Pool store readings different from my Taylor K-2006...which are likely to be correct?

Jul 20, 2014
206
Berks County, PA
Hi,

My store gets a TA of 99; I get 120 with my Taylor kit. Here is what I found most interesting though. With a store TA reading of 99, they want me to add 10 lbs. of sodium bicarbonate to raise the level. I looked at the bag of what they want me to add and calculated that it would bring the TA to 149. Why so high? If indeed my test kit is off and their reading of 99 is accurate, isn't that number still in a satisfactory range? My store always lists 125-150 as being the desired range of TA. Why would you want to bring the TA to the top of the suggested range? My thinking is that, if my TA is at 120 - which is what I get - it surely doesn't need to go any higher. If anything, with the new plaster and constantly having to add pH decreaser, I'm trying to keep the TA down.

Should I plan on going with the results I get or what the store gets? I've been following their advice for 25 years but never had a good test kit before to compare results.

Thanks for any input.
 
+ 1 ^^^^ ALWAYS trust your own testing. You have a good test kit now. There is no reason to let the pool store test your water. You'll only get confused if you compare the two. Pool store advice and ours is very different for the most part. Take our advice !!
 
What he said. Think about this:

Pool STORE (as in a place to sell stuff) does a "free" water test. "Ahhhhhhhh! Your numbers are _,_,_ so you need to BUY this......." Now the "free" water test is not so free after all.

I took my pool water to three different stores and got three different results ranging from needing to spend $56 to $174 depending on which store it was!

See I had just tested my water at home and it was RIGHT where it should be and looked great!

So............your lesson is NO MORE POOL STORE please.

Kim
 
I won't beat the deceased horse too much, pool store results are the antonym of accurate results.

Their reasoning for having you keep your TA is actually a good one though. They assume all of their customers are using trichlor to chlorinate. Since trichlor is acidic the TA levels are constantly dropping. So trichlor users have to keep their TA on the upper range to avoid sudden pH drops. So their advice is actually good this time, if you use trichlor. If you do not use trichlor then don't bother, your pH will more likely drift upwards than downwards, if you are noticing any drift at all.
 
Thanks so much! I am encouraged and gaining confidence about my own testing by what you are telling me. Kimkats.....LOL about the 'free' test not being so free once they give you the print-out! So true! I really believe now that their program skews the test numbers in a way that indicates you should purchase chemicals that you actually might not need. Over the years, I can't even remember how many pounds of TA increaser I was told I needed. Another one is calcium hardness increaser. I will, from now on, really keep an eye on these things. I can calculate how much of whatever I need from my own Taylor test numbers. So, Smykowski - I agree. I'll just go to the store to buy what I need (unless I can find it cheaper online - going to start paying more attention to that also) and not have them do the testing.

That still leads to one remaining question - does the water need to be balanced differently prior to closing? They have often told me that the parameters are somewhat different because of the colder temps during the winter, etc. Or is this just another way of scaring customers into thinking that they'd better get that water tested before they close the pool?
 
Only chemical thing you need to do to close is SLAM at least overnight and optionally can add a polyquat algaecide. I personally skip the algaecide and never have any problems (in fact I still have a decent FC reading in the Spring) but it is a personal choice.

JasonLion wrote an article about it in the Pool School: Closing an In-Ground Pool EDIT: Well darn, kimkats beat me to it.
 
The KEY to closing and opening to a clear pool is to close when the water is cold < 60 degrees and raise the FC to shock level (with/without poly) and then to open before the water gets above 60 degrees as well.
 
Pool store readings different from my Taylor K-2006...which are likely to be ...

I closed my pool, meaning took the pump and filter inside for the winter, when the water temp hit 50 degrees. I brought my FC up to SLAM level which was 16. Winter cover on also.
When I hooked the pump and filter back up after the ice melted, fired up the pump and let it run for an hour. Still had 4 ppm FC and crystal clear water. That was four and half months with no attention to water chemistry. The key ? Water temps !! ?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I'll just go to the store to buy what I need (unless I can find it cheaper online - going to start paying more attention to that also) and not have them do the testing.
There is almost nothing your pool needs that you can't get a a Super WalMart in season. On-Line may be needed for a pool light bulb or something special.

I have stopped going to the pool store entirely.
 
Understand the pool store people testing is not based upon the same maintenance parameters that TFPC is.

The whole chemistry method is different between TFPC and general pool "industry" and TFPC recommends and the pool industry recommends, will almost always be different.

Trust your test kit and your results and the TFP recommended levels and use Pool Math to determine how much of x to put in, and you will be fine.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.