF-Pro Salt. It'll be easy. Ran my first tests the other day. What?? I logged it but, it is all out of whack. Did the tests again today (8/14), here is what I got:

• FC 9.0
• pH 7.5
• TA 20
• CH 200
• CYA 0
• Salt 3200
• Temp 86F
• CSI -0.94

pH and Salt are good, everything else not so much. I'm confused just due to the water in the pool is beautiful looking. The pool is clean. He normally came on Wednesday to service the pool and was usually here long enough brush, check the water and adjust (20-30 minutes at the most).
Can a pool be good with those numbers?
Am I that bad at performing the tests?
Can the pool water look this good with those numbers?
I'm not sure what to tackle first.

I took my water samples in the spot where I would see him taking the water samples. But this is right between the deep end corner step and the skimmer basket with the pump running. Is this a bad choice?

Oh yeah, he also left me his Oakton CTS1. He said he only used it for salt testing. It gave me a high reading today of 3.82 ppt compared to the TF-Pro test at 3200 (panel on the Hayward controller also showed 3200 today).

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

For the TA test, is it possible you use the wrong sample size/multiplier. For a 25 ml sample, the multiplier is 10. Is it possible you used only a 10 mL sample?

CYA test is pretty straightforward. If you fill the water to the top without losing sight of the black dot, your result is less than 20.

 

[BDY]

For cya - you were looking at it outside with back to sun, at waist level and taking a quick glance at it? (If you stare too long your brain will see a dot)

 

[NutBall]

Pretty sure for the TA I used a 25 ml sample and 10 as the multiplier. I'm a really good instruction follower, or at least I thought I was.
And as for the CYA test, I fill the tube to 100 back to sun down to waist level quick glance, black dot, repeat until the tube is filled to 30, nice black dot. Not even the slightest bit of cloudy. So I entered it as 0. I have done the test several times in a row using the same test solution. And I have done it a few different times as well.
I'm following the instructions (capped red tip bottle) fill with pool water to 7.5 ml mark then add R-0013 to the 15 ml mark. Mix, wait 30 seconds, mix again and pour into tube.
I'm going to give it a rest today. And more than likely run the CYA test again today. And spend my time reading more here.

 

[Mdragger88]

What does the pool guy do/add to your pool?
It’s unlikely that your ta is that low with that ph.
Be sure you’re doing the ta test until there is no further change not just until it goes pink at first.

With virtually no cya you’re likely working your salt cell to death in sunny florida lol.
Get some granular cya - most outdoor swcg pools in your locale need about 70ppm or so of cya.
You’ll wanna start small with the dose so you don’t overshoot your target as the only way to reduce cya is with water exchange.
Aim for 30ppm for now and retest in a couple days then aim for 60ppm - repeat
*Use the sock method to add the cya to the water. Put the prescribed amount (use
PoolMath)
in a tube sock or a skimmer sock/panty hose , tie a knot so it doesn’t escape & hang it infront of a running return away from the pool wall. Squeeze the sock occasionally to release the dissolved cya. You can split the dose between multiple socks/returns if needed.

 

[Mdragger88]

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I'm a really good instruction follower, or at least I thought I was.

Most tests use a 10 mL sample so it's easy to mix up the sample size. Happens frequently.

 

[NutBall]

I'm still getting the same results.
FC 8.5
pH 7.5
TA 20 (25 ml water sample)
CH 225
CYA 0
Salt 3400
Temp 88F
CSI -0.88

The CYA test with 7.5 ml pool water in the red tip bottle and add to the 15 ml mark R-0013, mix, wait 30 seconds, mix again. I hold the tube eye level and fill to each mark then to my waist with back to sun for a quick glance. But the dot it clearly visible all the way to the 30 mark. Not even the slightest bit of hazy/cloudy to it. Could the bottle of R-0013 be bad/old (not blaming TF-TestKits at all. Life happens)

The TA test is fill the rinsed tube to the 25 ml mark. Add 2 drops R-0007, mix. Add 5 drops R-0008, mix. Yup, it is green. Wipe tip of R-0009 with damp paper towel, add first drop mix, no change. Wipe, add second drop, mix, it is red (well a pinkish red), wipe, add third drop, mix, same color, wipe add fourth drop, still same color, wipe, add fifth drop still same. I stopped at that point as there was no discernable change in color.

So color me confused

I've tried to get ahold of my former pool person but they are not answering. But I was not really expecting them to either.

I'm not sure at this point if I should first start by getting my CYA up to at least getting a reading.

 

[Mdragger88]

Get ta up to 40 with baking soda
& cya up to 30 with granular cya (sock method).
Use PoolMath for calculations.

 

[NutBall]

Just got a 10 pound bag of Baking Soda the other day, so I'll start with that tomorrow.
I'll have to get some stabilizer when I am out tomorrow as well.
PoolMath is my current best friend

 

[SoCalPoolFool]

Try testing your tap water TA see if the reagents act differently. I test my tap water often to see what I'm filling my pool with gives me an idea of what adjustments I'll have to make. I use the TF-PRO kit with Speed Stir. I'm on well water and my TA is usually around 13 drops = 130. You could also add a little baking soda to a pool water sample and see if the TA changes.

 

[NutBall]

Just did the TA test on my tap water (city water run through a softener) and got to 8 drops, with no further color change on drop number 9 or 10 for a TA of 80 on my tap water.
Going to get a few gallons of pool water and play mad scientist with that for a bit.

 

[SoCalPoolFool]

Nice. Sounds like the reagents are working. Just gotta get some baking soda and CYA in that pool.

 

[Mdragger88]

Be careful not to overdo the baking soda. Once ta is above 40 you’re good. It will increase as you replenish water.

 

[Mdragger88]

Also, I know you said it looks beautiful & clear but before you go past 30ppm cya do an
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to be sure nothing is brewing (a problem he was maybe covering up?)
Trust your eyes but verify with testing!
While your swg is nicely oversized
it’s odd that in sunny florida your fc was so high with no cya.
& the really low ta with normal ph.
That cell is capable of producing 16ppm in 24 hrs if run at 100% in your pool so maybe that’s why (not sure how you’re running it)
But it’s always better to check/confirm with an oclt before big cya additions.

 

[NutBall]

Currently the pump runs 10 hours (9am-7pm) daily and the cell is set to 60%.

Today I took a water sample to the local pool store, just to see where they would be number wise compared to what I have been getting so far.
Pool Store 8/20
TC 8
FC 8
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 60
CH 275
CYA 0
Salt 3000
TDS 4300 - From what I have read here TDS is pretty irrelevant. So enjoy the number I guess.

Their testing was, umm, well, free. But it is free on purpose. Not blaming them, it was more of a sanity check for me on the CYA. The TA test they did was sloppy, solution changed on the second drop but they added more after it. And I have not added anything to the pool since my last round of tests on the 19th.

My plan of action is to get my TA up first. Pool math tells me 116 ounces baking soda will bring it to 65. I feel I should do this in two or three steps and not as one big addition.
Then go after the CYA. Pool Math says 110 ounces dry stabilizer will take it to 75. And this one also in several steps to not overshoot the desired level.

Or should I just first do the OCLT, and go from there?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The TA test they did was sloppy, solution changed on the second drop but they added more after it.

For the TA test, you're not looking for the first color change. Continue adding drops as long as the color continues to change. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count. You're not necessarily looking for a specific shade of red.

 

[Mdragger88]

Currently the pump runs 10 hours (9am-7pm) daily and the cell is set to 60%.

Today I took a water sample to the local pool store, just to see where they would be number wise compared to what I have been getting so far.
Pool Store 8/20
TC 8
FC 8
CC 0
pH 7.5
TA 60
CH 275
CYA 0
Salt 3000
TDS 4300 - From what I have read here TDS is pretty irrelevant. So enjoy the number I guess.

Their testing was, umm, well, free. But it is free on purpose. Not blaming them, it was more of a sanity check for me on the CYA. The TA test they did was sloppy, solution changed on the second drop but they added more after it. And I have not added anything to the pool since my last round of tests on the 19th.

My plan of action is to get my TA up first. Pool math tells me 116 ounces baking soda will bring it to 65. I feel I should do this in two or three steps and not as one big addition.
Then go after the CYA. Pool Math says 110 ounces dry stabilizer will take it to 75. And this one also in several steps to not overshoot the desired level.

Or should I just first do the OCLT, and go from there?

I would raise ta to around 40-50 now- that should be fine. You can increase it later if needed.
Then get 30ppm of cya in a sock going.
These two can be done in short succession of each other.
Then Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before raising cya further.
The average fc loss in an algae free outdoor uncovered residential pool is 2-5ppm/day with recommended cya levels. More on the high end in the peak of summer. Your swcg is doing a bang up job.
Here’s approximately what your current settings produce

Do you have a screen enclosure or a cover?

 

[NutBall]

For the TA test, you're not looking for the first color change. Continue adding drops as long as the color continues to change. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count. You're not necessarily looking for a specific shade of red.

Okay, that leads me to this question. Which tests are initial color change and which are until no further color change?

Do you have a screen enclosure or a cover?

Screened enclosure.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Okay, that leads me to this question. Which tests are initial color change and which are until no further color change?

The only Taylor pool test I know of that has a different endpoint is the salt test. The endpoint for the salt test is the first change to brick red that holds. The endpoint on other tests is no further color change.