Advice on which way to proceed with chlorination.

[conmore]

Hi there
I really need some advice on this situation. I’m in Victoria, Australia and inherited my pool when I purchased this home. The chlorinator is a Questachlor Xtra (reverse polarity) producing 30 grams an hour at optimal operation. The chlorinator would be approx 15 years old. I’ve replaced the salt cell 3 times over the journey and the control box is still working fine as far as I can tell. I adjust the output so that it sits halfway on the winter scale in winter and in summer halfway on the summer scale.
Water tests with my pool shop always give the chlorine a tick. The 3rd cell is definitely on the way because with the output adjustment fully clockwise to high the needle is just inside the summer range so my question is: do I just get another replacement cell for around $350-400.00 or purchase a completely new unit?
I’ve researched new units and it’s a minefield. I think I prefer the older style analogue control units with a clock style timer you set for your on and off times. I was looking at an Aussie brand (Saltmate RP20) but the the majority of reviews I’ve read are not favourable at all and the last thing I want is to purchase something that doesn’t have any longevity. I’m open to any advice offered.
Cheers

 

[Charlie Bezzina]

Hi conmore. After 15 years I think your chlorinator has proven itself reliable. I'm quite new to this but I would first check salt levels to eliminate low salt as the cause and also visually inspect the cell innards to eliminate a calcium buildup as the cause.

 

[conmore]

Hi conmore. After 15 years I think your chlorinator has proven itself reliable. I'm quite new to this but I would first check salt levels to eliminate low salt as the cause and also visually inspect the cell innards to eliminate a calcium buildup as the cause.

Hi there
Salt level is fine sitting at 5000ppm and plates are calcium free.. I had the pool water tested just prior to Christmas and the result confirmed my suspicion the cell was just about done.
Cheers.

 

[Brad_C]

I have an older Monarch Chloromatic self cleaning (it'd be 12 years old now). It does what I need, I know how it works and I can fix it if it breaks. In my mind there's considerable value in having a bit of kit you know and can rely on. If it works for you and you're otherwise happy with it, if it were me I'd be replacing the cell. Do all the checks first just to make sure it is the cell.

If my Chloromatic died tomorrow I'd probably buy another one because it's simple (like me) and I understand how it works.

 

[Brad_C]

To add to my previous reply, back in 2019 "upgraded" my Chlorinator from 16g/hr to 24g/hr. I wanted to validate the extra Chlorine production, and I've used this since as a test to ensure the Chlorinator is doing what it says it's doing.

I used filter pressure specs and pump delivery curves to estimate the flow rate and in theory how many times my water turns over per hour. In my case that's 0.568 turnovers/hr. At 24g/hr in a 19kl pool I should see a Chlorine level increase of ~1.26ppm/hr. To achieve this the Chlorine level at the discharge should be ~2.2 ppm higher than that in the pool. I can then do a test on the pool, and on the return water to validate my calculations.

Using a 0.5ppm drop test, I get the resolution I need to be "in the ball park". At 24g/hr my return is ~1.5-2ppm higher than the pool water. At 16g/hr (with a worn cell) it's ~0.5-1ppm.

The calculated vales are 1.48ppm @ 16g and 2.22ppm @ 24g. Lots of error in those calculations but just seeing a significant increase in Chlorine level in the return flow would give you a good indicator it's all working adequately.