Sorry the acronyms escape me at this point in my understanding....by Br. i mean one the the three basic tests using the OTO receptacle...Cl, pH and.....Br.?
Pool Store scam or truth?
- Thread starter sark76
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Sorry the acronyms escape me at this point in my understanding....by Br. i mean one the the three basic tests using the OTO receptacle...Cl, pH and.....Br.?
That OTO only measures chlorine OR bromine ... unless you have bromine the the water, ignore that scale.
Sounds like you have 0 chlorine in your water which is never good and has no impact of the pH test.
Sounds like you have 0 chlorine in your water which is never good and has no impact of the pH test.
Hey guys! Decided to remove some more water and actully got the cya to around 35. Had the pool store test the water just for SnG since it was free anyway and I needed a skimmer top. My TDS was sill 1700...even after drain of about 40% of my pool...lol. Brought the pH up to around 7.5 and stated to shock process. I'm using a Shock FC level of 14. How long does the process take before the pool starts showing some visual progress in regards to slightly greenish colored water?
It will get better every day. This is where it is very important that you take a pic of something like your steps so we can all see the progress. You will not see it just looking at it every day. It will look like there has not been any progress BUT if you look at the before pics and that days pic you WILL see the difference!
Good luck!
Kim
Good luck!
Kim
That depends of if you have something growing in it or not, algae is not the only reason a pool can turn green, if can also be metals in the water. If it is metals Chlorine may actually make it look worse, this is part of the reason we are big on precision testing, and not taking the dump and pray approach to pool management.
That is a good shot. Now take the same pic tomorrow after it has been SLAMed overnight in to the day.
Kim
Kim
LOL of course it is! I hope you are able to test and add bleach in between the storms!
Kim
Kim
- May 23, 2015
- 24,471
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I agree with what has been said here but I would, in the interest of nit-picking, like to point out that TDS is actually NOT meaningless. While this delves well into the territory of a Deep End post, TDS does have an effect on the calculations of the various water parameters we use here because the equilibrium constants of the various chemical reactions are affected by ionic strength. That is, equilibrium constants have to be corrected for the fact that a high TDS modifies the way chemical reactions behave. A simplistic example of this is freezing point - when you have high TDS, the freezing point of water is depressed by a few degrees and that is a direct results of the ionic compounds in the water modifying the way in which the water molecules behave upon reaching their ideal freezing point (0 celsius). As well, when you have high TDS, the various equilibrium constants used to calculate how FC, CC, TA, etc, vary are affected by TDS. The other way of saying this is that pool water, especially salty pool water, is a non-ideal solution....Sorry, you may now all wade back into the shallow end.....
That all being said, pool stores often use high TDS as a way of scaring people into draining their pools so that they can sell you all the chemicals you "need" to rebalance your water.
That all being said, pool stores often use high TDS as a way of scaring people into draining their pools so that they can sell you all the chemicals you "need" to rebalance your water.
In the interest of nit-picking the nit-picker :joker:
JoyfulNoise is correct. However, when we say a test is meaningless here, it means that it does not really affect what needs to be done as far as we are concerned. We state that TDS, phosphate, and nitrate tests are meaningless. They do have meaning, but their answers don't change any of our advice so we don't pay any attention to them.
JoyfulNoise is correct. However, when we say a test is meaningless here, it means that it does not really affect what needs to be done as far as we are concerned. We state that TDS, phosphate, and nitrate tests are meaningless. They do have meaning, but their answers don't change any of our advice so we don't pay any attention to them.
"That all being said, pool stores often use high TDS as a way of scaring people into draining their pools so that they can sell you all the chemicals you "need" to rebalance your water."
this is what i have come to think was the case. After yesterday when after I told them i wasn't draining the pool any further, they tried to sell me pucks as an alternative to bleach, since bleach was the reason the tds was so high...little did she know this pool has been pucks only for 14+ years. Didn't challenge her on this, didn't buy the pucks either though.
this is what i have come to think was the case. After yesterday when after I told them i wasn't draining the pool any further, they tried to sell me pucks as an alternative to bleach, since bleach was the reason the tds was so high...little did she know this pool has been pucks only for 14+ years. Didn't challenge her on this, didn't buy the pucks either though.
Quick question guys when I eventually do my overnight FC loss of < 1 % ppm...does it have to be a clear night without any rain? I would think that rain would affect this test?
The rain should not affect the OCLT very much ... assuming you are not talking about very heavy rains with debris being washed into the pool.
Note the OCLT looks for less than a 1ppm drop in FC (there is not % as you typed).
Note the OCLT looks for less than a 1ppm drop in FC (there is not % as you typed).
oh yeah...ppm = parts per million? I understand why that wouldn't be a %. and the test is called OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test)? but i still measure FC to test this right?