Aeration and Water Temperature

So, I was able to remove one of the returns, and I fashioned a similar water spout. However, I have run into another problem--I can't generate enough pressure to shoot the water high. Even with the pump running at cleaning speed, the pressure is released through pushing more water through the three other returns, so the water only shoots about 10" from the water spout. There are only five 1/16" holes in the PVC pipe, so that should not be an issue. How am I supposed to get the pressure necessary to shoot the water any appreciable height?
 
I had the same problem.

The only way I could get my aeration to work was to put them on every return. Water will seek the easiest path, so as long as you have those other three easier paths, your aerator won't get much pressure. I had great aeration when all the returns were doing it, but no circulation! I was using aeration to raise pH, so it was temporary. The only idea I had come up with to solve this, was to run a separate pump, like a sump pump, to an aerator, and leave the returns alone. But my TA/pH adjusting was done by then, so I never pursued that. The plus to the extra pump idea would have meant I could aerate without having to run the main pump.

Some pools have plumbing that has a valve for every return. Those lucky ones can adjust the pressure to each return separately. But I think most pools have all the returns on the same loop, no separate valves, so we're kinda stuck. I dunno. How are those with aerators shooting a dozen feet in the air getting those to do that?

One possibility... sometimes one return works better than the others, because of where it is in the loop, maybe closer to the pump. You could see if one of the other three returns works better. But if there is one, it won't be by much.

Or possibly... you could fashion a jet for each of the other three returns that constricts their flow. Some PVC gizmo that reduces each to a lesser flow (smaller pipe, cap with a smaller hole, ball valve?), so you'd still be able to get circulation from the other three return, but they'll be reduced such that the aerator receives more pressure.
 
It will certainly not be as good but, in my case, I only had to run the cooler probably 10-12 days out of the whole season....no big deal.

Right, same for me, it was just for some temporary pH adjusting. Seems like PBs, or planning departments, should be more on top of this. Making certain things "standard equipment" depending on location. Special aerator ports/valves for hot states. Auto fillers for dry states. Overflows for wet states. Etc. I'm sure some PBs make these options known in the design phase, though it seems a lot of these things are overlooked until the owner stumbles upon the need after it's too late.
 
Right, same for me, it was just for some temporary pH adjusting. Seems like PBs, or planning departments, should be more on top of this. Making certain things "standard equipment" depending on location. Special aerator ports/valves for hot states. Auto fillers for dry states. Overflows for wet states. Etc. I'm sure some PBs make these options known in the design phase, though it seems a lot of these things are overlooked until the owner stumbles upon the need after it's too late.


They do make them built in. Problem is, they don’t really shoot that far in the air. I guess I could close down the return valve and make it shoot into my neighbors yard, but what does that do for my pool. :rolleyes:
If the misses and I plan on spending the day at the pool, (like this last Saturday) I just go to the store and grab 3-40 pound bags of ice, and toss em in. Drops it down 8-10 degrees pretty quickly. Oh, and also a few sliced up lemons and a jar of maraschino cherries. :mrgreen:
 

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Aeration is the least expensive and VERY effective....but it takes a while to do it.....like continually for a day or so. When water evaporates, it releases heat. So, the longer your water is in the air and the tinier the droplets are (more surface area), the more evaporation occurs.

Evaporation occurs when the air is NOT saturated with water vapor so the most effective cooling does not take place necessarily at night or early morning......evaporation is the fastest and most effective when the temperature and dew point of the air are farthest apart.......frequently in midafternoon. The temp/dewpoint spread (relative humidity) is often the closest together in early morning and evening making evaporation less.

In short, evaporative cooling is almost free and very effective. It takes some time for it to happen and it is only effective if you throw the water as high in the air as possible and in the tinies drops as possible.

Yes, your pH is likely to rise but not as much as you might think.....muriatic is cheap anyway.

Living in Houston I am curious about your statement. My options:
- Run the aerator during the day: Air Temp 100F, Dew Point 73F, Pool Water 90F
- Run the aerator at night: Air Temp 82F, Dew Point 76F, Pool Water 90F

Intuitively running the aerator when the outdoor temp is higher than the pool water seems less effective than running it when the outdoor temp is lower than the pool water. Having tried this multiple times, I get maybe 1-2F additional cooling over night when running the aerators for 12 hours. But based on what you write, I would get better results running it during the day?
 
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