Algae in pool (with results)

[Smyc305]

Hi all, I’ve been experiencing some green algae on the corners of my pool and it’s never happened to me before.

I guess the heat is really stomping down here in south Florida?

Here are my results:
Plaster pool
20290 gallons
Free chlorine 5
CC .5
Total chlorine 5.5
Calcium 375
TA 60
Cya 90
Salt 3200

What was needed to get it back in par was added, except for the chlorine, I just set my SWG to 100%

I have a dolphin active 30 and it runs daily for 2 hours.

Poolmath says according to my CYA it says that my FC should be between 4-12. Would it being at 5 cause that outbreak of algae?

 

[PoolStored]

Poolmath says according to my CYA it says that my FC should be between 4-12. Would it being at 5 cause that outbreak of algae?

It is possible that you dipped at some point.

With visible algae you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

The issue is that, at CYA 90, it is near impossible to SLAM. I would recommend a no-drain water exchange explained here to replace 30% of your water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Smyc305]

It is possible that you dipped at some point.

With visible algae you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

The issue is that, at CYA 90, it is near impossible to SLAM. I would recommend a no-drain water exchange explained here to replace 30% of your water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Fair enough, thank you!

The sun has been eating up the water. I fill it every other day. Will the sun be able to reduce my CYA due to the evaporation? Or is that only achievable by draining then refilling ?

 

[PoolStored]

Will the sun be able to reduce my CYA due to the evaporation?

Nope, just like salt, water has to be removed.

 

[Smyc305]

Nope, just like salt, water has to be removed.

Thanks!!

 

[Smyc305]

Nope, just like salt, water has to be removed.

Hey !

Looks like I will finish my slam tomorrow. There was no visible algae, no loss of chlorine over night and less than .5 CC this morning.

Now my question is, should I wait for FC to go down before bumping up my cya ?

 

[PoolStored]

Nope!

 

[Newdude]

Looks like I will finish my slam tomorrow. There was no visible algae, no loss of chlorine over night and less than .5 CC this morning.

Are you holding an extra day for insurance ?
You passed this morning.

(I'm a HUGE fan of the insurance day FWIW).

Now my question is, should I wait for FC to go down before bumping up my cya ?

CYA can be added at any time there isn't a SLAM going on, or soon to be going on.

Notice the target range for 90 CYA though. I'm no fan of the 5 you were running.

 

[Smyc305]

Are you holding an extra day for insurance ?
You passed this morning.

(I'm a HUGE fan of the insurance day FWIW).



CYA can be added at any time there isn't a SLAM going on, or soon to be going on.

Notice the target range for 90 CYA though. I'm no fan of the 5 you were running.

View attachment 582268

Hi!

Yes I decided to give it an extra day for some extra assurance

I was debating about adding the stabilizer because if I do, wouldn’t it be harder for the FC to go down after getting the CYA back up to 80-90?

I’m more than likely going to the CYA back to 90 since I have a swcg. More than likely I would run the FC in the higher side. Around 10-12 PPM. What do you think?

 

[Newdude]

Yes I decided to give it an extra day for some extra assurance

Maintaining SLAM with the FC holding is waaaaaaaaaay easier than starting a new slam. It's a no brainer. Bravo.

I was debating about adding the stabilizer because if I do, wouldn’t it be harder for the FC to go down after getting the CYA back up to 80-90?

Welp. You have about the harshest UV loss of anybody here and many by you find they need 80 or 90. You can start at 70 and road test it. If you're losing too much FC, then add 10, road test that and reassess.

It may be early enough to not need the max yet.

I’m more than likely going to the CYA back to 90 since I have a swcg. More than likely I would run the FC in the higher side. Around 10-12 PPM. What do you think?

I absolutely LOVE you staying free and clear away from minimum FC.

It will swing some, even with the SWG, so test PH at the low point of the day when FC is below 10. At 10+ the Ph test is invalid. You may have to let the FC drift down a little first if you're a little high at that point.

 

[Smyc305]

Maintaining SLAM with the FC holding is waaaaaaaaaay easier than starting a new slam. It's a no brainer. Bravo.

Welp. You have about the harshest UV loss of anybody here and many by you find they need 80 or 90. You can start at 70 and road test it. If you're losing too much FC, then add 10, road test that and reassess.

It may be early enough to not need the max yet.

I absolutely LOVE you staying free and clear away from minimum FC.

It will swing some, even with the SWG, so test PH at the low point of the day when FC is below 10. At 10+ the Ph test is invalid. You may have to let the FC drift down a little first if you're a little high at that point.

Thank you for the input!

I just added 5 lbs of stabilizer in a sock in front of the skimmer to let it slowly dissolve, it says it’ll be at 80 when it’s fully dissolved.

Low point of the day as in when the sun is setting?

Sorry for all the questions!

 

[Newdude]

Low point of the day as in when the sun is setting?

It depends on when the swg runs in regards to UV loss and the size of the SWG. It might be earlier in the afternoon or even lunchtime. Test a few times on your next day off to find it.