I am a new member and very glad to have found TFP. For years I have just listened to the people at the pool stores with much confusion. My Taylor test kit is a beautiful thing. I just shut my SWG off a couple days ago. I have had metal corrosion, light blue scale in my cleaner filter bag, metal stains on my liner and insufficient chlorine output even running it at 100% for 12 hours/day. The unit says low/add salt but I checked it and it was 3470. I tried adding 1 bag of salt which took the reading to 3770 with the unit still reading add salt. I have talked to the distributor about the unit and they have told me to check my water for excessive phosphate levels and cannot explain the low salt reading. They said I may need to replace the cell. I'm tired of trying to keep my pool under control using it. I am now using Calcium Hypochlorite unstabilized tablets and granular when I need it and to shock. Since I have switched back I have had to backwash my filter every couple days. Is this related to my switch? My FC is 3-4, Ph 7.5-7.6, TA 100, CH 220-230 and CYA 60. The water is clear. I shock and add some algaecide once a week. I treated the stains with ascorbic acid and have been using a sequestering agent weekly but the stains have returned. Any input would be appreciated.
Switch from Salt Water back to Chlorine
- Thread starter plumber83
- Start date
Sounds like you got the test kit but have not grasped the TFP mentality and method quite yet.
The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS.
If you maintain the correct FC level for your CYA (see the FC/CYA Chart) then there is never a need to weekly "shock" or add algaecides.
Looks like you are letting the FC get too low and that is going to lead to problems.
The TFPC method is really just about understanding your pool’s chemistry and through accurate testing, adding only what the pool NEEDS.
If you maintain the correct FC level for your CYA (see the FC/CYA Chart) then there is never a need to weekly "shock" or add algaecides.
Looks like you are letting the FC get too low and that is going to lead to problems.
I think if you spend a bit more time reading and researching here you will decide to keep the SWCG in place and have it back in working order. if you want to follow the TFPC method the salt water can really help keep the FC levels steady without having to add chlorine manually nearly as often, if at all. Once you get it up to the correct levels you really just need to do your daily tests and won't have as much to do manually.
I started out knowing nothing about taking care of a pool and after about a week of diligent reading of the "pool school" articles I am really starting to understand the water chemistry and what it takes to maintain a pool. I would recommend that you set time aside each day just for reading sticky articles/pool school and testing your pool water until it all starts to "click". I still have a lot to learn, but so far I can say it is certainly worth the effort!
I started out knowing nothing about taking care of a pool and after about a week of diligent reading of the "pool school" articles I am really starting to understand the water chemistry and what it takes to maintain a pool. I would recommend that you set time aside each day just for reading sticky articles/pool school and testing your pool water until it all starts to "click". I still have a lot to learn, but so far I can say it is certainly worth the effort!
There could be a couple of things that make a SWG to read lower salt levels than what they really are. The first one is white scale inside the SWG and can be cleaned off with a 4:1 ration of water to muriatic acid. The second reason to read lower salt is that the cell has worn out and needs to be replaced.
How old is the cell?
How old is the cell?
Just some random thoughts-
1) is your cell is sort of small for that size pool?
2) are you adding metals by using algaecide? Some contain metals
3) Do you want to be adding that much calcium in your vinyl pool? Too much causes scaling.
4) Who told you to "shock" your pool weekly? How does your water look??
1) is your cell is sort of small for that size pool?
2) are you adding metals by using algaecide? Some contain metals
3) Do you want to be adding that much calcium in your vinyl pool? Too much causes scaling.
4) Who told you to "shock" your pool weekly? How does your water look??
The salt cell is in the third season and is a CircuPool RJ45 which I believe is oversized for my pool of 30,000 gallons. I cleaned the cell at the end of last season and again after getting the add salt reading. Lots of questions for me at one time. I just went back to doing what they told me at the pool store. I will begin pool school and get back with any questions. Not sure where to start at this point. Thanks.
You might want to check into your warranty coverage for a new cell as it sounds like it might be at the end of its life. You also might want to install a RJ60 cell as it will last longer and will not need as much on time each day than the RJ45 cell and it's not much more money.