Aerating Pool to raise PH - Hiblow XP40

novice123

Active member
May 11, 2023
37
UK
Pool Size
15200
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi all,

First to get to the point:

1. I removed the L tube that came with my aerator and directly connected the tube I bought to the outlet port. This should be ok right?
2. How do I keep the tube underneath the water when the aerator is on?
3. Is an air stone necessary? All of the air stones I have seen online have such a small outlet to connect to. My fear is if I attached a 16mm tube onto a 4mm tube through the use of reducers would that not adversely affect the longevity of the pump?
4. Is the efficacy of the bubbles affected by how deep or how close to the surface I keep the tube?
5. After turning the pump on, do you think I should be testing PH after every hour/2 hours/3 hours...?? (PH very low atm and TA is OK)

Now the longer version :)

So I have a small inground pool which holds just over 15000 litres of water (15300l approx). Like many in the UK, I seem to be having the problem of very very low PH and "OK" alkalinity: If I use PH plus to balance it, the TA goes too high. Then I lower TA, only for the PH to go down again and repeat. SO through the power of the internet, I learnt that by aerating the water I can raise the PH without raising the TA (although I don't fully quite understand if its the bubbles that raise the PH or the addition of Oxygen: oxygenation). Thus I bought the Hiblow XP40, which is used here for aerating ponds of up to 15000 litres. Although little did I know that it doesn't come with any air line / tubes. So I got in touch it Hiblow who said "The pump comes with a 5/8” ID L tube that fits over the outlet port. You can use a 5/8” OD barb to fit into the L tube and then adapt it to whatever size tubing you need. This is what they are referring to:

PAJH0L.jpg

I then phoned them and the technical department guy informed me I need a 16mm ID tube (which is about 21/22mm OD). Having visited 4 stores, I figured Amazon it is. Today the tube came. This is what I mean:
41vlG+vdyQL._AC_SL1100_.jpg

But guess what? The tube is exactly the same diameter as the L tube shown above. So instead of going through the trouble of using reducers etc...I simply removed the above L tube and directly connected the tube I bought to the outlet port. This should be ok right?

Next I inserted the tube in the pool and turned on the pump but the air tube keeps rising out of the water (surprise surprise). So I used a cable tie and loosely attached the hose onto the pole of the pool brush then lowered the brush into the pool. Now the tube stays underneath the water and I finally have some bubbles. I know this is a dodgy DIY solution but how would I properly ensure the tube stays inside the water?

Also is an air stone necessary? All of the air stones I have seen online have such a small outlet to connect to. My fear is if I attached a 16mm tube onto a 4mm tube through the use of reducers would that not adversely affect the longevity of the pump?

Also is the efficacy of the bubbles affected by how deep or how close to the surface I keep the tube?

I know no one can tell me exactly how long it will take for the PH to rise up to normal levels but the current PH is VERY orange (Orange = very low PH, Red = too high PH). The TA level at the moment is on the higher end of "OK". Do you think I should be testing PH after every hour/2 hours/3 hours...??

Any help would be most welcome.

Thank you :)
 
UK is a bit different that US, so I can give you US answers that may help.

pH rises due to outgassing of CO2 from your pool water. Aeration works with you aerate THE WATER with LOTS of VERY TINY bubbles.

The best method I've found is to get a sump pump and build some PVC tubing on top and create some arms with caps. Drill a bunch of holes in the caps. Put the sump pump in a bucket and put it in the pool and turn it on. Again, lots of tiny bubble from the pool water is what you want. Here is a picture of mine. I can raise pH, in a 30K gallon pool by about .4-.6 in 12 hours.


Sump Pump:
19T430_AS01
 
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So having had the pump running for over 18 hours now (without a diffuser/stone) I can’t see a noticeable change on the testing strips. I know these are really inaccurate so I’ve ordered the pool lab 2.0 (I know it might not be as accurate as the dip tests but that’s the best I can get hold of here and it’s quite easy to use).
 
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Like many in the UK, I seem to be having the problem of very very low PH and "OK" alkalinity: If I use PH plus to balance it, the TA goes too high. Then I lower TA, only for the PH to go down again and repeat.
What is the CH?

What is the CSI?

What is the pool surface?

If the pH is too low, the TA is not "OK".

What is the CYA?

What is the actual pH?

We need actual numbers for everything, not "High", "Low" and "OK".
 
Lol I switched to using high low and ok as that’s the best I can gauge from the strip tests. Once the pool lab is here I can give you some of these figures.

But I meant the green colour for the alkalinity falls within the “ok” range whilst the PH is really low when matched against the chart.
 
Chlorine is zero atm (this is after shocking a few days ago). I haven’t added anymore as I’m busy trying to fix the Ph (from what I read online I’m supposed to fix rhe TA then Ph then Chlorine then stabiliser and then calcium levels)
 
Chlorine is zero atm (this is after shocking a few days ago). I haven’t added anymore as I’m busy trying to fix the Ph (from what I read online I’m supposed to fix rhe TA then Ph then Chlorine then stabiliser and then calcium levels)
Chlorine is KING. Get it in and up now. Is your CYA zero (new water or no CYA for a long time)? Likely need to get some CYA into the pool.

For now, until you get your test, add 5ppm of chlorine a day.
 
Oh really? I thought without balancing TA and Ph I’d just be wasting the chlorine I add no? I was thinking after balancing I’d shock again and then maintain with stabiliser? Then I’d turn the pool heater on.
 
Oh really? I thought without balancing TA and Ph I’d just be wasting the chlorine I add no? I was thinking after balancing I’d shock again and then maintain with stabiliser? Then I’d turn the pool heater on.
Yeah, really. Chlorine is king. No, you won't be wasting it.

Have you read through this...Link-->Pool Care Basics

Chlorine is KING. It is what sanitizes the pool and kills algae. Without it, independent of anything else, you will get algae. We don't "SHOCK" pools regularly. We maintain the right amount of FC on a daily basis to keep pool sanitized. Read this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
pH is super important as low pH can damage equipment.
Unless TA is below 50, it can generally be ignored and managed just by managing pH.
 
Yes I’ve read quite a bit about pool chemistry (can’t guarantee what I’ll remember though). I should add that the pool isn’t being used now and I have a uv sanitizer. Yes I know shocking isn’t done all the time but I thought I’ll redo it properly once my tester is here.
 

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Yes I’ve read quite a bit about pool chemistry (can’t guarantee what I’ll remember though). I should add that the pool isn’t being used now and I have a uv sanitizer. Yes I know shocking isn’t done all the time but I thought I’ll redo it properly once my tester is here.
Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until you get your test kit. Doesn't matter if used or not, pools consume FC daily.

Is this an indoor pool? If not, I'd turn off or remove the UV (which I did with mine...part of the reason I am PoolStored...they sold me one for $1000 before I knew better). It will not really help and will only consume more FC.

Can you fill out your signature? Will help us.
 
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