Wiring

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The only concern with a timer is you need to make sure your pump always primes properly and you stay on top of cleaning out the filter basket. I have two strikes against me. I have two maple trees too close to the pool but the previous owner planted them 25+ years ago not thinking about how big they'd get and how many leaves they shed. They're too beautiful to cut down but it requires daily checking to make sure a skimmer or the pump isn't clogged. That and I have an old pool with old equipment and until last year the pump wouldn't always prime properly. Would almost always have to pull the cover and pour water in to prime it. NOT a good candidate for being on a timer as it might start up and not prime and run dry and ruin the pump. Replaced the plastic cover and gasket last year and now it's reliable.
 
After reading a pump manual I realized I will have to change the filter location since the pump is required to be placed below water level. I have a slope on my yard so I will be better to place the pump on the bottom of the slope.
 
Okay. Pool is up. Now its a time to start working on the wiring. After some thinking I decided not to dig and bury the cable under ground. Instead I will run the galvanized piping under my deck right to the pump. What are the rules for that?
 
Can anyone show me a diagram on how to wire the pump? I would start from main breaker box and go to mechanical timer then to the locking receptacle. Can you specify how many wires I need to run from the breaker box to the timer and from timer to the outside receptacle? Also what colors.
Thank You
 
115V, you'll be running three wires from the GFI breaker to the pump or three from the standard breaker to the GFI receptacle to the pump. It's three wires no matter which way you go with the GFI. Black-hot, White-neutral and green-ground.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYybWYSSDRg
Do you have any neighbors with pools where you could go and take a look at their setup ??
 
I do but they do not have a timer. And I do not want to just go and tell them to open the boxes for me.
Can I just put a galvanized pipe in the ground and run green wire from the pump to this pipe? And then run only two wires (black and white) from the circuit breaker?
 

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The pool area should only have a (pair of) ground rod(s) when it has it's own main circuit breaker panel and is a fair distance from the house. You never want a separate ground rod when just running branch circuits.
 
Thanks Jason for all the info. Is it possible that you might now what kind of connectors should I use with the galvanized pipes if I will run them under my deck instead of putting them in the ground? One of my friends told me the connectors are different for inground and above ground . He just don't remember how they are called.
 
You would want to use a weather tite connector. The less expensive connectors just slip on and are usually fixed in place with a set screw. The weather tite style will have a gasket or seal to prevent water infiltration to the connection.
 
When I needed to get power to my Hayward 1 h.p. 120V pump last season I had two needs: the pump and better service to my nearby garage. Fortunately I had an unused 240V line already in my basement on a 40-amp breaker. So I brought that line through the siding of the house near the pool, turned through a water-tight box up to an outdoor breaker box that I could easily pass through on the way to the garage. That box holds a 15-amp breaker that branches off to the outlet below it and the outlet at the other end of the pool area, which is where I located the pump. Both outlets are wired with 14-gauge wire and both have GFCIs, which are less expensive than a GFCI breaker. I run my timer and pump from the one outlet at the end of the 22-foot run.
 
I don't think there is a difference between above ground and inground pool connections. There is a difference between indoor dry area and those used outdoors or in wet areas. The indoor or dry area fittings just have a screw to attach them to the conduit while the outdoor or wet area fittings actually seal to the conduit.
 
Pysiek said:
So why some people have the ground rod next to their pump? Is it for something else?
Click to expand...

Usually because an inspector who does not understand bonding and grounding required it. A ground rod will not clear a fault in a short circuit situation. The ground wire needs to run back to the ground bar in the main panel, or the panel the circuit is being fed from. In the case of a pool, you can not use metal conduit to provide that path either. In fact the ground wire also can not be bare.
 
My neighbor just did his electrical work on the pool and he pounded about 5 ft of galvanized pipe into the ground next to his motor. He told me it is for grounding. But I will do as you guys said. Run green wire back to the circuit panel.
Almost forgot. My filter motor is 115V and 12Amp. So I should be fine with 15Amp breaker in the circuit box?
Also let me get everything cleared here. By consultation with one of the guys in electrical department at my local store, I decided to go with the GFCI that is in line and outside the circuit panel. ( I know I change my mind a lot). I run 3 wires: black(hot),white (neutral) and green (ground). So I will have GFCI , timer and receptacle installed. I run black,white and green wire to the GFCI next black and white to timer next to receptacle. Green wire runs out of gfci straight to pump receptacle. Is that correct?
 

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