Raypak Heater problem (flame rollout)

Solution: paid to have repair man fix it....but I watched.

I read in multiple spots that I needed to clean out the unit as it was mostly clogged with spider webs. The problem was that I didn't know how to do that. I watched a video on YouTube that showed someone pulling out the entire burner unit and cleaning out the jets. That struck me like much more than I was capable of, so that's why I paid for a repair. As it turns out that wasn't needed and wasn't done. Other than the normal vacuum out junk steps in the maintenance visit, the repair man pulled out his handy coat hanger. I read others saying that you could clean out the unit with a coat hanger, but I just didn't see where I was supposed to do what I was trying to do. As it turns out, where the jets meet the tubes that distribute the flame, there is a little nook where you can insert a coat hanger and plunge the tube clean. After plunging the first one he pulled out what looked like a lollipop of cobwebs on the end of the hanger.....problem solved. He cleaned the rest and fixed the damage done to the flame rollover sensor and I was back in business.

So, what did we learn? Every year before firing up the heater for the first time, I should use a coat hanger and plunge the tubes to make sure this doesn't happen again.


-Snewo
I also had issues with the flame rollout and had to replace the thermal fuse. I started monitoring the flame and noticed the only time the rollout would occur is during windy days. I contacted Raypak and they are sending me a stack for my vent. I also seen on line they sell a D-2 power vent that integrates with the controls, which seems to me to be the best solution for downdraft flame rollout. Question to those reading this: has anyone installed the power vent and did you have positive results?
 
Power vents are only to be used in places where the system is located indoors and it needs to exhaust to the outside. The free stack you are getting from Raypak is all that you will need.
 
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