I just tested CH and it is 170. I did not add anything except well water and salt. Does salt increase CH? Or is my well potentially adding CH?
How did my pool get CH
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Is your pool new?
Karma is right, most CH comes from fill, but new plaster/finish will ad some as well. Just for future reference, some Chlorine sources (Calcium Hypochlorite) will add some too.
Karma is right, most CH comes from fill, but new plaster/finish will ad some as well. Just for future reference, some Chlorine sources (Calcium Hypochlorite) will add some too.
OK so my salt seems to be up to 3800ppm according to my SWG. I was going to drain and top up pool, but tested my source water it is 340ppm CH, i new i had hard water but that is a lot is it not?
Now the only way i can drain and top up is to have a truck come out to top up? that is expensive!!
!
Now the only way i can drain and top up is to have a truck come out to top up? that is expensive!!
!
CH of 340 is high... But not unmanageable. My CH stays around 600. You have to keep the pH low to prevent scaling.
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CH should be user 400 if at all possible, but in some areas with very high fill water CH levels that is impossible, and alternative measures need to be taken.
My pool has never been that low on CH since I've owned it!
340 is easily managed. You've got nothing to worry about right now.
Plug all your numbers into poolmath. Don't forget water temperature. Look at CSI down near the bottom. Is it close to zero? Don't worry about it. If it's closer to positive .6, start playing with the numbers on the target side. You can't skimp on FC or CYA or salt, you have no control over CH or temperature, which leaves you with manipulating pH and TA. See what happens when you lower TA to, say, 70. You might find that turns it corrosive! See what happens when pH climbs to 7.8. Play around with it. You might just discover that lowering TA once and keeping a close eye on pH will see you through the summer. Maybe you won't be able to wait until pH rises to 7.8 before you add acid. Maybe you'll just have to keep it below 7.6 or something. Remember, CH will climb over the summer as you replace the evaporated water. The water will go away, the CH will stay behind. From my firsthand experience, when CH hits 800, it starts getting difficult to control things. You're a long, long way from that point.
If it rains during the summer where you live, grab as much of that free, zero-CH water as you can!
340 is easily managed. You've got nothing to worry about right now.
Plug all your numbers into poolmath. Don't forget water temperature. Look at CSI down near the bottom. Is it close to zero? Don't worry about it. If it's closer to positive .6, start playing with the numbers on the target side. You can't skimp on FC or CYA or salt, you have no control over CH or temperature, which leaves you with manipulating pH and TA. See what happens when you lower TA to, say, 70. You might find that turns it corrosive! See what happens when pH climbs to 7.8. Play around with it. You might just discover that lowering TA once and keeping a close eye on pH will see you through the summer. Maybe you won't be able to wait until pH rises to 7.8 before you add acid. Maybe you'll just have to keep it below 7.6 or something. Remember, CH will climb over the summer as you replace the evaporated water. The water will go away, the CH will stay behind. From my firsthand experience, when CH hits 800, it starts getting difficult to control things. You're a long, long way from that point.
If it rains during the summer where you live, grab as much of that free, zero-CH water as you can!
i thought with a vinyl pool you did not need any CH, but Poolmath CSI seems to still indicate you do
There is never any reason to add CH to a vinyl pool.
PoolMath doesn't tell you what to do, it only tells you how to do what you tell it you want to do.
PoolMath doesn't tell you what to do, it only tells you how to do what you tell it you want to do.
A negative CSI is not harmful to a vinyl pool. A positive CSI can allow Calcium scale to form on the surface, and you don't have the option of attacking it with a wire brush. You can be as low as you want, because you won't be leaching Calcium out of the walls the way you would with a plaster pool. But you still need to keep an eye on the positive value.
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