Hello, first post here at TFP!
My wife and I bought our first house and it came with an above ground pool in the backyard. Neighbors said it wasn't opened the summer before we moved in.
After taking some measurements I would venture to guess that the pool is between 10,000 - 15,000 gallons. (Maybe around 13,000) (I'll measure again!) (Curved ends)
Hayward Pump, Hayward sand filter (I just replaced all of the sand with new sand from the pool store and re-piped with 1.5" PVC)
In-line chlorinator coming from the pump into the pool.
One skimmer, one jet.
Chlorine = 3" Jumbo Tabs from L*****'s Pool (Trichloro-s-Triazinerione)
Shock Type = Chlor-Brite from L*****'s Pool (Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinerione Dihydrate)
Soooo I opened the pool and it was a SWAMP (Black water) complete with a ton of frogs that I'm sure our neighbors were fond of (noisy buggers). I scooped leaves for weeks with no end in sight and got the pump running. L******'s Pool told me I needed Green out and a few packets of shock. I used those, water changed to a green, not black. That's where I stayed...
I took them two different water samples and got two completely different results. The first time I bought lots of chemicals, the next time I was told I needed more chemicals to counter act the ones I had put in! So I did a little research and found that I needed my own test kit! One visit I was told my TA was 500ppm to add acid, next visit I was told that must've been a typo "They probably meant to put 50ppm", and that I needed soda ash... That was it for me!
I bought a K-2006 FAS-DPD test kit. All I tested at first was my Ph and my TA. (Looked to be the most important)
My TA was way low so I want to buy some baking soda hoping this would help the PH too... I put too much baking soda and now my TA is kinda high. (I read this is better than too low) (The water is starting to clear up!) (I pointed my jet up into the air to make bubbles and aerate the water because I read that helps bring down TA)
So I finally did a full test and my head is spinning!
I need some help from the experts! What is the first thing to fix? How do I fix it? What chemicals will impact the other values? Etc. Etc. Etc. (I was ready to tear it down the other day!)
FC: 22ppm (high, low, good, bad?)
TC: ?
CC: Unclear on the test procedure, do you use the water from the FC test or new water? FC test water stayed clear, new water didn't turn pink, turned yellow.
PH: 7.2 - 7.4 (Surprised!)
TA: 44ml test took 30 drops (300ppm?). Went to blue then goldish color. Re-did test with 10ml, took 8 drops, so 200ppm?
CH: Red for hardness, 160ppm
CYA: Black dot disappeared at the letters "CYA" on the test. So, 100+ ppm ?
So that's about where I'm at...
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys! Thank you!
My wife and I bought our first house and it came with an above ground pool in the backyard. Neighbors said it wasn't opened the summer before we moved in.
After taking some measurements I would venture to guess that the pool is between 10,000 - 15,000 gallons. (Maybe around 13,000) (I'll measure again!) (Curved ends)
Hayward Pump, Hayward sand filter (I just replaced all of the sand with new sand from the pool store and re-piped with 1.5" PVC)
In-line chlorinator coming from the pump into the pool.
One skimmer, one jet.
Chlorine = 3" Jumbo Tabs from L*****'s Pool (Trichloro-s-Triazinerione)
Shock Type = Chlor-Brite from L*****'s Pool (Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinerione Dihydrate)
Soooo I opened the pool and it was a SWAMP (Black water) complete with a ton of frogs that I'm sure our neighbors were fond of (noisy buggers). I scooped leaves for weeks with no end in sight and got the pump running. L******'s Pool told me I needed Green out and a few packets of shock. I used those, water changed to a green, not black. That's where I stayed...
I took them two different water samples and got two completely different results. The first time I bought lots of chemicals, the next time I was told I needed more chemicals to counter act the ones I had put in! So I did a little research and found that I needed my own test kit! One visit I was told my TA was 500ppm to add acid, next visit I was told that must've been a typo "They probably meant to put 50ppm", and that I needed soda ash... That was it for me!
I bought a K-2006 FAS-DPD test kit. All I tested at first was my Ph and my TA. (Looked to be the most important)
My TA was way low so I want to buy some baking soda hoping this would help the PH too... I put too much baking soda and now my TA is kinda high. (I read this is better than too low) (The water is starting to clear up!) (I pointed my jet up into the air to make bubbles and aerate the water because I read that helps bring down TA)
So I finally did a full test and my head is spinning!
I need some help from the experts! What is the first thing to fix? How do I fix it? What chemicals will impact the other values? Etc. Etc. Etc. (I was ready to tear it down the other day!)
FC: 22ppm (high, low, good, bad?)
TC: ?
CC: Unclear on the test procedure, do you use the water from the FC test or new water? FC test water stayed clear, new water didn't turn pink, turned yellow.
PH: 7.2 - 7.4 (Surprised!)
TA: 44ml test took 30 drops (300ppm?). Went to blue then goldish color. Re-did test with 10ml, took 8 drops, so 200ppm?
CH: Red for hardness, 160ppm
CYA: Black dot disappeared at the letters "CYA" on the test. So, 100+ ppm ?
So that's about where I'm at...
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys! Thank you!