A photo of my Hayward Pool Equipment.

offgrid said:
Thanks Mart - What was the cost of the P4 (Product & Installation) - That makes the most sense to stay with Hayward systems

I bought it from pool supply world. Panel + salt cell. The P4 is an electrical sub panel as well so in your case it may not be worth it. Last year, $630 for the P4, $525 for the salt cell.
 
With or without the AquaPod Remote?
Control Pannel here is 800$, Cell between 400 and 700 depending on pool size and doesn't include the installation. Wan't to know how much of a rip-off one get cuz' we speak french...

And if it was sold with the pool. Often affects price to get all at once.

On a sidenote, P4 offer one or two quirks that might not make up for the steeper cost but are worth mentioning.
- You can schedule when your pump's (and your SWCG Cell) will work. If you lose power the system will power back on at the scheduled time.
- It can control a pool, a spa, many heating devices, lights through a remote... even auxilliary systems! (This includes your Christmas Lights outside if plugged inside your P4's inlet) Definitely a gizmo but a few people like to showoff!
- It can accomodate a pH sensor, an ORP sensor and a pH reducer-feeder. Beware not having too much CYA however or it'll overfeed chlorine.

Those quirks, outside the programmable schedule that is, serves little purpose but the programmable schedule is practical for a second house mostly... If I had that kind of money I'd consider them. That also might explain why we sell P4s for a bit more...
 
The P4 is great when you install from scratch. I wanted cell so moving up from a regular SWG to a P4 + SWG wasn't much more, especially considering that it gives me an electrical subpanel in my shed for pool equipment which I can control from the kitchen with the wall unit I've installed in there. It controls the lights as well. I'd say that it's well worth it but not at the regular price that canadian pool stores sell them.

It turns on my heater when needed, will keep the water running for 5 minutes when the heater stops to cool it down, if the temperature drops at night, it will turn on the pump automatically to prevent freeze damage. The only thing missing is a webserver to control it remotely! If I had solar, it would handle it too.. but even the solar guy said that he wouldn't go up my roof because it's too steep!
 
Started her up. Pool Temp is 54 degrees ... I turned on the gas heater to make sure it was working and raised the temp to 56 degrees in about an hour. Will the Salt chlorinator concert the salt to chlorine at that temperature ? I hope I don't damage the cell.
 

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offgrid said:
Started her up. Pool Temp is 54 degrees ... I turned on the gas heater to make sure it was working and raised the temp to 56 degrees in about an hour. Will the Salt chlorinator concert the salt to chlorine at that temperature ? I hope I don't damage the cell.

Seems early to start it up, no? I was tempted to do the same but isn't still frozen underground where the pipes are which means they'll freeze unless the pump is running?
 
mart242 - Our backyard faces south so the water is warming up fast ... the thermometer in the pool (near the surface reads 60 degrees. I emailed Bob to see what he thought and he said if the water is getting towards 60 I could start the pump and run for the 1st 24 hours. Took me a while to get it primed, I think I waited too long to close the lid and it needs the pressure to draw the water through. I'll run the pump only at night during non-peak Hydro rates anyway, I was able to vacuum out the few leaves and the water is crystal clear. I'll post another photo on my blog tomorrow.
 
Anyone know if it is a big problem the antifreeze flows into the pool ? I had it set to backwash, but when I couldn't get the Pump to prime I switched to filter - and then the pump started up - which meant anti-freeze went into the pool . Hopefully it will be well diluted in 20,000 gallons. Will I need some other chemicals to balance it ?
 
offgrid said:
Anyone know if it is a big problem the antifreeze flows into the pool ? I had it set to backwash, but when I couldn't get the Pump to prime I switched to filter - and then the pump started up - which meant anti-freeze went into the pool . Hopefully it will be well diluted in 20,000 gallons. Will I need some other chemicals to balance it ?

As long as you used Pool/RV antifreeze, you should be fine as they are typically non-toxic vs automotive radiator antifreeze.
 
offgrid said:
mart242 - Our backyard faces south so the water is warming up fast ... the thermometer in the pool (near the surface reads 60 degrees. I emailed Bob to see what he thought and he said if the water is getting towards 60 I could start the pump and run for the 1st 24 hours. Took me a while to get it primed, I think I waited too long to close the lid and it needs the pressure to draw the water through. I'll run the pump only at night during non-peak Hydro rates anyway, I was able to vacuum out the few leaves and the water is crystal clear. I'll post another photo on my blog tomorrow.

Hmm, I'll definitely have to remove my cover this week-end then. I doubt my water is at 60 however. To get the pump started, pour a bucket of water in there so it doesn't run dry and close the lid shut, it should get it going.

I'm surprised that bob recommended waiting until the water reached 60 though, I don't see why you couldn't start it earlier
 
mart - Bob said approaching 60. the thermometer in the pool said 60, the diagnostic buttn on the chlorinator said 60 and the thermometer on the gas heater said 55 (which is probably more accurate) - As far as priming the pump - yes I forgot to close the lid.... as soon as I did the water started flowing back and the pump started.
 
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